Blog. The FC3S blog of iceblue
10-17-05, 09:04 PM
#51
Passing life by
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10-17-05, 09:06 PM
#52
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Studs replacement rear
My auto parts store got 10 more studs in so I replaced the rear studs this time. You have to remove the rotors from the rear to get the studs in and out but you do not have to for the fronts.
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Last edited by iceblue; 10-17-05 at 09:11 PM.
10-17-05, 09:21 PM
#54
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Grounding setup and Electrical upgrades
This car was seriously starting to **** me off with its random hesitations and stuttering at any given RPM. I as well wanted to finish the electrical properly so I broke down and did it during this down time. So here is my take on grounding the car all connections were crimped in a vice and soldered, the surfaces were sanded down and dilithium grease was also used.
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Last edited by iceblue; 10-17-05 at 09:25 PM.
10-18-05, 08:39 PM
#55
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Updates on outcome
I got my oil baffle pan in and installed it. That thing is a PITA to put in with the motor in the car. By far the most difficult part of pulling the front cover was installing that baffle and tightening the bolts in the front of the pain. I think I will just pull the motor next time I mean hell the only thing left is one mount and the tranny bolts.
The greatest tool and invention used in this whole deal was a aerosol RTV can
I used one of them 90deg bend wrenches for the front pan bolts that was by far the easiest thing I could find worked great. It was just to tight of a fit and the driver side bolts were really tight with any other wrench or socket. I used air tools to pull the rest of the bolts out but put them in by hand.
The greatest tool and invention used in this whole deal was a aerosol RTV can
I used one of them 90deg bend wrenches for the front pan bolts that was by far the easiest thing I could find worked great. It was just to tight of a fit and the driver side bolts were really tight with any other wrench or socket. I used air tools to pull the rest of the bolts out but put them in by hand.
10-30-05, 04:13 PM
#56
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Updates
I winterized the cooling system but one of the #1 rotor injectors was sticking shut. Apparently the car went lean and #1 rotor chunked some apex seals out the exhaust. This sux but I will make the best out of it. Ahh **** it, I am just going to part it……………..JK. I already have the motor ready to pull out, will do that any day now. Just need to get the lift back over here. I will document the rebuild; the motor will get painted and polished. Street port “large one” will be done. I know it took a housing so will get one off the board, will try and get FD housings. Debating if I should S4 NA rotor it or stick with the S4 TII rotor if they are still good.
That is it for the rebuild but not for the car. I am going to take advantage to the motor being pulled out so that I do not have to yank it again to work on car. I will repaint the engine bay same color, as the car will be painted. I will also seal up all of the holes that are not being used in the engine bay. I want the bay as absolutely minimal as I can and empty as possible.
But wait there’s more! That was fun to say, I will be doing the RHD conversion as well at this time. Every part will be cleaned and repainted that is in the engine bay. I am going to depower steering the rack and move the alt down there.
That is it for the rebuild but not for the car. I am going to take advantage to the motor being pulled out so that I do not have to yank it again to work on car. I will repaint the engine bay same color, as the car will be painted. I will also seal up all of the holes that are not being used in the engine bay. I want the bay as absolutely minimal as I can and empty as possible.
But wait there’s more! That was fun to say, I will be doing the RHD conversion as well at this time. Every part will be cleaned and repainted that is in the engine bay. I am going to depower steering the rack and move the alt down there.
11-16-05, 11:18 AM
#61
A girl smoking rice boys
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Panama City, FL
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houston it blew about 2-3 weeks ago if i member right (today is 11-16) but im not sure..... i can ask him and let u no if u would like or u can call him if u want some updates or info he will def. give it to u im sure if not ill kick his *** jus let me no
11-17-05, 07:25 PM
#62
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Engin tare down.
Here is the disassemble of the motor; we lost 1 rotor 2 housings and possible front iron and intermittent iron.
I will spec them for lapping when I get a free day off from work. Baby doll did most of the work,
I walked her through it. Well I take that back she showed up after I pulled the cover and flywheel ;-).
So I need a B, C, D S4 TII Rotor or 2 S5 TII rotors, 2 FD housings, S5 or FE stat gears, Irons.
If you have some let me know.
I have decided that this entire turbo setup is going so let me know if you want some parts I mean everything.
As stated before E6K, GT40R and I want a different IC, FMIC setup.
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I will spec them for lapping when I get a free day off from work. Baby doll did most of the work,
I walked her through it. Well I take that back she showed up after I pulled the cover and flywheel ;-).
So I need a B, C, D S4 TII Rotor or 2 S5 TII rotors, 2 FD housings, S5 or FE stat gears, Irons.
If you have some let me know.
I have decided that this entire turbo setup is going so let me know if you want some parts I mean everything.
As stated before E6K, GT40R and I want a different IC, FMIC setup.
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Last edited by iceblue; 11-17-05 at 07:31 PM.
11-17-05, 07:31 PM
#63
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11-17-05, 07:33 PM
#64
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11-28-05, 11:02 AM
#65
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RHD step 1
Hello again, I cleaned my shop up some more to make more room. I zip bagged the bolts all up and put the parts from the motor in a cabinet. The interior bolts I have not picked up yet but will be in one bag same place. I still have to pull the AC then the harness through the hole. The rest of the bay is striped for the most part. I wanted to give a few update shots. Up coming for the next post will be. Holes drilled for RHD and engine bay striped along with fully striped interior. After the RHD bolts up I will mark every existing open hole or screw in the engine bay and will weld these up to achieve a perfect smooth look.
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Its going to be pretty bad *** when done though.
11-28-05, 01:35 PM
#69
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lol it was trashed both housings and 1 rotor even though only 1 rotor blew.
Yes I drove on it; I was 4 miles down the road. It actually stalled the motor when it blew. I restarted it and heard apex seals ping as they went out the exhaust, it blew at 2.5k RPM.
It was already damaged so I wasn’t about to walk home and trailer it
Yes I drove on it; I was 4 miles down the road. It actually stalled the motor when it blew. I restarted it and heard apex seals ping as they went out the exhaust, it blew at 2.5k RPM.
It was already damaged so I wasn’t about to walk home and trailer it
Last edited by iceblue; 11-28-05 at 01:37 PM.
11-28-05, 01:45 PM
#70
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12-11-05, 09:52 PM
#72
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Update
I am changing the layout of this thread. You will now click on the displayed thumbnails for a larger image, instead of clicking on the text below it.
12-11-05, 10:09 PM
#73
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Rhd
We began the RHD conversion this weekend. Next weekend we will finish the conversion and start cleaning up the firewall and engine bay. Next week will also conclude the rust removal from the fender well in a spot the strut tower and apron seem and the core support beam to lower frame rail. Followed by self-etching primer and primer.
The idea was in the air to do a write up on this conversion. However I have decided this conversion is far too difficult with many methods of approach possible, making the effort a lost cause. If you need to ask how to do this conversion or do not have a method that suits you, or if at any point you do not know what is fully involved in this kind of body work and structure points of the car, then DO NOT attempt this conversion. Take your car to a qualified individual.
I had a lot of step by step photos from Saturday that I would have liked to share with you all but I think I accidentally delered them from my camera. I do have the images of today and I tried to take some pics of metal that was cut off from Saturday, and will try and explain what was done for you.
Allen chose the method for the new drivers side firewall to be cut from the JDM clip and swapped into our A-spec car. The now passenger side of the A-spec car has been chosen to be filled in by welding metal in place and then cut to fit what we need. We talked about it a lot and decided the steering column section was worth cutting out instead of filling and re drilling.
To accomplish this you need to mark each spot weld from the factory support beam on the firewall. We then traced the line to be cutout on the firewall. The JDM clip firewall was cutout larger then the A-spec car and trimmed to fit. The wire harness hole was left in tacked and traced along the seem of the firewall. The weld will be much easier to hide along the seem. The JDM cutout along the apron was done inside the car so that it could be cutout larger then the A-spec car.
We used a 1/8th drill bit to pilot the spot welds. Then a uni bit was used to finish drilling out the spot welds. The piece was now cutout. Now Mazda firewall support beam is made up of 3 pieces, the firewall “lower part” inner top structure “Steering column mount” and outside upper firewall “wiper motor mount section”
Since the firewall is being swapped we need to preserve this setup. The JDM section was cutout fully and not sport weld drilled, but the spot welds were marked for later. The A-spec was drilled out and only lower portion cutout. The JDM piece was now grinded out section by section. After top layer spot weld was grinded out only a putty knife was used as a chisel and used to separate the top section as shown.
Now we repeat this setup to remove the middle section.
Now that the JDM piece as been cut and fitted we sprayed all the edges with welding primer and held the piece in place with vice grips.
The top was spotted in.
Then the section was spotted in then stitch welded and filled in.
The idea was in the air to do a write up on this conversion. However I have decided this conversion is far too difficult with many methods of approach possible, making the effort a lost cause. If you need to ask how to do this conversion or do not have a method that suits you, or if at any point you do not know what is fully involved in this kind of body work and structure points of the car, then DO NOT attempt this conversion. Take your car to a qualified individual.
I had a lot of step by step photos from Saturday that I would have liked to share with you all but I think I accidentally delered them from my camera. I do have the images of today and I tried to take some pics of metal that was cut off from Saturday, and will try and explain what was done for you.
Allen chose the method for the new drivers side firewall to be cut from the JDM clip and swapped into our A-spec car. The now passenger side of the A-spec car has been chosen to be filled in by welding metal in place and then cut to fit what we need. We talked about it a lot and decided the steering column section was worth cutting out instead of filling and re drilling.
To accomplish this you need to mark each spot weld from the factory support beam on the firewall. We then traced the line to be cutout on the firewall. The JDM clip firewall was cutout larger then the A-spec car and trimmed to fit. The wire harness hole was left in tacked and traced along the seem of the firewall. The weld will be much easier to hide along the seem. The JDM cutout along the apron was done inside the car so that it could be cutout larger then the A-spec car.
We used a 1/8th drill bit to pilot the spot welds. Then a uni bit was used to finish drilling out the spot welds. The piece was now cutout. Now Mazda firewall support beam is made up of 3 pieces, the firewall “lower part” inner top structure “Steering column mount” and outside upper firewall “wiper motor mount section”
Since the firewall is being swapped we need to preserve this setup. The JDM section was cutout fully and not sport weld drilled, but the spot welds were marked for later. The A-spec was drilled out and only lower portion cutout. The JDM piece was now grinded out section by section. After top layer spot weld was grinded out only a putty knife was used as a chisel and used to separate the top section as shown.
Now we repeat this setup to remove the middle section.
Now that the JDM piece as been cut and fitted we sprayed all the edges with welding primer and held the piece in place with vice grips.
The top was spotted in.
Then the section was spotted in then stitch welded and filled in.
Last edited by iceblue; 12-11-05 at 10:20 PM.
12-11-05, 10:10 PM
#74
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The now passenger side was filled in. We cut up metal from the old JDM clip for backings. They metal was cut to fit and held up with a hammer while they were spot welded into place.
The items were then welded up.
I chose to go with a smooth engine bay because I am going with a striped look. We then welded every hole closed in the engine bay that is not needed. The tape you see in previous pics is marking what holes we are keeping.
The welds are then grinded smooth
I really hope every one is enjoying this thread and I will keep it coming for you. It has been very difficult trying to figure out what style of car baby doll is wanting. Talking to her tonight about it was up and down. She came to that she wants a racecar. With the standards of a show car that is daily driven. This means we will be looking at wide body more then likely with 11in 3 piece rims. Roll cage with harnesses and large turbo as stated before. The color of the car still is undecided as well is the body kit.
If anyone has suggestions for wheels and kits please post them.
Last edited by iceblue; 12-11-05 at 10:16 PM.
