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Break in on rebuild..and zero compression

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Old 09-23-14, 09:13 AM
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Break in on rebuild..and zero compression

Funny thing happened along the way to breaking in my rebuilt engine.....lost my front rotor.

Here is the original thread trying to figure out why my engine all the sudden started idling horribly


I don't know how it could have detonated. I was following proper break in driving. When the engine went to crap I was driving 30-35mph and maybe at 3500 rpms. The compression test showed no movement of the dial on any face. It was so dead that I thought maybe it wasn't screwed into the plug hole correctly.

I'm hoping that it's stuck seals and some seafoam will magically fix it all, but not very optimistic.

The reason I'm hopeful about stuck seals is that the engine has been running rich and part of the reason I hadn't driven it much in the year or year and half since I finished the rebuild was I was trying to get track down electrical problems and rich idle. When I pulled the front leading plug for compression test it was cover in wet with fuel and grit. When I saw the wet plug I was hoping I had found my front leading coil wasn't igniting or was firing weak. I'm hoping that a year and a half of barely driving it coupled with a bad coil has caused stuck seals. The same gunk that was on my plug is also on the seals and springs.

I know it's a long shot, but maybe if I pray to the rotary gods it will be true. The optimist in me rationalizes that stuck seals makes more sense than a detonation that took out all three apex seals. The realist in me is kinda thinking that I'm done with rotaries. I don't know that I have it in me to do a third rebuild.
Old 09-23-14, 05:10 PM
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Was the engine ported?
Old 09-23-14, 07:08 PM
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No boost during breakin?
Old 09-23-14, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyD89
Was the engine ported?
No porting, the build is in the signature


Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
No boost during breakin?
I used FC3Spro.com break in procedure which has small amounts of boost after the first 1k miles. I had no boost before 1k and very little boost if ever after 1k miles. I drove the engine with a very light foot. It normally saw nothing close to the max of 5 psi boost FC3SPro.com recommended.

The engine would sit for weeks at a time not being started, which is what has me hopefully it's combination of weak firing coil and stuck seals....but I know that's a long shot.
Old 09-23-14, 08:51 PM
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So it wasnt fully tuned?
Who tuned it?
Old 09-23-14, 08:54 PM
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suspect you need a relax and then some motivation to dive in an pull off the front plate for a looksee

thinks however you may be looking at something like a front stat fail
and now the front rotor is not following its orbit correctly

if it is . a few bearings and an rx8 crank and it will be OK
.. not quite the same disaster as a trashed rotor and housing , just more labor and a longer learning curve
Old 09-23-14, 09:40 PM
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You'll find out. I was maybe thinking a bad port job killed the side seals.
Old 09-23-14, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
So it wasnt fully tuned?
Who tuned it?
I did all the work on it. No one else in my town has any experience to tap knowledge off of. I thought I had timing set, though trailing would never fall in line quite right. And it was never quite right, hence the reason it sat so much between rebuild and now. It was fouling plugs, or that was my best assumption as I've never delt with fouled plugs before. I'd put new plugs in and it would run awesome....but over time the "sound" of the idle and general running would degrade to sounding very "pooty" I had just put new plugs in maybe 30 miles before I lost compression.

I had thought I sorted out some electrical problems and was ready to look at timing again. I had found out that I needed to use an inductive timing light, NOT one that runs on AC power. I just bought the proper timing light and was ready to look at timing again..find out why my plugs were fouling.

The engine had always idled rich since the rebuild. I didn't own a wideband before the rebuild so I don't have a before and after comparison. But AFR would always sit between 10.7 and 11.2ish at idle.

Again, my hopes are that I have a weak firing L1 coil, which will account for the rich idle, fouling plugs. What with it sitting so long between running the engine the same gunk that was on the leading plug is also on my seals and springs.

My father has an immaculate OEM 91 convertible with low miles (less than 70k IIRC) which he drives very little. His stopped turning over and in working on it, I found he had zero compression on one of his rotors. Went from running fine to crap in one cranking of the engine and zero bumps on any face. Starter fluid brought his back to life, coupled with me taking it out redlining it a few times. There are some similarities in that we both drove the cars very little, when we did drive them it was light-footed driving, and the both spontaneously lost compression on all faces.

I was originally going to check my coils and seafoam my engine tomorrow, but things came up. It won't happen till Friday at the earliest.



Originally Posted by bumpstart
suspect you need a relax and then some motivation to dive in an pull off the front plate for a looksee

thinks however you may be looking at something like a front stat fail
and now the front rotor is not following its orbit correctly

if it is . a few bearings and an rx8 crank and it will be OK
.. not quite the same disaster as a trashed rotor and housing , just more labor and a longer learning curve
I get where you are coming from on the step back and recharge kind of thing. When I saw I had zero compression I simply disconnected the battery and closed the hood. I still have my compression tester on the front housing and tools in the engine compartment. When I come and go I simply look at the car with contempt, like a lover who I know is cheating on me, I simply haven't caught her red-handed yet.

No matter what I will at least tear the engine down and find out what, why and when. But I just don't know if I have it in me for another rebuild. This will be the 3rd rebuild on this engine. First rebuild I overheated the engine setting up the Taurus efan. I haven't driven the car regularly in something like 3 years.

I'm in school for a 2nd degree, which I'll have in May and was banking on this rebuild to be a reliable daily driver long enough for me to relocate with a new job. Settle in, ditch my current daily driver (minivan pushing 200k miles) and have the turbo vert as my 3 season car. I simply don't know that I have it in me both financially and simply not having the time to sink into making this 20+ yr old car reliable.

If I can't make a rebuild happen before I move I may simply sit on the car and engine till I have both time and money.....but it's already been 3 years that this car has been mocking me as I leave my house every day.

Originally Posted by TonyD89
You'll find out. I was maybe thinking a bad port job killed the side seals.
Yeah I figured you were thinking just that. I intentionally kept my first rebuild simple as I can.....to reduce the variables on how many things I could screw up.
Old 09-23-14, 10:52 PM
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Sucks man. I know your pain as im in the middle of a rebuild right now. I had to step back and gain some perspective.
Old 09-23-14, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by re-rx7
Sucks man. I know your pain as im in the middle of a rebuild right now. I had to step back and gain some perspective.
Thanks, it was definitely a sucker punch. I thought I was gonna have timing set, possibly add a SAFC 2 or upgrade my Rtek 1.7 to a 2 to get AFR under control. Then spend this winter focusing on paint and be ready for a career related move this spring/summer.

Life said NOPE!!
Old 09-24-14, 06:16 AM
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Jeff in regards to your fathers car my Na convertible would sound like no compression out of nowhere, its a pretty common thing to do.
See whats wrong with your engine but im in the "no boost- not even a little bit" camp until professionally tuned.
Old 09-24-14, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
Jeff in regards to your fathers car my Na convertible would sound like no compression out of nowhere, its a pretty common thing to do.
See whats wrong with your engine but im in the "no boost- not even a little bit" camp until professionally tuned.
Yeah, that's one thing I do not like about the rotary community. The subjective variable on break-in. Some say no boost, some say a little boost, other say for break in simply put the car and jacks and let it idle for a couple hours.

When I first started breaking in the engine I was concerned that I could not drive the car very easily without getting into boost. I have my MBC set for lowest possible setting but the wastegate on the OEM turbo simply couldn't bypass all the pressure. Because of that concern I really only drove the car for short errand runs to get the engine warmed up and see how it's behaving. I was always light-footed, but pressure would rise above atmospheric every so often. I tried to avoid it but didn't freak out if it did.

As far as tuning the car, there aren't any shops that wanted to touch my car. Most mechanics and shops in my town suffered from the stereotypical ,"rotary? no, we don't work on those." One of the good things about relocating for career was that I'd end up in a larger town (probably headed to Indy) where there would be some rotary shops, or at least tuner shops.

With my father's engine, it wasn't just sounding like zero compression. It stopped turning over and after working on it some we ended up compression testing it. It actually had zero compression. If not for me my father would have sold the car as having a blown engine.
Old 09-24-14, 10:24 AM
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I used to turn a pretty good profit buying FCs with "blown engines"
one of them a then 50k mile vert from a guy in chicago that aspec told he needed an engine.
Fast forward 9 years later the guy I sold it to STILL drives it and loves it

break in is one thing, but boosting without a tune is huge no-no. You might get lucky once or twice but a rotary is pretty sensitive under boost when not tuned properly. It can literally be a single trip out with the car to do the damage.
If there is no one to tune your car its a big problem you need to either trailer it out of town or maybe have a group tuning session with some other rotary guys and fly someone in
Old 09-24-14, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
I used to turn a pretty good profit buying FCs with "blown engines"
one of them a then 50k mile vert from a guy in chicago that aspec told he needed an engine.
Fast forward 9 years later the guy I sold it to STILL drives it and loves it

break in is one thing, but boosting without a tune is huge no-no. You might get lucky once or twice but a rotary is pretty sensitive under boost when not tuned properly. It can literally be a single trip out with the car to do the damage.
If there is no one to tune your car its a big problem you need to either trailer it out of town or maybe have a group tuning session with some other rotary guys and fly someone in
Well Rtek 1.7 don't have any user controls outside of OEM. So when I speak of tuning I'm saying simply set timing, TPS, etc.
Old 03-21-15, 04:00 PM
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I hadn't opened the hood since my last post in this thread. I've both been disgusted and busy so the car has sat, with the compression tester still in the plug hole.

I brought a scope home from work and stuck it in the front rotor and found a gouge on one of the rotor faces. Looks like I'm either rebuilding or parting out. Haven't decided which yet.
Old 03-21-15, 06:48 PM
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Need to not give up and dive in. Learn from mistakes and move forward. If that can't be done, move on and let some one willing breathe life backing into it.
Old 03-21-15, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by archaphil
Need to not give up and dive in. Learn from mistakes and move forward. If that can't be done, move on and let some one willing breathe life backing into it.
If I don't stick with it then I'll probably part it out. It's probably worth more in pieces than as a whole.
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