Break Piston Any Farther?
#1
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Break Piston Any Farther?
I was installing new pads for the rear on my GTUs and have come across a problem. I cant make the pads fit because its too thick. Yes, I have pushed the piston as far as it goes with a c-clamp.
My main question is...does the piston normally go back farther (pic)? and my other question is are the non ventilated discs thinner than the ventilated? I was thinking maybe i got the wrong pads for the non ventilated brakes.
My main question is...does the piston normally go back farther (pic)? and my other question is are the non ventilated discs thinner than the ventilated? I was thinking maybe i got the wrong pads for the non ventilated brakes.
#2
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Personaly it looks like it should be pushed in more.Put something across the piston hole like an old pad then c-clamp it again.As for the thickness of the rotors,I don't know**
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#6
I wish I was driving!
Jesus christ, 4 posts and ALL of them terrible.
If you have no clue as to what you are talking about, for the love of vagina, DON'T POST!
The REAR pistons cannot be retracted using a c-clamp, due to the self-adjusting mechanical pin for the parking brake. The rear piston must be rotated back into place. They make a tool to do this, although you can simply use needle-nose pliers.
Looking directly at the piston face, grip the two notches in the face with your pliers, and rotate the piston back into position by turning it clockwise. A c-clamp will do nothing but damage the caliper.
The brake pads are identical between vented and non-vented rear disks.
If you have no clue as to what you are talking about, for the love of vagina, DON'T POST!
The REAR pistons cannot be retracted using a c-clamp, due to the self-adjusting mechanical pin for the parking brake. The rear piston must be rotated back into place. They make a tool to do this, although you can simply use needle-nose pliers.
Looking directly at the piston face, grip the two notches in the face with your pliers, and rotate the piston back into position by turning it clockwise. A c-clamp will do nothing but damage the caliper.
The brake pads are identical between vented and non-vented rear disks.
#7
Canned. I got CORNED!
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+1 to THAT!
I see this question at least once a month!!! Blah blah blah, they won't go in!
How about searching, buying a haynes manual, or checking the FSM?
Wait, I got a better idea! **** up your parking brake with brute force!
I see this question at least once a month!!! Blah blah blah, they won't go in!
How about searching, buying a haynes manual, or checking the FSM?
Wait, I got a better idea! **** up your parking brake with brute force!
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#8
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Yeah, I used needle nose pliers to rotate it first. But since i couldnt rotate it any further I used a c clamp. Seems like thats as far as it goes.
and shaolin, im asking if the piston in the pic should go back any further to get some reassurance, dont be ******* replying if youre gona criticize.
and shaolin, im asking if the piston in the pic should go back any further to get some reassurance, dont be ******* replying if youre gona criticize.
#9
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Well, I must say I got pretty pissed too, since no mention was made that the piston had been turned and a few posters didn't mention it too...but nevermind. If you had pushed it that far without turning, something would be broke by now.
The piston has to go in a little more - the face has to be basically in line with the edge. If it was tuning easily, you'll know when it bottoms out - if it wasn't, apply more torque (turning force) to make sure it doesn't turn any more.
The vented disk is in fact thicker. (...goes to open FSM and parts fiche PDF...) The pads should be the same. So getting the piston back a little more should be the only problem.
The piston has to go in a little more - the face has to be basically in line with the edge. If it was tuning easily, you'll know when it bottoms out - if it wasn't, apply more torque (turning force) to make sure it doesn't turn any more.
The vented disk is in fact thicker. (...goes to open FSM and parts fiche PDF...) The pads should be the same. So getting the piston back a little more should be the only problem.
#11
IMHO, buy a bigger C-Clamp, and steer the course Takahashi Ryosuke !
If you can't spell brakes...you shouldn't be doing them.
#17
I wish I was driving!
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
#18
I wish I was driving!
Not required. When the brake pedal isn't depressed, the fluid is free to travel back into the master cylinder. If there is brake pressure to be relieved greater than 2 psi, your rear calipers will be dragging.
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