best way to open 5th and 6th ports
#1
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best way to open 5th and 6th ports
i got a 90 gxl and im going to be doing a lot of exaust tuning and tampering with the air pump. So i dont want to use any of those in opening the ports. Is their a way to open those ports on a STAND-ALONE SYSTEM? im currently toying with the idea of useing an electric soleinoid, but the solenoids i need are kind of expensive and i was alerted to possable heat problems. Then i got this crazy idea if finding a small electric air pump that could supply the air to the actuators on demand. But i havent found any pumps that are even remotely useful.
Does anyone have any ideas, or a system your useing?
Does anyone have any ideas, or a system your useing?
#2
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The best is with the stock air pump... the second best is:
http://www.fc3s.org/6-ports.html
http://www.fc3s.org/6-ports.html
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Originally posted by silverrotor
I have an RPM Switch and an old EGR Soelnoid. Works beautilfully. In fact, I have a 12v air compressor on the way that I just won on e-bay. Doing this, will allow me to ditch the ACV and the Air Pump In whole.
I have an RPM Switch and an old EGR Soelnoid. Works beautilfully. In fact, I have a 12v air compressor on the way that I just won on e-bay. Doing this, will allow me to ditch the ACV and the Air Pump In whole.
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I just bought a suspension pump from a GM car for doing the same thing. Cost me all of 11 bucks at the bone yard.
I am curious if anyone has the schematic for the pumps we're using? (fc3s doesn't use the built in valve) I'm thinking that it might have a 3-way valve in the head of the compressor but don't want to chance ruining it randomly supplying 12V to either side.
I am curious if anyone has the schematic for the pumps we're using? (fc3s doesn't use the built in valve) I'm thinking that it might have a 3-way valve in the head of the compressor but don't want to chance ruining it randomly supplying 12V to either side.
#7
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BLAH!!!! $5 Relay, an airpump, and a few feet of vacuum hose = ELECTRONIC 5/6th PORTS AND VDI!!! MY IDEA!!! BLAH!!! I'll link it when I find it, give me 3 minutes
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#8
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Non-Adjustable. Opens with 2 stock solinoids and opens at the stock points.... BLAH!!!
I'M A FUGGIN GENIUS!!! BLAH!!!
I'M A FUGGIN GENIUS!!! BLAH!!!
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The earlier the caddy, the better (I'd imagine). Considering the early caddys weighed more, and would need a higher CFM pump. This is just a guess tho'. I have yet to pick one up... cause I'm poor
#11
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I think mine came off an `82 buick, but the same pump was on a `78 caddy and a couple other GM cars of that era. I chose the buick's because the factory mount was flat. (I get to keep the factory isolators this way)
#12
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Originally posted by OC_
yea, thats pretty much what i want to be able to do. Is the picture of the compressor still on ebay? could you send me a link?
yea, thats pretty much what i want to be able to do. Is the picture of the compressor still on ebay? could you send me a link?
#13
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Originally posted by neumonik
silverrotor what type of air compressor did you get from ebay? I see quite a few and just wanted to know which you figured was best to use.
silverrotor what type of air compressor did you get from ebay? I see quite a few and just wanted to know which you figured was best to use.
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that looks perfect! i want one! when you get it, please let me know who made it and so on. i want to see if i can track one down. i guess ill start lookin on e-bay. No one here bid against me or its bad karma!
#16
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
How about using a set of generic power lock actuators, some bicycle cable, and an RPM switch? Shouldn't cost more than $50, and will be pretty reliable...
How about using a set of generic power lock actuators, some bicycle cable, and an RPM switch? Shouldn't cost more than $50, and will be pretty reliable...
#17
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
How about using a set of generic power lock actuators, some bicycle cable, and an RPM switch? Shouldn't cost more than $50, and will be pretty reliable...
How about using a set of generic power lock actuators, some bicycle cable, and an RPM switch? Shouldn't cost more than $50, and will be pretty reliable...
#18
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Then don't locate the actuators in the engine bay. That's what the bicycle cable is for. The solenoid type suck, you need to use the linear actuator type. They can stand long periods of stall.
Hell, with this system you could even adjust how much you want the ports open at what RPM...Sort of like an S-AFC for the 5th and 6th ports...
Hell, with this system you could even adjust how much you want the ports open at what RPM...Sort of like an S-AFC for the 5th and 6th ports...
#19
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Originally posted by silverrotor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...857704606&rd=1 Made In Italy!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...857704606&rd=1 Made In Italy!
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I feel that the best way (without enough exhaust back pressure and with the air pump removed) is as follows.
First some facts:
We tend to drive based on torque. Horsepower is hard for us to feel since the seat of our pants can't multiply very well.
If one uses RPM to open auxillaries then they would open at different levels of torque.
If one uses manifold pressure (which is proportional to torque) you get what I consider is a good solution.
You could use the signal from the AFM to open them but it is proportional to HP not T.
Snapping them open might lead to tractability issues but I doubt it since the power increase is probably not enough.
Heat kills electronic systems.
Now, throttle position is somewhat proportional to manifold pressure.
I am going to try this cheap, simple solution. Take some bicycle cables and open the 5 and 6 ports using the throttle linkage. Use maybe the last half of throttle travel to take them from full closed to full open. Kind of remind anyone of 4 barrel carbs? Of course I'll have to remove the actuators and add some light return springs but what the heck it sounds easy and should be good.
Any comments before I get started?
First some facts:
We tend to drive based on torque. Horsepower is hard for us to feel since the seat of our pants can't multiply very well.
If one uses RPM to open auxillaries then they would open at different levels of torque.
If one uses manifold pressure (which is proportional to torque) you get what I consider is a good solution.
You could use the signal from the AFM to open them but it is proportional to HP not T.
Snapping them open might lead to tractability issues but I doubt it since the power increase is probably not enough.
Heat kills electronic systems.
Now, throttle position is somewhat proportional to manifold pressure.
I am going to try this cheap, simple solution. Take some bicycle cables and open the 5 and 6 ports using the throttle linkage. Use maybe the last half of throttle travel to take them from full closed to full open. Kind of remind anyone of 4 barrel carbs? Of course I'll have to remove the actuators and add some light return springs but what the heck it sounds easy and should be good.
Any comments before I get started?
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