B'ham Al Intro, Troubles & Help
10-19-15, 04:48 PM
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B'ham Al Intro, Troubles & Help
Member Background
I’ve been a member for quite some time; I don’t post much but I do get great information on various topics from all the knowledgeable members. And for that, thank you.
Car Background
I bought my 1990 GTU in 1993. I always wanted a RX7 and after college and a job, I finally was able to purchase one. Simple service was done by me and other services were done by Clairmont Auto (no longer around). It became the family “3rd car” in the late 90’s and was left to be driven on weekends and other times. It was/is a great car and I have never thought about getting rid of it until lately.
Issues
It all started about 6 years ago with a simple changing/flushing of the coolant system. After that day, it has been one issue after another. Initial problems were:
1. Coolant system overflowing and bubbling into overflow bottle.
2. Car running hot.
3. Upper radiator hose “bulging” during running.
4. Upper radiator hose “collapsing” during running.
5. Coolant buzzer going off.
I then pulled the radiator, flushed it, changed radiator neck, new thermostat & cap (from Mazdatrix). Still couldn’t get the coolant system to act right.
After several years and not doing much but an occasional cranking for 10-15 minutes (it would start running too hot), I starting talking with a good mechanic friend who has some experience in RX7’s and after a tow to his garage, it was determined that my coolant seal might be blown. Uggggh. A new engine replacement was talked about but locating one proved to be difficult. Then a certified Mazda rebuilt engine was considered but due to warranty issues with the install, the local Mazda dealership entered the picture.
Dealership
Finally bit the bullet spring of 2014 and took it to my local Mazda dealer (Med Center). The initial thought was to just order a new (rebuilt) engine but a younger mechanic (RX8 owner) asked to check the car over and run a compression test first and see what the real problem(s) might be. After a couple of days, he called me down to let me know that the compression tests turned out just fine and a lot of air in the coolant system was causing problems. Not to mention a tune up was in need. Excited about not having to purchase an engine, other repairs and preventative maintenance items were addressed:
1. New hi flow catalytic converter from RX7.com (existing was shot)
2. New Koyo double pass radiator and cap (my choice after the problems I had)
3. New Exedy stage one clutch (had 100,000 miles on old one)
4. New lower water heater hose
5. Fluid changes, plugs, filters, etc.
After the “tune up”, the only item that seemed to be causing problems was the TPS, the idle seemed to be out of sync and replacing it seemed like something for later considering the cost of the part. I was happy to be driving my 7 again and started thinking about a list of parts for future fixes (shocks, struts, springs and exhaust). I then started to have some temp gauge issues of slowly climbing to full temp and then rapidly back down to normal. After some reading, I decided to change the coolant temperature sensor and that seemed to help but not solve the problem.
Current
2015 and now the car seems to be constantly flooding. I would go to crank it every weekend and it simply wouldn’t turn over. After pulling the EGI fuse and working that little trick I could get it cranked (lots of smoke initially) and drive around with the following issues:
1. An occasional (usually once) quick spike and instant drop of my temperature gauge.
2. Idle would be high even after auto choke (3,000). It would settle in around 1,500 for 10 minutes or so but after another 10 minutes of driving it would dip severely below 500 and stall out without some quick pumps of the gas pedal at each stop sign/light.
Now worried to drive it too far, it now sits for weeks at a time and starting it each time is becoming more difficult with the flooding issue. I’m completely guessing that the tps needs adjusting, fuel injectors need cleaning / replacing and who knows what the hell else? I don’t want to buy / replace parts that don’t need it but I’m lost right now.
In my 40’s now, I don’t have tons of time to tinker around with the car. I don’t know a rotary mechanic in the Birmingham area and wish I had somebody to rely on to solve what I hope are just small nagging issues. I’ve thought about taking it back to my mechanic friend but not sure how well versed he is in rotary engines. Any suggestions / experiences on garages in the area?
I’ve been a member for quite some time; I don’t post much but I do get great information on various topics from all the knowledgeable members. And for that, thank you.
Car Background
I bought my 1990 GTU in 1993. I always wanted a RX7 and after college and a job, I finally was able to purchase one. Simple service was done by me and other services were done by Clairmont Auto (no longer around). It became the family “3rd car” in the late 90’s and was left to be driven on weekends and other times. It was/is a great car and I have never thought about getting rid of it until lately.
Issues
It all started about 6 years ago with a simple changing/flushing of the coolant system. After that day, it has been one issue after another. Initial problems were:
1. Coolant system overflowing and bubbling into overflow bottle.
2. Car running hot.
3. Upper radiator hose “bulging” during running.
4. Upper radiator hose “collapsing” during running.
5. Coolant buzzer going off.
I then pulled the radiator, flushed it, changed radiator neck, new thermostat & cap (from Mazdatrix). Still couldn’t get the coolant system to act right.
After several years and not doing much but an occasional cranking for 10-15 minutes (it would start running too hot), I starting talking with a good mechanic friend who has some experience in RX7’s and after a tow to his garage, it was determined that my coolant seal might be blown. Uggggh. A new engine replacement was talked about but locating one proved to be difficult. Then a certified Mazda rebuilt engine was considered but due to warranty issues with the install, the local Mazda dealership entered the picture.
Dealership
Finally bit the bullet spring of 2014 and took it to my local Mazda dealer (Med Center). The initial thought was to just order a new (rebuilt) engine but a younger mechanic (RX8 owner) asked to check the car over and run a compression test first and see what the real problem(s) might be. After a couple of days, he called me down to let me know that the compression tests turned out just fine and a lot of air in the coolant system was causing problems. Not to mention a tune up was in need. Excited about not having to purchase an engine, other repairs and preventative maintenance items were addressed:
1. New hi flow catalytic converter from RX7.com (existing was shot)
2. New Koyo double pass radiator and cap (my choice after the problems I had)
3. New Exedy stage one clutch (had 100,000 miles on old one)
4. New lower water heater hose
5. Fluid changes, plugs, filters, etc.
After the “tune up”, the only item that seemed to be causing problems was the TPS, the idle seemed to be out of sync and replacing it seemed like something for later considering the cost of the part. I was happy to be driving my 7 again and started thinking about a list of parts for future fixes (shocks, struts, springs and exhaust). I then started to have some temp gauge issues of slowly climbing to full temp and then rapidly back down to normal. After some reading, I decided to change the coolant temperature sensor and that seemed to help but not solve the problem.
Current
2015 and now the car seems to be constantly flooding. I would go to crank it every weekend and it simply wouldn’t turn over. After pulling the EGI fuse and working that little trick I could get it cranked (lots of smoke initially) and drive around with the following issues:
1. An occasional (usually once) quick spike and instant drop of my temperature gauge.
2. Idle would be high even after auto choke (3,000). It would settle in around 1,500 for 10 minutes or so but after another 10 minutes of driving it would dip severely below 500 and stall out without some quick pumps of the gas pedal at each stop sign/light.
Now worried to drive it too far, it now sits for weeks at a time and starting it each time is becoming more difficult with the flooding issue. I’m completely guessing that the tps needs adjusting, fuel injectors need cleaning / replacing and who knows what the hell else? I don’t want to buy / replace parts that don’t need it but I’m lost right now.
In my 40’s now, I don’t have tons of time to tinker around with the car. I don’t know a rotary mechanic in the Birmingham area and wish I had somebody to rely on to solve what I hope are just small nagging issues. I’ve thought about taking it back to my mechanic friend but not sure how well versed he is in rotary engines. Any suggestions / experiences on garages in the area?
10-19-15, 07:49 PM
#3
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
since your rad cap is 24 years old,I think you should retire it and try a new one.
It really sounds like a coolant seal went out on it, and all the money spent on the cooling system was a temporary band aid
Honestly for how much you've put in the car and how much you love and enjoy it, get the engine rebuilt, don't have to do it yourself by any means if you don't want to
10-20-15, 08:52 AM
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You missed item #2
It really sounds like a coolant seal went out on it, and all the money spent on the cooling system was a temporary band aid
Honestly for how much you've put in the car and how much you love and enjoy it, get the engine rebuilt, don't have to do it yourself by any means if you don't want to
It really sounds like a coolant seal went out on it, and all the money spent on the cooling system was a temporary band aid
Honestly for how much you've put in the car and how much you love and enjoy it, get the engine rebuilt, don't have to do it yourself by any means if you don't want to
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10-20-15, 10:27 AM
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Would the pressure test yield whether the coolant seal has blown or just that there might be leak somewhere? Any suggestions on the idle, is it possible the tps just needs adjusted with someone who knows what they are doing? Thanks for the advice.
10-20-15, 11:48 AM
#9
Originally Posted by rx7brad
After my friend told me he thought the coolant seal let go, you don't easily forget it. But after the dealership diagnosis, I hoped everything was okay. I'm just not sure I'm willing to continue to put "big money" into it with a nagging thought there is always going to be something not right with it. Was hoping to find a local expert but I think that went away with Bob at Clairmont Auto. I hate it but if rebuilding the engine is the real fix, it may be time to let her go.
10-20-15, 01:22 PM
#10
The BAC is supposed to support the idle when and if it drops below 750 rpm. Stalling out just sitting there is a bit different than stalling after the throttle has been completely released. The throttle plates shutting too quickly upon deceleration can cause the car to possibly stall but there is a mechanism on the rear throttle linkage used to prevent this from occurring.
The Green/Red wire of the TPS is to measure close to 1 volt w/key to on after the car has been fully warmed up (20 minute drive will do).
The Green/Red wire of the TPS is to measure close to 1 volt w/key to on after the car has been fully warmed up (20 minute drive will do).
Last edited by satch; 10-20-15 at 01:26 PM.
10-20-15, 01:31 PM
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Do you see bubbles in the coolant when the car is running and the radiator cap is off?
I had an engine that wasn't stored correctly by the previous owners (62,xxx miles on it) and that was the first thing that alerted me to the issue. About $3000 - $3500 later, I've got a rebuilt engine and a new toy to play with! You can make it a bit cheaper depending on what you have done to it during the rebuild, I had mine street ported, which made it a little more expensive. 3 days working slowly and you can have the motor out. If you have emissions removed already it makes it much easier. Well worth taking a little time for the rebuild!
I suggest Banzai-Racing for the rebuild. They did some great work with my overly rusted coolant passages!
I had an engine that wasn't stored correctly by the previous owners (62,xxx miles on it) and that was the first thing that alerted me to the issue. About $3000 - $3500 later, I've got a rebuilt engine and a new toy to play with! You can make it a bit cheaper depending on what you have done to it during the rebuild, I had mine street ported, which made it a little more expensive. 3 days working slowly and you can have the motor out. If you have emissions removed already it makes it much easier. Well worth taking a little time for the rebuild!
I suggest Banzai-Racing for the rebuild. They did some great work with my overly rusted coolant passages!
10-20-15, 02:11 PM
#12
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Im in leeds and i sent my tii out of state to get redone. If i had it to do over again i think i would use hesco. Thats where i have been taking it to since i got it back. Bob at clairmont looked at it in 2006. Said it was coolant seal. I drove it there he waited couple hours to let it cool down and took radiator cap off. Cranked it up let it run a bit and said see the steam coming out. I said yeah he said it isnt steam its compression...blow by. He said steam is white this is brownish. I sat on it til 2012 and sent it off got it back in 2014. If your gonna keep it seems like you are gonna have to spend some money on it. I went all out with mine....well in my opinion i did. Im happy with it, though. I have a 3rd gen also and im having reliability stuff done to it. Im currently waiting on a quote from hesco to do the work.
10-20-15, 02:51 PM
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Im in leeds and i sent my tii out of state to get redone. If i had it to do over again i think i would use hesco. Thats where i have been taking it to since i got it back. Bob at clairmont looked at it in 2006. Said it was coolant seal. I drove it there he waited couple hours to let it cool down and took radiator cap off. Cranked it up let it run a bit and said see the steam coming out. I said yeah he said it isnt steam its compression...blow by. He said steam is white this is brownish. I sat on it til 2012 and sent it off got it back in 2014. If your gonna keep it seems like you are gonna have to spend some money on it. I went all out with mine....well in my opinion i did. Im happy with it, though. I have a 3rd gen also and im having reliability stuff done to it. Im currently waiting on a quote from hesco to do the work.
If she's blown a coolant seal, I don't know if I can stomach spending another $4 - $5k on it. Hate it because she's been garage kept, covered, even repainted by Truman Fancher years ago, it damn near looks brand new. I really think I brought this on myself (it was touched on by blackball7) by using it as 3rd car and not driving it enough. Bob (Clairmont) even once told me, "these cars like to be driven, not made for sitting around".
10-20-15, 03:14 PM
#14
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They use to work on them back in the day. They also knew of bob. Im not sure if they have rotary mechanics persay. They have told me they dont have a problem working on them. For what its worth they work on high end stuff...lambos, ferrari, etc...all they way down to regular cars. I know that doesnt necessarily mean rotary specialist. I have used them for regular mech stuff on t ii and what im waiting on them to quote me for 3rd gen will be the most ive had them do. I dont want you to use them and be disapointed and blame me. I have no connection to them other than what i have told ya. Im 36 and i have never found anyone by me that is just totally awesome with working on these cars....ive had one since i was 17. You guys that live by rotary shops have it good lol. You talk like people have worked on it besides bob that know bout 7's. What about them......or did i miss they arent around anymore......i know bob is out?
10-20-15, 04:43 PM
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They use to work on them back in the day. They also knew of bob. Im not sure if they have rotary mechanics persay. They have told me they dont have a problem working on them. For what its worth they work on high end stuff...lambos, ferrari, etc...all they way down to regular cars. I know that doesnt necessarily mean rotary specialist. I have used them for regular mech stuff on t ii and what im waiting on them to quote me for 3rd gen will be the most ive had them do. I dont want you to use them and be disapointed and blame me. I have no connection to them other than what i have told ya. Im 36 and i have never found anyone by me that is just totally awesome with working on these cars....ive had one since i was 17. You guys that live by rotary shops have it good lol. You talk like people have worked on it besides bob that know bout 7's. What about them......or did i miss they arent around anymore......i know bob is out?
Used MedCenter and the young tech that worked on it did a good job, took car of the car, asked me a few times to come to the shop so we could talk/see through issues and was very considerate of his "billable hours". I did not care for the service writer though.
I do know the owner of Empire Autohaus in Pelham and he is a savy car guy and does know about rotary's (not his specialty) but he tends to be a little more $$. But I do know him personally and I trust him.
It just seems like nobody can work out all the little kinks (actually might be a big one if the seal is blown). After many years, it's becoming more than frustrating.
Thanks for the local info.
10-20-15, 05:32 PM
#16
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No problem
They are gonna take off upper intake manifold and do all the vacuum lines along with some other stuff. I have all the parts so should just be a labor bill. They wont take your car till they have space to keep it inside thats one of the other things im waiting on. Ill let ya know how they do with that if ya want me too.
I would think you could at the least get a reputable shop to build motor like blackball 7 suggested and have hesco put it in. Id want it done locally at least so i would have it close by and wouldnt get jerked around
Jeff is who i talk to he seems real confidant.
I wrestled a long time with keeping mine or getting rid of it while it was down for 6 yrs. As stated before seems it is getting harder and harder to find them in good to great shape. Sounds like yours is in good shape. If the paint and body are good like you say, just spring for a motor. I know i would have regretted selling mine.
Mine are not my daily driver. I try and drive them at least once a week. And it is bad for them to sit
They are gonna take off upper intake manifold and do all the vacuum lines along with some other stuff. I have all the parts so should just be a labor bill. They wont take your car till they have space to keep it inside thats one of the other things im waiting on. Ill let ya know how they do with that if ya want me too.
I would think you could at the least get a reputable shop to build motor like blackball 7 suggested and have hesco put it in. Id want it done locally at least so i would have it close by and wouldnt get jerked around
Jeff is who i talk to he seems real confidant.
I wrestled a long time with keeping mine or getting rid of it while it was down for 6 yrs. As stated before seems it is getting harder and harder to find them in good to great shape. Sounds like yours is in good shape. If the paint and body are good like you say, just spring for a motor. I know i would have regretted selling mine.
Mine are not my daily driver. I try and drive them at least once a week. And it is bad for them to sit
10-22-15, 08:53 AM
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No problem
They are gonna take off upper intake manifold and do all the vacuum lines along with some other stuff. I have all the parts so should just be a labor bill. They wont take your car till they have space to keep it inside thats one of the other things im waiting on. Ill let ya know how they do with that if ya want me too.
I would think you could at the least get a reputable shop to build motor like blackball 7 suggested and have hesco put it in. Id want it done locally at least so i would have it close by and wouldnt get jerked around
Jeff is who i talk to he seems real confidant.
I wrestled a long time with keeping mine or getting rid of it while it was down for 6 yrs. As stated before seems it is getting harder and harder to find them in good to great shape. Sounds like yours is in good shape. If the paint and body are good like you say, just spring for a motor. I know i would have regretted selling mine.
Mine are not my daily driver. I try and drive them at least once a week. And it is bad for them to sit
They are gonna take off upper intake manifold and do all the vacuum lines along with some other stuff. I have all the parts so should just be a labor bill. They wont take your car till they have space to keep it inside thats one of the other things im waiting on. Ill let ya know how they do with that if ya want me too.
I would think you could at the least get a reputable shop to build motor like blackball 7 suggested and have hesco put it in. Id want it done locally at least so i would have it close by and wouldnt get jerked around
Jeff is who i talk to he seems real confidant.
I wrestled a long time with keeping mine or getting rid of it while it was down for 6 yrs. As stated before seems it is getting harder and harder to find them in good to great shape. Sounds like yours is in good shape. If the paint and body are good like you say, just spring for a motor. I know i would have regretted selling mine.
Mine are not my daily driver. I try and drive them at least once a week. And it is bad for them to sit
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