Ok if anyone remembers I had boost issue this summer. Well I live in Michigan and it is cold now and I am boost quite high which is great! But I am wondering if I am boost alot lower when it is warm and alot higher when it is cold what are some areas to look at for my boost issues.
I know that boost rises during colder temps but I dont think that it would give my 5 more psi!

My second question is about my oil pressure, it is alot rising very slow and goes down when I accelerate.


Thanks,
Josh

 

What kinda temp differences?

It sounds like the oil pellet is failing (failed).



-Ted

 

Well like from 80 degs to around 45-55.

Where is the oil pellet? Is it an east fix?

Thanks,
Josh

 

It's the "bolt" in the center of the main pulley...

http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html



-Ted

 

How bad is it to drive it like this? Is this something that I should do ASAP? It doesnt seem like it would be very hard to just space it out with the washers but it is hard to say considering I have never done this.

My oil pressure rises to the normal 60 psi or so then when I accelerate it goes down to abour 35.

My engine is so strong and it only has like 7k on it, so I really dont want to do ANY damage to it.

Thanks,
Josh

 

will you drop the front bearing doing that? or do you have to go deeper in for that to happen? you should put something about holding the clutch in.

 

I dont understand what you mean?

 

that question was for reted....

 

Ahh sorry, that is what I thought.

 

I have removed my front pully numerous times, with an impact wrench a few times, and not once droped the needle bearing that is held by the thrust washed.....this is just me though, I looked at the mazdatrix web site and got scared, so I measured the hub protrusion, and it was within spec...plus my car runs fine, Idlel around 800-900 solid, get 16 most of the time on the vac gauge...

 

My vaccum is around 15 at 800. My car idles great! It is just my pressure that drops when I accelerate.
Also it seems like there is a small spot on the ground near the front of my engine bay daily.

Josh

 

I'm not sure, but you should try getting a new oil bypass pellet...dunno if you can get it one from an aftermarket dealer, but you'll definatly get it up the *** when you go to the dealer

 

F- the dealer! Last time I called them they didnt even know what a RX7 was, he was like that is a mercury xr-7.

DUMB ***!!!!


So I will NEVER go there again!!!!!!!!

 

I guess then my main question is how much damage will this cause?
I am only driving my car for like 1 more month before it goes up for the year!

 

search thermopellet or low oil pressure......

If the thermopellet has failed then you're bypassing the oil to the eccentric shaft and causing lots of premature wear on the main and rotor bearings, as well as not lubricating the stationary gears, and not flowing oil through the rotors for cooling. (30% of a rotarys heat is removed through the oil inside the rotors) It'd be a shame to abuse a new motor like that for something that takes so little time and resources to fix.


If you don't move the pulley on the E-shaft (sliding it away from the front cover) then you'll have no problems with the bearing falling from its race. I pulled mine without pushing in the clutch and had no problems at all.

 

So once I get it loose dont push on the clutch? Then all I have to do is shim it with some washers?
I think that I may be able to handle this. At first I was concerned but I think that it shouldnt be to bad to tackle.

Anymore info is appreciated, and thanks for everyones help.

Josh

 

is your motor a rebuilt one?

if so you should definately look into this

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

i had a very low oil pressure prob. on my old motor with 150,000mi. on it, and it turns out the o-ring some how desenagrated, or got sucked in. who knows?.

-HTH

 

Yes it is a rebuild. But the syptoms are not the same as what that is. It still could be that but I think that I am going to look into that pellet.

Josh

 

my engine prior to rebuilding had the same symptoms. i did the shimming and it got better, but turned out to be a sending unit on its way out. When I rebuild the motor my guage peaked and stayed there. Ended up being fried from the shorted sender. My front cover O-ring and gasket were intact in the dissasembly so leakage was ruled out there... Bottom line is that once you fix the thermowax pellet, the guage is next to go. I wouldn't pull the front cover of a motor untill I knew from a reliable pressure gauge that it was still low.

 

So I should look into the oil pressure sender? Where is that and how hard is it to get to?


Thanks,
Josh

 

just below the oil filter... there's the temp sender (little tiny plug with wire on it) and then there's the oil pressure sender. (much larger and also has a wire clipped on the end from the side of the plug)

They're a real pain in the butt to get out. The shank of it is hex so you need one of the funky notched crescent wrenches to get it off with any speed. the outer end is too big for any of my sockets but could possibly be gripped by a 12 point just like the oil injectors. (once you break it loose with the proper wrench)

 

Jimmy-
I finally went out and checked and it was just that the connector was loose.
Thank God!!!

Thanks again for everyones help.

Josh