brake issue
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,385
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From: Whitby
brake issue
I just replaced my calipers with new rebuilt ones and ss lines and now my pedal is soft. I bled the brakes 3 times and still soft? My master cylinder lid is kinda iffy could this be the issue prior to swapping all the stuff the pedal was hard. I dont see any leaks coming from any of the lines.
The lid doesn't seal, so it's just there to keep brake fluid from splashing out. You probably still have air in the lines. Bleeding the brakes can be a pain, and make sure you bleed in the correct order: RR, LR, RF, LF.
Check your calibers, I have seen rebuilt calibers leak at the pistons where the lip seals inside where not installed correctly causing a soft pedal until eventually the seal blew all together and they had no pedal.
"calipers" on rx7's are touchy, especially the ones on the rear. i found that the best way to bleed out your system is to do this:
take the lines off of the master cylinder and fill the reservoir. have an assistant press the pedal 1 time, put your fingers over the holes for the lines so no air gets sucked back in, then have them let off of the pedal. do this about 5 times. there, you have a bled master cylinder. attach all lines back to it.
next, bleed out your calipers. right front, left rear, left front, right rear.
you do have to bleed out both bleeder lines on the rears. do the top bleeders first, then, after all of them are bled out, do the bottoms. make sure you have the person that is pressing the pedal pull up on the e-brake lever at the same time while pressing the pedal when you bleed out the lower rear bleeders.
after you are done, your brakes should be rock hard and stop on a dime!
take the lines off of the master cylinder and fill the reservoir. have an assistant press the pedal 1 time, put your fingers over the holes for the lines so no air gets sucked back in, then have them let off of the pedal. do this about 5 times. there, you have a bled master cylinder. attach all lines back to it.
next, bleed out your calipers. right front, left rear, left front, right rear.
you do have to bleed out both bleeder lines on the rears. do the top bleeders first, then, after all of them are bled out, do the bottoms. make sure you have the person that is pressing the pedal pull up on the e-brake lever at the same time while pressing the pedal when you bleed out the lower rear bleeders.
after you are done, your brakes should be rock hard and stop on a dime!
if this doesnt work.......check your vacuum line from the brake booster and make sure it is solid with no cracks. also, take off the banjo fitting on the engine off and make sure it is not clogged.
if all is good and your pedal is still soft, replace the brake booster.
if all is good and your pedal is still soft, replace the brake booster.
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if this doesnt work.......check your vacuum line from the brake booster and make sure it is solid with no cracks. also, take off the banjo fitting on the engine off and make sure it is not clogged.
if all is good and your pedal is still soft, replace the brake booster.
if all is good and your pedal is still soft, replace the brake booster.
No.... if the booster weren't working properly his pedal would be too hard, not too soft.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 0
From: Whitby
ok so looking around today I saw I didnt reattach my brake booster when i removed the UIM could this cause the air getting into the system even though i was bleeding with the car off
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