It's amazing what a little time and effort can result in. Breathtaking work iceblue.

 

I have here the chassis harness or front harness to the car. This is a JDM RHD harness. If you ask about any builder they will tell you that a clean bare look is probably the hardest look to pull of in a project. We will only see how well I do ;-). One of the ways I went to achieve this was to remove every single wire and plug from the harness that I was not using or needed. I did not cut wires I depined them all from the connectors. Hey it also saves weight so now I am lighter. The hardest part of this for me was the FSM diagrams online are not accurate to the JDM harness. The next hard part for me was I did not leave things in OEM positions I chose to relocate and build custom brackets. While the harness is apart I need to compensate for this and relocate parts of the harness to go where I need. In the pics the harness is not fully taped back up but its getting there. I will not tape it in all places until it is in the car and I verify one last time that everything is where I want it.

HARNESS


Relocation coils


Relocation fuse panel


Wires removed


ABS removed

 

nice thing about this^^ is you could make a little cash selling that ABS unit!1
you crazy weight saver!!!! lol
nice work....

 

Nice work, it's looking good. Should be a nice ride... for a rotary.

Look forward to seeing the next step-

 

damn. very nice thread iceblue!

 

Time to coat the rails boo ya! I taped along the seam of the rail and the apron an strut tower. I chose to go above the seam seal so than the dark color will hide the imperfections of the seam sealer and provide a better barrier for leaks that may cause rust.

When you tape this off be very accurate it will be hard to do again without screwing it up. Tape it off 4in high or so and get something to cover everything then tape it up so there are no cracks. If you do this during primer its a lot safer, you can just sand the black off the primer.

Tape everything up!






Spray her well.


Enjoy your work!

 

Well Allen called me today, he asked if I wouldn’t mined spraying Diamond white pearl again instead of the Crystal white pearl. The trade off is the Crystal will stand out more on the pastel color be more like a bright bead in the clear coat. The Diamond will coat the paint with a white tint and have smaller beads in them.

The Crystal will be about 99% impossible to ever touch up. The diamond is far easier to touch up from a scratch or wreck.

If you look back into my pics where you see pink paint that was sprayd in diamond.

Now the last thing is the Crystal costs 90$oz be around 5oz to spray the body and 2oz for the engine bay. The diamond I get for free in speez paint "very very high end paint"

 

So when are we gonna get to see it on the road ice? I am looing for the excuse to make a roadtrip with some buddys real soonlike to see it!

 

I've seen this car in person and can say that this is the most thorough breakdown and reassembly of a car I have seen and i can't wait to see it painted also.

 

I got jewd out of 200$ on parts for my motor. So I need a few more parts and to finish polishing the housings and assembling it. I then need the Tien RA coil overs and energy suspention kit. I need the TII drive train. I then need to polish my control arms and put RB sways in. I need to blast my subframes and paint them. I need to pay for my E6k and fly Ted in to tune it. I need some gauges and wheels. I need the body kit also. Oh and the cage has to go in.

I will put the car on the road without the interior done. So hopefully beginning of may it will run.

 

awesome man keep up he good work

 

Primer coat 4

Guide spray

sand

etch spot




Spot primer


Wet sand 800grit and Wax & Grease remover whipe

 

Finally got to spray today!

Paint base coat 1




Paint base coat 3






Tack Rag pickup after paint

 

Pearl 2 coats




Clear 3 coats before color sand and compound buff.

 

nice work..

 

dammit...im gonna say it...... w/ the pearl, that looks fuggin good! since its a girls car, its ok! now if it was your car, id be a little worried

 

Thank you vipers! I am still waiting to get slammed for it.

I can't complain for all free materials!

I do have a typo. On base coats there was 4 coats sprayed not 3.

 

friggen sweet. Good luck putting all of it together. ha

 

Today was another day and a day to work on the car “Smiles”. The first thing done was finishing the frame rails. You can obviously see the paint on them that would never be left as a finished product. Lets get to work fixing it shall we “winks”.

First thing is masking it off really well along the seams, masking tape hear it will work but not come out as good. You will want to use a detail striping tape. This is the tape used when you see custom painters draw out things like flames. Run this along the seam pressing it in with your finger nail.





Take a 1” masking tape, runs this along the line as well, just barley cover over the detail stripe. This will work as a guide stripe and allow the imperfections masking tape will naturally give you work out.



Go over this with a 2” masking tape, this will give you some body to work with.



Take your cover towel or sheet; pull this along the lines of your tape. Take another strip of 2”+ masking tape and run half of it along the cover blanket and the other half over the masking tape. Repeat as needed to get a good hold and cover any holes.

 

I did the front part of the car and the RAD support braces so I masked these off as well the same way.

After you have done the above re-spray with undercoat if needed to cover any new spots. I did this along the seam of the frame rail and the apron area and along the frame rail and firewall. Take some paint whatever paint you want I chose black paint. Give the car hell with the paint. I re-sprayed everything the front and the rails, anything that was undercoated. Your finished product should look something like this.











After you spray wait a few minutes then remove all the tape and cover.

 

Moving on to the harness, first I drug the big thing into the cab and laid each end out where it should go. I screwed down the harness guide on the steering column to help hold the harness in place. I also just clipped on the fuse panel box. Pull the lead that will go into the engine bay and organize it some. Take any lose ends clips or leads and tape these up. Taping them up will allow you to push them in the hole easier and keep them from flopping around possibly scratching the paint on you. Go into the bay and lay a towel over were the harness will be coming out. Tape the towel down so it doesn’t move. This will also keep the harness from scratching the paint. We do not want to scratch a brand new paint job!

The harness in fitment form


See the towel covering the engine bay. I stood through were the wind shield goes with one hand and the other inside and guided the harness through the hole.


Tape the little dangly leads up


This will make things a lot easier for you. When pulling a large lead through the hole that splits to a smaller lead, stop! Grab the small lead and pull it through the hole then follow with the bigger one. If you don’t where the harness splits and creates a large point will bind up in the hole making it difficult for you. Scenario shown in the pic


Take the sound deadener backing and put them on.


And sound deadener on the sides and bolt everything up.


On the other side

 

I put the wind shield wipers in the past 2 nights or so. There is a box inside the upper firewall layer that will prevent your wipers arms from fitting. This box has to be cutout; you can not use the USDM setup as the motor will hit the brake booster. So I cut it out the cover and routed holes and so on, so just check out the pics for the walk through.

Here is the cover cutout with the box shown removed. The cutout was done in foresight of being able to remove the box plus giving me guideline marking points and a good seam to weld on without hindering anything else.

On here you will see I cut the JDM piece out smaller for only the portion I need and 2 holes to give an exact guide position point, removes the need to measure.

The JDM piece was traced out.

Then taken to a dermal press where I piloted a hole then used a steel routing bit.
The finished item.

Back to the car we go with the edges of both pieces sanded down.

Weld thru primer is added to the inside and outside of both surfaces.

The Panel is bolted to the wiper arm to ensure fitment under any condition. The panel is then held to place with vice grips as I can hold the other side with my hand.

 

Spot weld the panel on, remove vice grips.

Stitch weld it up. Damn I hate flux core! How’s them welds for you Aaron?

Grinded down smooth.

A striping wheel was used to strip the whole panel down for paint and seam sealer.

I know you don’t see this it gets covered but I don’t care I like it all done right inside and out. Took some Icing with hardener and wend down the welds to level everything smooth, its just like bondo. Wax a grease remover was then whiped over it.

Primer added and shown finished with primer. I will hit it with some paint but going to give this a night to dry fully.

 

The front part of my kit came in still waiting on my RE sides. I will give this kit a rating of 7.5 out of 10. If it was not hard steel enforced fiber glass but ABS I would give it another point, If the headlight assembly was separate and well constructed I would give it another point, and if it had instructions not needed but just to be thorough I would give it that last half point. I won’t comment on fitment because they all have to be fitted.


Here are the headlights not HID I will convert it but its projector low beam with LED blinker.

All the mounting hardware.

 

what a sweet thread, nice car!