I was installing new pads for the rear on my GTUs and have come across a problem. I cant make the pads fit because its too thick. Yes, I have pushed the piston as far as it goes with a c-clamp.

My main question is...does the piston normally go back farther (pic)? and my other question is are the non ventilated discs thinner than the ventilated? I was thinking maybe i got the wrong pads for the non ventilated brakes.

 

Personaly it looks like it should be pushed in more.Put something across the piston hole like an old pad then c-clamp it again.As for the thickness of the rotors,I don't know**

 

yeah i think it goes in a little further than that

 

The piston should sit flush into the caliper, don't push it any farther than that, but flush it should be

 

+ 1 use old pad and c clamp it

 

Jesus christ, 4 posts and ALL of them terrible.
If you have no clue as to what you are talking about, for the love of vagina, DON'T POST!

The REAR pistons cannot be retracted using a c-clamp, due to the self-adjusting mechanical pin for the parking brake. The rear piston must be rotated back into place. They make a tool to do this, although you can simply use needle-nose pliers.
Looking directly at the piston face, grip the two notches in the face with your pliers, and rotate the piston back into position by turning it clockwise. A c-clamp will do nothing but damage the caliper.

The brake pads are identical between vented and non-vented rear disks.

 

+1 to THAT!

I see this question at least once a month!!! Blah blah blah, they won't go in!

How about searching, buying a haynes manual, or checking the FSM?

Wait, I got a better idea! **** up your parking brake with brute force!

 

Yeah, I used needle nose pliers to rotate it first. But since i couldnt rotate it any further I used a c clamp. Seems like thats as far as it goes.

and shaolin, im asking if the piston in the pic should go back any further to get some reassurance, dont be ******* replying if youre gona criticize.

 

Well, I must say I got pretty pissed too, since no mention was made that the piston had been turned and a few posters didn't mention it too...but nevermind. If you had pushed it that far without turning, something would be broke by now.

The piston has to go in a little more - the face has to be basically in line with the edge. If it was tuning easily, you'll know when it bottoms out - if it wasn't, apply more torque (turning force) to make sure it doesn't turn any more.

The vented disk is in fact thicker. (...goes to open FSM and parts fiche PDF...) The pads should be the same. So getting the piston back a little more should be the only problem.

 

......WOW, i knew about the piston thing and i havent even done the brakes on my 7 yet.

 

Easy there Scathcart, clearly his post is asking how to _BREAK_ the piston further. It seems he is on the right track. but he can break it further.

IMHO, buy a bigger C-Clamp, and steer the course Takahashi Ryosuke !




If you can't spell brakes...you shouldn't be doing them.

 

LOL. everytime i read the thread title it bugs me knowing the content inside.

I'm going to assume and pray, english is not his native language, and if it is, please dont tell me it is. It will most likely just bug me even more.

 

Lol.

Make Sure You Line Up The Tab Popping Out Of The Tab With The Slots In The Piston Also!!!!

 

Go to an autoparts store and buy the right tool for the job. They look like this most of the time:



Use whatever set of notches hold the piston best, put your 3/8ths inch extension and rachet on and twist till it's all the way in.

 

I have this tool, and I hate it because the cube is sometimes too big and catches on the caliper casting (well at least on the wife's Nissan). Haven't used it on the RX-7 yet - is there enough clearance?

 

Another thing to try - as I had to do on my old lude when the piston wouldn't screw-down any further: Open the brake-bleeder and relieve the pressure.

 

That tool sucks. If you're going to buy a tool to do this, buy this one:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101

 

Not required. When the brake pedal isn't depressed, the fluid is free to travel back into the master cylinder. If there is brake pressure to be relieved greater than 2 psi, your rear calipers will be dragging.