So I have just started a huge study of bridgeporting since I would love to do it to my current turbo build anyways I know what the bridge port is and what not, but what I never realized was that you had to cut into your housing!?!?

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/portbp.htm

So how does this effect the wear on your apex seals? and can this cut be done with a dremel or does it need to be machined to perfection? And also if done correctly is there any effects on the housing?

And also can you do a small or mild street port plus the eyebrow or is it recommended to just add the eyebrow?

 

Thats a "j bridge". Standard bp does not require that.

 

spikederailed is right you are confusing a bridgeport with a j port http://www.turborx7.com/portingpictures.htm

 

U guys must do some real conservative bridge cuts. Even using a RB template ull still be notching the housing to get the most out of the port. For a full bridge cut w/notched housings ull generally need 1pc seals, the corner pc of a 2pc seal can drop into the eyebrow and cause total carnage.

 

^ this man speaks the truth.

edit: to answer OP's question....you also make the ports bigger...you don't just "add the eyebrow".

 

Nice healthy bridges will require some notching of the housing. Smaller more conservative bridges may not. But be aware that widening the bridge by going towards the inner of the iron (to avoid notching the housing) starts to move it closer to the end of the side seal. Go to far and you'll end up catching the corner of the side seal, wearing it quickly.

 

OP, what are your goals and plans for this build? What I'm getting at is: are you sure you want a bridge port?

 

well its gonna be a drift car, so I'm gonna want most my power in the high rpms and I would also like power to be a bit more responsive, and I would like right around 350whp

 

and whats required and specified for notching the housing? just match the port? go bigger if so how much bigger? and recommended tools to do the job?

 

350whp isnt gonna happen from a 2rotor n/a.The housings u need to take some measurements to match the notch to the opening of the eyebrow cut, go too far and the coolant seal will lose support. Die grinders or nothing imo.

 

There are plenty of bridgeported NA 13Bs in the 350HP range but realistically, if you are looking to make that kind of power, turbocharging is the only reasonable option.

 

street port + smallish turbo (turblown used to do a t04e 57 compressor and 1.15 p trim hotside) = done.

i just saw a dyno sheet from a BP turbo car, and its more like 450hp

 

Original post shows "Turbo Build" but anyways I wouldn't want any problems with the side seals so I would lean towards notching the housing. Does anyone have pics of the notching? And do you want the shape of the notch to be?

 

WHY do you feel you NEED a bridge port for drifting?

a simple street port and a small turbo will EASILY get you the power you are looking for, and then some. and you're not sacrificing your midrange, which is where you really need power for drifting.

those two combos will give you pretty good results in the response department.

 

agreed^ infact without porting and small decent size turbo for quick response will get you there lol. with a stock TII you can even change the secondary injectors to 720cc and boost approx 13psi, netting you around 250-270whp already =)