BurritoBut

Hey all,

I'm having a lot of issues bleeding the brakes.

I recently rebuilt the rear calipers and had the master cylinder rebuilt but I cant seem to get very much fluid through the lines when I try and bleed the system.

Have tried with a buddy to do the 2 man way starting that the back left (right hand drive) but no dice. I get very very minimal fluid coming out. Also the master cylinder was bench bled prior to being installed.

I thought I would try a vacuum bleeder after reading up on here and that still seems to be sucking ALOT of air out.

When I tried doing the front drivers side the vac pump lost all its pressure as soon as I opened the bleeder, is it possible that the bleeders aren't sealing?

I should add that the car has been sitting for a few years with fluid in it.

Happy to upload videos to show what I mean.

As a side note, a mechanic that used to own a FC told me to put a really long line on the drivers side and hold it up above the car then "smash the brakes a few times".... he claimed he had a similar problem.

BurritoBut

Can't seem to draw any fluid through the front either >_

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Need to start working your way back from the calipers. Remove the bleeder completely and let sit, fluid should come out,
at least dribble out after a period of time.
At times, the bleeders can get clogged with sediment, so check bleeder opening.
If still no fluid, remove brake hose from caliper any fluid? If, not remove the rubber hose completely, fluid?
However, normally the rubber hose, if ruptured, can stop gravity fluid flow and/or fluid return resulting in
dragging brakes, but won't inhibit pressure bleeding.
Don't forget the rear calipers have 2 bleeders, but normally the lowers are used only when new calipers are installed.

Just a thought, if the car has ABS it may inhibit flow to one wheel, but never heard of the pump blocking the flow of
all fluid.

BurritoBut

Thanks Ill try removing the bleeders and letting it sit.

As a note its a non-abs.

It seems to be a strange one. I hope I'm just derping and its something stupid and simple. I have asked so many people but there isn't really any answer other than the typical bleeding routine.

I tried both fronts and its dry as a bone. Might be worth trying to bleed the MC again.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking master cylinder.
Try this...
With the pedal depressed, wrap a rag around the lines and crack/tighten the fittings on the MC.
If there is air trapped in the ports, that should dislodge it.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Yep do this first.

If you still cant get the lines to draw fluid, you may want to make a "power bleeder" to pressurize the system from the reservoir and push the fluid down into the lines.

Or keep at it on the shortest front line. It might take a couple hundred pumps to get the fluid down through it. Just make sure the master is bled first.

BurritoBut

Thanks guys, the girlfriend has some work ahead of her :P.

LargeOrangeFront, when you say a couple of hundred pumps are you meaning to crack it fully with a line into fluid and pump it up and down? Or open-down-close-up x100s?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Open it and start pumping slowly and consistently. If there is no air in the master, and it is working properly, it will get fluid moving. I would start that process at the closest wheel to the master to make that process faster. Then do the other front, then do one rear and then the other. Then start bleeding the system.

If you are sure the master is working correctly, and still making no progress pull the lines out of the master, and fill the lines with brake fluid using a syringe. Those 4 stroke oil mixing syringes for lawn equipment will work well. Crack the bleeder at the wheel and inject fluid until it comes out of the bleeder.

Building a power bleeder is still a better way, but this may work on the cheap.

BurritoBut

Awesome, cheers.

I get the feeling that there may be air getting through the thread on the front bleeders. Purely based on the fact that the vac pump will lose all pressure when I crack the nipple - Actually I just thought this may occur with an airlock.

I'll update after I give it a shot.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Just place some grease around the bleeders.

BurritoBut

Super busy with xmas and moving house. Tried cracking the front drivers line and there is nothing coming from the MC, its bone dry....

Ill pop it off tomorrow and bench bleed it. Is it possible that there was an issue with the rebuild? I had it re-sleeved.

BurritoBut

I got the feeling when I tried the above that perhaps the pin that pushes on the cylinder wasn't moving. I'm not too familiar with the anatomy of it but is it possible that the pedal side could be stuck?

BurritoBut

Hmmm. Ok I think I found the problem - with the fronts at least. I managed to suck fluid through the front part from the cylinder but as soon as I use the pedal there is 1-2mm of movement of fluid - eg none at all....

Its a fresh rebuild, hasn't been used for a few months. I was cautious not to fully depress the pedal so it wouldn't **** the seal.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Bench bleed the master. Lube the seal up with some fresh brake fluid. THEN bleed your brake lines and calipers.