why do you say that? because I am not getting standalone? I've seen plenty of moderately modded cars with piggyback systems.

 

I believe his estimation is derrived from the fact that you just want to do this to put the smack down on some friends...or enemies...

Based on that assumption - you're probably going to pop that engine

But yes, plenty of relatively modded 7's use piggybacks, but given the whole situation you begin to describe, what with "I can't afford an EMS" and such...it doesn't seem too far of a stretch to say that you will probably not have it set up properly and end up with a blown engine...

Not trying to be a dick - but that's kinda what I pull from your posts/situation

 

No I am saying that because you are trying to make a 15 second (16 years ago)turbo rotary into a drag racer so you can beat brand new sti's and evo's that run 400hp + with a 3 minute ecu flash and a cat replacement pipe.

You are trying to make the most expensive of all the import cars in the world to mod out (dollar for dollar) extremely fast. And you don't have the money to buy all the components and tuning needed to do it right. = blown motor

Honestly you have no buisness trying to race those cars until you have a setup ready to race something that is twice your HP. You are just going to get spanked and it will cost you $1500 for a rebuild.

 

he also said installed, that is a damn fair price. it is always a good idea to have someone who knows about the EMS they sell installing it as well. no one near him probably has any knowledge about the Rtek 2.0(still in the testing stages anyways) and the megasquirt.

 

Not time for track yet. I want a Koyo, a new diff mount, & tires first. It's not tuned for power right now. I'm gonna wait awhile till I get a reliable tune with a wideband. It's damn fast the way it is now.

 

Amen. Too many people forget our cars are 19 or so years old. Is this car your daily driver? I know mine is and thats why I haven't spent a shitload of money on a bigger turbo to whoop up on some guys who have faster cars than me. Let me tell you that those cars will damn near always be faster than yours. And if I blow my engine then I'm walking to work. If you take a grand and put it into your car, and a guy puts a grand in his 5.0, he's probably gonna kick your ***, And be able to beat on his on a regular basis. You can build a really durable fast rotary but thats just it, BUILD. Our cars take a lot of TLC and tuning to get running fast and reliable. I don't mean to be a dick but I don't want to hear about another blown rotary because of too much boost or whatnot when it could have been avoided by thinking smartly. So do yourself a favor, take time, research, and modify with your brain and not your *****. Because blowing up your car in a drag race against a $30k car isn't representing.

Chris

 

Did you listen to what I said? I am not gonna be going all-out drag. I am more intop autox and drifting. I can care less if I can beat a 400hp evo or not. I just want 300hp and around 12 sec car so I can beat or at least hang with mildly modded evos and stis. Most evos here have only intake and exhaust if not stock with bov. and actually I would spend less building a FC than an Evo. The evo costs 40 grand itself already. I am not concerned about the rebuilds as I will be doing them myself and rebuild kits are not that much and i got extra parts. But it wont be blowin anyways. Whoever said Standalone is needed for mild-moderate tuning? I have seen cars with piggyback systems and running good. When I get a T4 Turbo, I will get standalone. Also I wanted the BNR Stage 1 because it looks stock, so the pigs dont trip. AND AGAIN, I am not making it an all-out drag car, so my choice is quite suited for me. Too much power isnt good for what I want to do. If I am gonna build a drag car, I would just go and get a 20B, which is my future plan.

 

Ok, what isnt good about the setup? I am gonna get the fuel mods and the FMIC. What else do I need? The piggyback controllers are good enough. Al this **** and turbo is gonna be $2.5k-3K. Thats a lot of money. I dont have that extra 1K to spend on an Standalone ECU. I dont really need it, if the piggyback is working it enough fuel already. My friend just rebuilt his engine for $400. I have no problems as I think mild-moderate tuning shouldnt be too bad with the BNR Stage 1 Turbo. I know all the precautions, my question was does the BNR Stage 1 Turbo Perform well and what are the specs and data collected from your use with it. And if the numbers werent what I am looking for, I will go with a To4e turbo, because I know that turbo can perform. NOT TRYING TO BE A DICK, but come on people, please read what Im asking for. and this isnt gonna be my daily driver for much longer. I am getting a new dd soon, just dont know what I want. Might get a Miata again. This rx-7 turbo is nothing but a hobby to me.

 

seriously
the best "first mod" to do to ANY rx7 turbo
is EMS.

it's the foundation, the stepping stone.

AND gives you power by itself anyways.

 

^
Theres nothing "wrong" with that setup. dont worry about standalone now especially if you cant afford it, just get an AFCii, a Bnr, a manual boost controller and a good tune. you'll be stoked about the power increase.

 

this thread is full of stupid

 

Why would you take the time to buy and 'fix up' your car if your just going to half *** it the first time. Can anyone seriously say a piggyback is BETTER than a EMS? No, they're not, never will be. So why would you spent money on and pay someone to tune an inferior setup. You need to think about the future on this. What if later down the road you decide you need more power? Which I know no one that doesn't have that bug. Well, you're going to end up buying an EMS and paying someone to tune it, then you've pretty much just wasted the money on a piggyback and a tune. If I'm going to do something I'm going to do it the best it can be done so I'm not doubling up on expenses. You keep saying you don't have a grand to get an EMS? You need $700.00 (Haltech E6X) for a EMS system that will do everything you need no matter how many mods you can throw onto the car and you'll never have to worry about upgrading it. Screw spending $350.00 (Apex'i SAFC) on an inferior system. Take your time and do it right. If you blow through this trying to get quick power... your not different from those 'ricers' your trying to beat.

 

???

what? what does that have to do with anything? you're at 0psi the moment you push the gas pedal to the floor with any turbo, and into "positive boost" a milisecond after that.

 

dude:

get a haltech and a hybrid turbo, some fuel and a FMIC. that will be like 3k.

for what you want to do, you dont need a "HKS t04e" (why the hell does it have to be HKS?) and all this aftermarket turbo stuff. also, are you aware how much a "t04e" flows? do you even know which compressor WHEEL you want? seriously. if you have to get a new turbo setup to impress your friends, just get a hybrid and a haltech, and the fuel to go along with the haltech.

 

I think the Megasquirt group buy is still going on, it's much cheaper than getting a haltech/microtech in my opinion. And you gain all the functionality of a stand-alone with it.

 

I think anything over 300hp is good for me. Like I said, I'm not into drag that much, but want 300hp at least. I got my hks fcon and hks gcc for $100 each x 2 = $200. Microtech = $1400. I can get a hook up for a dyno, so I dont worry much about that. and everything I take off when I upgrade, I will pass it on to me friend who has a 89 TII. Its not the best setup, but you got to say its way better than stock.

You understand exactly what I want to do. Its not the best setup, but its way better than stock and is way cheaper than standalone and big turbo setup. I can do this setup for less than $1,500.

I heard from some friends that the HKS To4e is good and has good midrange. I havent tried it myself, but was recommended to me to suit my needs. And after reading on it, it seems like it works for my needs. I am not looking for an all-out drag car, so I dont need the biggest turbo. Anything like a TO4R is not what I want.

 

 

sorry for asking. i should just stick to my instincts, and avoid all who say stay away from racing. I'll do as I like. But thanks to those who actually answered my question which was the BNR stage 1 turbos capability.

 

We'll see how concerned you are when it does happen. It's exactly how i was thinking until i lost a daily driver.

 

Don't worry about me. The only thing I am gonna do right now is get a full 3" Exhaust. I wont do any turbo upgrades or any more boost than 12psi until I get me another daily driver. I sold my Miata, so I need a daily driver. I might even be going back to stock until I get another car. i do plan to do all this by the end of the summer. Thats why I say I dont have enough money, because I still got to get another car for daily driving. My rx-7 was never meant to be my daily driver, its sole purpose is to race and drive for fun.

 

there's a guy with a megasquirt, intake, exhaust, fmic. stock turbo running 10psi making 274whp. he might also be streetported, can't remember.

 

Damn, that is not bad. Hmm, I am thinking about that megasquirt though. It seems like a good buy and its so cheap compared to microtech or haltech. I do want around 300hp though, so I think I might need the BNR Stage 1.

 

eternal gamer:

you missed my point about the HKS t04e.

a t04e is a t04e whether its made by garrett, master power (not the ebay masterpower), turbonetics, borg warner, whatever......
didnt you say you want like 300whp? you do *not* need a t04e to do that. maybe you want it just cause its JDM tyte HKS stuff? i made 360whp with my t04b vtrim turbo at 15psi.

if you need to make more than 250-260whp, get a hybrid turbo. end of story.

 

O I C. Well, I just said HKS Turbo, because I want the manifold and wastgate as well. Yea, I know its the same. Well, since you are making 360whp on your hybrid, I might as well do the same and get a hybrid. Thank you, thats the info I needed. I just need at least 300hp.