blew three alternators in three days whats up
 

Ok just bought car from a friend on the club site its a 87 tii has the haltech e6x and a haltech ra10 to run the ls1 coils everything I can find says its three wires the s or sence wire the l or idiot light wire and the charge lead well I have a fourth hooked up at the charge lead does anyone know what it is and also I have the lucky 7 race pully setup if that matters I just want the car not to keep eating up these alternaters ! Thanks for any insight guys

How are the alternators failing? No charging? Overvolt?

No charging the onr i had rebuilt the shop said blew the rear bearings but I dont think that's the main issue

try not getting crap alternators.

and

are you sure you have sufficient amps to actually power everything that needs it? stock IIRC they are 60 amps, which isn't a whole lot.

Ok the first alternater was custom from previous owner and had been working in the car for at least one year the second one was ordered through my local shop probably carquest the third was that original one that I took in and had rebuilt they said they beefed it up by about 5 amps all three went bad so im pretty sure its not parts but something in the setup if your just going to smart off and not even mention anything to do with my thread please post somewhere else to help you feel better about yourself now once again anybody know what that fourth wire might be ?

i'm not the one who hasn't said anything here, all you've said is that your alternators keep failing.

what do you want to know? it is belt driven and hooked up to the battery, what is there else to fail? if you're alternators keep failing then the battery may be weak, they're being overheated, they're junk or you're not testing them properly. underdriving them via underdrive pulleys will also result in low idle amperage figures, hence my "smarting off" comment.

it's a basic system with basic troubleshooting, the alternators are 25 years old and who knows how competent your rebuild shop is, especially if they consider 5 extra amps to be "beefed up".

Ok thanks for a better response well the belt system is the lightweight singlebelt deal from lucky7 the pully seems only slightly larger then the stock v belt system and as i understand it the should be three wires the l the s and the c or light sence and charge well i have four one extra one on the charge lead and I can't track where is goes I think maybe one of the haltech units ? And how can I test the umm consumption on these leads ? Car also has hid lights and a electric fan I tried the pully tight and loose on the second two alternaters they still failed and yes my engine creates a ton of heat how hot would too hot be shouldn't a alternator handle as much as that motor should hold expecially cuz the old intercooler vent is giving it airflow almost exclusively

A bad battery can kill an alternator. I've had it happen on my old GTU.

I use a red top optima and i bought a diehard for the last rebuilt alternator still blew it this is a more complicated issue I think

Just a suggestion, but try pulling the body ecu under the drivers kick panel. disassemble it and reflow all the solder joints. I had this issue not to long ago and this fixed my problem.

arethesestockalternatorsandifsoagainhowmanywiresot herthantheoutputcabledotheyhave?

I have a haltech e6x so I don't think it even goes to the charge system I was told it basically runs the clock and door lights so I don't think thats the issue but I will look into it couldn't hurt and hailers2 does your space bar not work LOL there are two wires hooked to my charge lead one goes to the battery and i replaced that with a shorter new cable the second has a eyelet type connector that disappears into the wire harness I have no idea what its for but have a feeling it might be part of the issue could anyone tell me if it might lead to the haltech ecu ? Or that ra10 converter

Is this or is it not a stock Mazda alternator? A stock alternator has one output cable and two smaller wires that control the alternator.

And this is why I prefer plug-and-play installation of standalones (assuming the OEM harness isn't trashed) rather than rewiring the whole car... there are so many things that have been altered and so many things that could be wrong

Exactly and there should be on a stock i know a charge lead the sence lead and and the idiot light lead the ones you mentioned on the pugtail are the sence or control wire and the other is the idiot light still none of this is helping I need to know what that extra wire on the charge lead is

Cloudzero is your 87 tii a swap or original tii

You still have the charge harness. The X wont replace that nor does it run the X directly off the output of the alternator.

The eyelet connector by the alt should be hooked up to the B+ post (beige thing with a nut on it). Have you verified the proper series alternator in your car or the appropriate mods to run a diffirent series?

mine is an original TII, but the alternator is an Fd unit. That little wire that runs to the body ecu is responsible for for triggering the gauge cluster and also telling the alternator when to get excited i think. mine would still charge but i had to rev it to about 3 grand then it would charge but was put out about 15-15.9 volts and basically killed the reg in the alternator. when i hooked up the new one it started doing the same thing. I fixed those solder joints basically i sucked out the old solder and replaced all the joint. and now my alternator is rock solid 14.1 volts, the idiot cluster works, never did and my horn works which has not worked in 5 years.

Witch wire is it that runs to the body if you dont.mind mine has a harness shielding so It's tuf to track them

Problem: Car eats alternators
Cause: Mazda being too cheap on them from the factory
Solution: use a Taurus Alternator

130A Taurus Alternator > 100A FD Alternator > 80A S5 Alt > 70A S4 Alt

As you can see, the almighty Taurus Alternator wins every time. Wiring is simple too, see attached picture from my photobucket
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...torUpgrade.jpg

Remember, the rated output for an alternator is its peak on a good day. Running it at its peak will burn it out in 15 minutes or less. To use a Taurus alternator, you'll need to run a dual belt pulley, the exact same one that you'd use with a FD alt on a FC. Japan2LA has them for sale right now and they're a perfect fit.

You'll need to fabricate some simple brackets. What I did was drill two 1/2" holes 1/2" apart each in two 1/4" thick flat iron pieces roughly 2" long. Add Five 1mm thick washers to the original fixed mount and you'll get it as close as possible to stock alignment. Flip the adjustment strap over backwards and put Four 1mm thick washers on where the adjustment bolt ear goes. If you get the alternator from a junkyard, be sure to get the pigtail and mounting bolts too.

Dude that's pretty much what i want to try thing is I'm running a single belt racing pully do you think I still could get your Taurus alty idea to work ?

I think you should use some punctuation other than space bar between words...hailers tried to make that point but you missed it.

Gotta love newbies who don't give enough information, don't use proper grammar and get mad at others for drawing their attention to these things....as if we are the cause of their problems.

As a sidenote...I only wish your thread title read "Blew three trannies in three days" :)

Wow what a dip FYI I'm posting from my cell phone probably one you can't afford anyway so here's the new scoop I finally got hold of the fellow who put this together he can't remember if the alty was a fc or a fd so I want to know would the pigtail from a fc fit in a fd alty and if so might my problem be that i need to flip those two wires around ? And quit trollin justjeff you might as well not post as your comments are not needed and yes you'll always be just Jeff nothing more !

and when you put all the info up,, the answer becomes obvious

the original t2 s4 does NOT have the correct trigger wiring for s5 and s6 alts
swapping them with no concern for changing the wiring brings up exactly the faults you describe

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/2...twiring3sz.gif

please look at the diagram carefully,,,, your field exciting trigger why should now be the battery + and NOT ignition switched power


s4 also lacks the B+ that is capable of carrying 70 + amps ,, s5 have a doubled B+ wire harness

the easiest solution is to cut the end of the existing B+,, and wire it into the S terminal plug for switching duty

now route 2 x 8 AWG or 1 x 4 AWG from the B+ pin on alt to the starter ( if battery in boot ) or to the EGI fuse ( unfused side ) or battery
( ie,, use the insufficient stock B+ for switching the alt,, and run a new,, capable B+ )

Thank you bumpstart lot of info there currently I'm about 2k miles from the car car so i will have to wait until i get there to try any of this but from I remember it looks like mine is a s4 or s5 thank you for the awesome diagram !