bouncing idle - done - vac leak test, set TPS and CAS. Only when warm.
bouncing idle - done - vac leak test, set TPS and CAS. Only when warm.
I have the bouncing idle issue. 1200-1500rpm Only when full warmed up.
What I have done. while throttle body removed. I also removed the front secondary throttle plates.
A. Set thermowax screw with roller inline with top mark @ 25deg C as per FSM.
B. Tested and Set Full range TPS sensor
Found that lowset Ohm setting was 1.2 down from 2.2
This is with 1mm gap on only the top single flap.
C. Tested and Set Narrow as per FSM. down from 1.8 to 0.85 Ohm with closed.
D. Tested ranges on both Narrow and Full TPS and both have no dead spots.
E. Set CAS as per FSM. Aligned right pully mark with pin and removed CAS.
Aligned gear dot with marker on cas body and noted position with top removed.
inserted and re-aligned.
F. Checked injectors and added dieelectric grease to connections.
I then reinstalled everything started the car. And warmed it up fully.
Still had bouncing idle...
G. Connected green 1 pin connector to Battery negative terminal.
H. Sprayed Starting fliud around various areas on engine to see if idle would rise. and there is NO rise or dropp in idle.
I. Remove the BAC connector - NO change.
J. Removed Soliniod Value abouve BAC connector and made no difference.
K. Removed AFM connector (YES AFM) and idle dropped down to 1100rpm.
L. Rechecked the TPS with car warm and Ohm range is correctand same as above. Voltage is 0.85-0.88V when closed and 4.4-4.6v when fully open. Confirmed via AVC-R boost controller.
Please give ideas on what to check.
I have read may posts. and some lead to vacuum leak on gaskets. but i think i would notice the issue when i did the starter fluid.
What I have done. while throttle body removed. I also removed the front secondary throttle plates.
A. Set thermowax screw with roller inline with top mark @ 25deg C as per FSM.
B. Tested and Set Full range TPS sensor
Found that lowset Ohm setting was 1.2 down from 2.2
This is with 1mm gap on only the top single flap.
C. Tested and Set Narrow as per FSM. down from 1.8 to 0.85 Ohm with closed.
D. Tested ranges on both Narrow and Full TPS and both have no dead spots.
E. Set CAS as per FSM. Aligned right pully mark with pin and removed CAS.
Aligned gear dot with marker on cas body and noted position with top removed.
inserted and re-aligned.
F. Checked injectors and added dieelectric grease to connections.
I then reinstalled everything started the car. And warmed it up fully.
Still had bouncing idle...
G. Connected green 1 pin connector to Battery negative terminal.
H. Sprayed Starting fliud around various areas on engine to see if idle would rise. and there is NO rise or dropp in idle.
I. Remove the BAC connector - NO change.
J. Removed Soliniod Value abouve BAC connector and made no difference.
K. Removed AFM connector (YES AFM) and idle dropped down to 1100rpm.
L. Rechecked the TPS with car warm and Ohm range is correctand same as above. Voltage is 0.85-0.88V when closed and 4.4-4.6v when fully open. Confirmed via AVC-R boost controller.
Please give ideas on what to check.
I have read may posts. and some lead to vacuum leak on gaskets. but i think i would notice the issue when i did the starter fluid.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
02 not a player in any way.
Tell us this. Is the 1200-1500 rpm speed happening with the plug pulled off the BAC?????? Or does the speed fall if the BAC plug is disconnected?
If the BAC plug is off, and the idle is in the above range, then something is holding the throttle shaft in the open position OR the throttle plates are not adjusted per FSM. By that I mean the throttle shaft is on it's stop but the gap at the bottom of the plates is not per FSM. I forget what it should be. Ninteen thou seems a familiar figure.
You need to make sure the fast idle cam is OFF the thermowax's piston at full hot idle. I mean the cam should have seperated from the roll pin so the throttle shaft can come to it's full closed position.
We all have our problems. My Toro lawnmower broke its camshaft. I've no idea why it happened. It was running yesterday full bore. This morning it would not start and I found the broken cam shaft. Guess that means I don't have to cut the lawn this year.
Tell us this. Is the 1200-1500 rpm speed happening with the plug pulled off the BAC?????? Or does the speed fall if the BAC plug is disconnected?
If the BAC plug is off, and the idle is in the above range, then something is holding the throttle shaft in the open position OR the throttle plates are not adjusted per FSM. By that I mean the throttle shaft is on it's stop but the gap at the bottom of the plates is not per FSM. I forget what it should be. Ninteen thou seems a familiar figure.
You need to make sure the fast idle cam is OFF the thermowax's piston at full hot idle. I mean the cam should have seperated from the roll pin so the throttle shaft can come to it's full closed position.
We all have our problems. My Toro lawnmower broke its camshaft. I've no idea why it happened. It was running yesterday full bore. This morning it would not start and I found the broken cam shaft. Guess that means I don't have to cut the lawn this year.
Mine was doing this. It was an intake gasket that had gotten "wet" from a coolant hose on the back of the water pump leaking coolant onto it and destroying it.
I couldn't detect it by spraying starter fluid.
It caused hesitation when i stepped on the gas.
Best bet would probably be to replace your gaskets.
I couldn't detect it by spraying starter fluid.
It caused hesitation when i stepped on the gas.
Best bet would probably be to replace your gaskets.
Out of all the things you said you did, nowhere do you say you went back and reset the idle speed to 750. You grounded the initial set connector. You should then start the car and adjust the idle back to 750. Your ECU is issuing a fuel cut command when idle reaches 1500 at warm condition. That's what's causing the idle to pulsate. Turn down the idle speed.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,162
Likes: 167
From: Japanabama
Originally Posted by Rx7TyreBurna
Mine was doing this. It was an intake gasket that had gotten "wet" from a coolant hose on the back of the water pump leaking coolant onto it and destroying it.
I couldn't detect it by spraying starter fluid.
It caused hesitation when i stepped on the gas.
Best bet would probably be to replace your gaskets.
I couldn't detect it by spraying starter fluid.
It caused hesitation when i stepped on the gas.
Best bet would probably be to replace your gaskets.
I've been having the same problem too...and only when hot.
And come to think of it, I had a leaking coolant hose too... gah, I hate taking off the UIM...
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
02 not a player in any way.
Tell us this. Is the 1200-1500 rpm speed happening with the plug pulled off the BAC?????? Or does the speed fall if the BAC plug is disconnected?
If the BAC plug is off, and the idle is in the above range, then something is holding the throttle shaft in the open position OR the throttle plates are not adjusted per FSM. By that I mean the throttle shaft is on it's stop but the gap at the bottom of the plates is not per FSM. I forget what it should be. Ninteen thou seems a familiar figure.
You need to make sure the fast idle cam is OFF the thermowax's piston at full hot idle. I mean the cam should have seperated from the roll pin so the throttle shaft can come to it's full closed position.
Tell us this. Is the 1200-1500 rpm speed happening with the plug pulled off the BAC?????? Or does the speed fall if the BAC plug is disconnected?
If the BAC plug is off, and the idle is in the above range, then something is holding the throttle shaft in the open position OR the throttle plates are not adjusted per FSM. By that I mean the throttle shaft is on it's stop but the gap at the bottom of the plates is not per FSM. I forget what it should be. Ninteen thou seems a familiar figure.
You need to make sure the fast idle cam is OFF the thermowax's piston at full hot idle. I mean the cam should have seperated from the roll pin so the throttle shaft can come to it's full closed position.
2. I adjusted the throttle plates as per FSM when it was off the car. it had about a 1mm gap.
3. The fast idle cam screw never gets off the Thermowax pistion. When warmed up the pistion extends and then inturn moves cam. I saw no movement on the throttle plates when i moved the fast idle cam. (it seems as if it does some bypass)
As in the picture I attached. The RED does not touch the Green (cam roller). Cam Roller was lower than the lower mark before adjustment. Now it is set @ the upper mark and aligned but not touching the cam roller.
4. I do not want adjust the BLUE throttle adjust screw since this will then take my TPS more away from spec. (currently @ 1.2ohms)
5. What the hell does the purple screw do? Before adjustment it never touched any parts. now it does just slightly. (I think this did adjust the primary throttle plate gap.)
Last edited by mr_vaughn; Apr 9, 2007 at 09:53 PM.
Originally Posted by Chuck
Out of all the things you said you did, nowhere do you say you went back and reset the idle speed to 750. You grounded the initial set connector. You should then start the car and adjust the idle back to 750. Your ECU is issuing a fuel cut command when idle reaches 1500 at warm condition. That's what's causing the idle to pulsate. Turn down the idle speed.
You have to set idle once car is warm. It is a rule.......
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