cloudzero

iTrader: (1)

If your car is a S5 then yes it would plug in if it is a S4 then now the harness would have to be fabbed up. the S4 harness looks almost like a T while the S5/S6 harness is (||) shaped, or something close to that. On the s4 and s5 the harness plugs into the back of the alt, on an s6(fd) it plugs into the drivers side.


Anyways my issue was not my wiring of the vehicle which I have done a proper re-wire to handle the Fd alt, but it was an issue with the body ECU which uses the L terminal. And L feel this has an impact on the alternator knowing when to charge or enter limp mode / self excite.

Just like the test you can turn on the ignition and back probe the L terminal with a multimeter and you should read close to 1v. On mine it was reading 0v until i pulled the ECU and fixed the solder joints in there. Then I checked again and I had 1v back at the L terminal and stable idle voltage.

I'm just giving an example of my problem and solution trying to help the OP out with something simple he can check.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Kid, I'm trying to help you in getting help. I'm completely unconcerned about your bling bling cellphone. Once you mature a little you might understand that you grow out of the insecurity that causes envy.

I could have helped you out as I own both S5 and FD alts...maybe your phone can fix your car for you?

hsilive

So far yes it has helped me fix my cars Jeff and i guess that's your half butted way of apologizing I accept but I'm more mature then posting rude and disrespectful comments in others threads we are all here to help eachother not rag on eachother respect is very important in any aspect of life and that's why I do very well in life and am very well connected in the business I conduct if you would like to post something of value on my thread it would be appreciated if not please don't bother now for everyone else and without the hostility I had a friend send me a pic of the alty and it is a s4 model is there any other suggestions on what I should do to try and make a s4 work as is well to stop having them blow maybe a step by step test to find out what's ruining them ?

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

^ I would have read if you had bothered to use any punctuation to assist me in reading your paragraph long run-on sentence.

My advice all along has been the same, using even a little grammar will make it easier for people to help you out.

bumpstart

the plug on the back is the obvious clue
the T shaped plug is s4,, top of the T is the IG switched field wire

the better plug with the weather seal and the parallel pins is s5
,, usually the pin closest to the B+ is the field wire that needs to go to the battery for filed switch
( but not always on some remans or cosmo alts )

the L wire will help the alt switch on at low rpm
it is not entirely necessary,, many old school conversions will lack it,, and charge fine for years
if this connection is missing ,, you rev the motor and it will turn on

s4 will come on around 1800 rpm,, the s5 tends to be 3000 rpm
once it is on,, it is on,, and they will be maintaining 13.8 - 14.5 V without further issues


if you find you have s4 alt now on the s5/6 wiring,,easiest place to establish instead a new ig switched feed from is the L coil test plug

hsilive

Very good bumpstart so basically I need to make sure the top wire of the t goes to my battery and the lower wire to my dash light ! Nice now if you have any idea what a extra wire going to the charging lead might be I can't find a reference to one anywhere I'm almost thinking it may be the wire from the top of the t sent through the harness a foot and connected right there instead of the battery !

HAILERS2

Howboutthataftertwentyfourpostsyoufoundoutbhapstan cethatyoUhaveaseriesfouralternaorandnowyoudonthave thesensetoreadposttwentyfourwhichshowshowaseriesfo uralternatoriswiredgoawaynowifnotsooner

bumpstart

IF you have T plug on the alt,, the top of the T must be IGNITION SWITCHED POWER
not the battery
( LIVE ONLY WHEN KEY REDS ARE ON )

if you DONT have a T plug on the alt,, then the closest pin to the B+ must go to battery
( LIVE 100% of the time )

the dodgy wire added to the B+ wiring was shortcutted to the field switch wire on any s5 or s6 alt added to make it work
it is STILL the incorrect place to take it from,, you MUST make the effort to find true battery DC and not alt AC

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

how about we just get some pics of the alternator with this fancy cell phone?

hsilive

Well i will be able to post good pics of it soon my buddy is now out of town so all i have is his half butted pic he is definitely no mechanic and can barely find a alternator lol I do have my very with me and it is set up close to the same minus that extra wire I guess I could pist those for you

hsilive

Thanks again jumpstart I think I might understand what i need to do now your really on the ball

hsilive

Hey bumpstart I found a direct bolt on 180 amp alternator it has a thermo cutoff built in to avoid overheating in your opinion would this possibly be a perm fix without doing anything but routing that field wire It's pricey that's why I want your opinion

bumpstart

if you have a s5 or s6 alt already it will be plenty,, s4 alts on the other hand are very marginal on supply if you have bigger pumps and stereo

later alts can have there own differences ( like some require a PWM from the ecu ) and without seeing it directly may just be a new lot of issues
- its not just how you turn it on,, it must also mount in the original spot clear any top mount ,, and be easy to convert the pulley to s4/5

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Sounds fishy. An alternator that needs a failsafe like that is being overworked and I wouldn't believe anything without seeing a load test performed at 180 amps first.

As Bumpstart said, a FD alt should be plenty for a mildly modded car. As for your question, I'm not sure a Taurus alt would work with the pulley set you have now. The FD and Taurus Alt's shafts are bigger than the FC Alt's. Japan2LA offers a pulley specifically for our cars, but it is made for using a FD alt on a FC. Unless I tried it personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable saying that it'd work with a Taurus Alt. While the pulley I got with my FD alt worked on the Taurus alt, I've got no clue who made it since it was an ebay find

All things considered, your best bet would probably to get the pulley and a FD alt since they are proven to work properly together on a FC. I've still got the FD alt and puts out a solid 14.0 if you're interested. PM me back and we'll make a deal on it.

hsilive

Thank you comet and you other guys turns out it was a three part problem from doing a little more research I found the e fan I'm using takes close to 50 amps the upgraded fuel pump takes a bit as well and who knows what the ls1 ignition takes so i just ordered a 140 amp direct fit alty ! Has the same shaft as the original fc one and same pigtails ! As I mentioned I'm still 1600 miles away from the car but i will see how it works around the 18th and will post my results thanks to all of you that tried to help me figure this out !

hsilive

Ok so i got my 135 amp alternator pully shaft was slightly different but I made it fit ! So far it works but i started with a dead battery it is charging up now . I also upgrade to 24k battery terminal just in case we will see how it works out ! I'm hoping for the best now another issue is without the car overheating I seem to have too much pressure built up in my cooling system does anyone know if changing the temp of my thermostat would help relieve some pressure ?

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

Jesus Christ! Thats the longest run-on sentence I've ever seen!

HAILERS2

Now you've gone and hurt my feelings. In post #32 above I thought I did a bang up job unequaled by anybody on the face of the earth. Cheeze!

hsilive

Big 140 amp alty did the trick still having the charge light coming on so I will be re soldering ecu as per your directions thanks you guys