ok ok, i have nevr installed break pads before... was scared of it b/c it is a major safety component.

Anywho, how do i go abouts doing so? Do i remove the caliper from the rotor?

 

Don't be scared, just do it right. Are you doing the front or rear? Or both? You don't have to remove any of the calipers. On the fronts, you just remove the clip that holds the pins in, then remove the pins that hold the pads in place. Now slide out the pads, and replace. Installation it the reverse. The anti-squeel springs are not a necessity, but I put them in anyways. Ohh, and if you can't fit the new pads in, you have to puch the pistons back in. I remove the brake fluid cover, and then use a c-clamp.

The rears are pretty much the same, but you remove the lower caliper bolt and slide the caliper up and over the pads to gain access to them. The rear pistons screws clockwise to compress back into the caliper body.

Take a look at the manuals at iluvmyrx7.com...lateR

 

use the bible

of course i mean the fsm
youll learn too much in no time flat!

 

Just one bolt for the caliper. Hey IM What size are thoes caliper MOUNT bolts anyway?...if you have to get at your rotors....

 

link to FSM in sig, that answer any and all questions.

 

great thanks guys. I have spare parts car to play with, so i will try it out.

 

The only edit to IMs' post is that I would push the front caliper piston back b4 you take the old pads out. Just stick a screwdriver in between the pad and rotor and pry slowly. YOur brake fliud my gurgle ou the the top of the resevior so be ready to catch it somehow.

The rears are a different story all together and IM described it well. Just understand that teh Piston itself "Screws" back in rather than a simple pry. and the Screwing part can be difficult becuase its old and maybe rusty. You may have to be drastic and grab that piston with a set of Channel locks to get it to move at first. Be carefull of the rubber boot that fits over the piston and do not tear it during this process. And try not to scar the piston either.....other than all that its...................simple??

 

Hint when doing brakes on any car either drum or disc

ONLY DO ONE WHEEL AT A TIME. If you screw up, you can look at the other wheel to see how everything is put back together.

 

wait till you do the rotors...

the bearings are fun getting out

i think the caliper bolts are a 17mm...but i could be wrong

good luck, remember to pump up your brakes before you get to driving it right after the install so everything sets good

 

yup, the front are 17mm, I know that one very well because I broke mine trying to get the bolt off, and then the extra inpact 17mm snapped as well. Fun, Fun!. And the rear ones are 13mm(the nuckle to caliper mount anyways), the actual bolt in the caliper rear it like 12mm, a little smaller...later

 

im changing my pads now and trying to use a c clamp to punch the pistons back in with the break fluid cap removed but it isnt budging. Any ideas?

 

I am using a 4 inch c clamp

 

hey dont worry about not knowing i mean we ALL had to start somewhere. at least your learning and not taking them in to get them done

 

first make sure its the front as mentioned above the rears need to be screwed in, if it is the front just keep trying i guees thehave to push in, i have also used channel locks in the past, just squeeze

 

rears need to be screwed in? Im only working on the back ones. According to my vw friend that is helping me "size does matter 6 inches just dominated her." I just bought around 9 C-clamps...I should have just gone big and then home.

 

Yeah the rear ones I just took a pair of pliers and twisted the pistions in.

 

Read the factory service manual, or better yet, buy a Haynes manual.

Anyhow, you don't need to remove calipers to change brake pads. You only remove calipers to change calipers and/or rotors.

 

How are you going to rotate that piston in the rear without removing the caliper?

 

You're not.

All the auto parts stores sell the special tool (under $10) to rotate the piston back into the caliper.
If you're lucky, the piston might be free enough to rotate with pliers but the special tool is foolproof.

After you replace the pads be sure to check the adjustment of the emergency (parking) brake.