Ottoman

what are safe A/F ratio levels on C16?

i've got a very healthy Jspec S5 motor with an equivilant to a BnR Stage 3 turbine


basically i've got most bolt ons...

TID mod
Greddy FMIC
Crane cams Hi-6
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi S-AFC II
3"corksport w/ stock Downpipe
clutch PP FW
Supra TT Denso pump



Basically I have everything Minus Injectors... (going to get some 1000CC drop ins soon)


I'd like to hit the dyno with the car and turn up the wick

i'll run Straight C16 to prevent any detonation...


I have LM1 wideband to plum into the Downppipe


What kinda A/F's are Safe on race gas for a couple Dyno pulls?


Right now on the street I run 7 psi and the A/F's are in the low 12's all the way

Injector Duty cycle hasn't maxed out yet either

phoenix7

Stoichiometric balance for
different fuels are as follows:

Gasoline 14.7
LPG (Propane) 15.5
Methanol 6.4
Ethanol 9.0
CNG 17.2
Diesel 14.6

hope it helps.

TII-aholic

if you listen to this guy youll blow your motor.

for higher boost you want around 11.2-11.5

phoenix7

he has the LM1 and based on the Innovative site those are the right ones.

Page 3 of The INNOVATIVE wideband MANUAL:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf

EDIT; SAME THING APPEARS ON THE LM1 manual.

now your reading comprehension/ vocabulary lesson for the day is:

Stoichiometric balance means PERFECT A/F ratio. Any normal, SENSIBLE, INTELLIGENT person should be able to KNOW that in order to safely tune your motor you need some ROOM for error which is WHY you don't tune your car to 14.7 A/F!!! you tune it a bit rich (maybe 12's or as rich as 11's depending on conditions.)

so if he's stupid and tunes his car for stoichiometic balance then YES he WILL blow his motor but if he's SMART he'll know that he needs to give himself enough room for error (boost spikes and such.)

TII-holic: how about NEXT time you PROACTIVELY search for an answer instead of bashing those answers you THINK are wrong?? You're quick to post when you think it's wrong but you won't take the time to LOOk for the right answer.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

stoich 14.7 would fine for optimal fuel economy and on a non turbo car, if you were running 14.7:1 under boost I bet your engine would bark back, and not in a pleasant way.

piercdawg

What kind of ECU r u running? If you have a stock ECU I hope u dont drop the 1000s in there. I believe the highest is 720cc or 750cc with the stock ecu.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Get rid of the SAFC II and get a real EMS. You need an EMS that can control more than just fuel. The SAFC II does nothing for timing.

Ottoman

right now it is the JDM N374 ecu (i'm unsure if it's been remapped, but the speed cut does seem to be removed)

i am contemplating a Power FC conversion tho.. but with 3 rotaries to maintain.. and the car in desperate need of a paint job and a new LSD.. i don't know if i wanna shell out that more than $1,300 for the PFC conversion..

if they had the Rtek 2.0 for the S5 i'd consider that as an alternative.. but they don't

and my wiring harness is in excellent condition.. i'm not ready to hack up the car and go stand alone

in my local area.. haltech has a really bad rap... unreliable, hard to use ,inconsistant etc... they all swear by motec... which is WAY too much to spend on a dead investment like the FC


but 1000's wont be a problem with the AFC (secondaries aren't a problem it's the primaries that are )... like Juiceh said it's the timing...



i was under the impression.. that with normal **** water pump gas (92-93) you should aim for 11's

with C16 (116 octane) u could let the car run much leaner without detonation worries....

so just for my dyno day i wanted to see what i could squeeze outta this bad boy just to put on the wall.. not to run it daily