i got a 90 gxl and im going to be doing a lot of exaust tuning and tampering with the air pump. So i dont want to use any of those in opening the ports. Is their a way to open those ports on a STAND-ALONE SYSTEM? im currently toying with the idea of useing an electric soleinoid, but the solenoids i need are kind of expensive and i was alerted to possable heat problems. Then i got this crazy idea if finding a small electric air pump that could supply the air to the actuators on demand. But i havent found any pumps that are even remotely useful.
Does anyone have any ideas, or a system your useing?

 

The best is with the stock air pump... the second best is:
http://www.fc3s.org/6-ports.html

 

I have an RPM Switch and an old EGR Soelnoid. Works beautilfully. In fact, I have a 12v air compressor on the way that I just won on e-bay. Doing this, will allow me to ditch the ACV and the Air Pump In whole.

 

yea, thats pretty much what i want to be able to do. Is the picture of the compressor still on ebay? could you send me a link?

 

silverrotor what type of air compressor did you get from ebay? I see quite a few and just wanted to know which you figured was best to use.

 

I just bought a suspension pump from a GM car for doing the same thing. Cost me all of 11 bucks at the bone yard.

I am curious if anyone has the schematic for the pumps we're using? (fc3s doesn't use the built in valve) I'm thinking that it might have a 3-way valve in the head of the compressor but don't want to chance ruining it randomly supplying 12V to either side.

 

BLAH!!!! $5 Relay, an airpump, and a few feet of vacuum hose = ELECTRONIC 5/6th PORTS AND VDI!!! MY IDEA!!! BLAH!!! I'll link it when I find it, give me 3 minutes

 

Non-Adjustable. Opens with 2 stock solinoids and opens at the stock points.... BLAH!!!

I'M A FUGGIN GENIUS!!! BLAH!!!

 

I had a 97' Caddy electric air pump that was weaker than an aquarium pump. Which year and model are you guys using?

 

The earlier the caddy, the better (I'd imagine). Considering the early caddys weighed more, and would need a higher CFM pump. This is just a guess tho'. I have yet to pick one up... cause I'm poor

 

I think mine came off an `82 buick, but the same pump was on a `78 caddy and a couple other GM cars of that era. I chose the buick's because the factory mount was flat. (I get to keep the factory isolators this way)

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...857704606&rd=1

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...857704606&rd=1 Made In Italy!

 

that looks perfect! i want one! when you get it, please let me know who made it and so on. i want to see if i can track one down. i guess ill start lookin on e-bay. No one here bid against me or its bad karma!

 

How about using a set of generic power lock actuators, some bicycle cable, and an RPM switch? Shouldn't cost more than $50, and will be pretty reliable...

 

There Is many varibles or options to undertaking a full electronic system for the auxilliary ports. I find my set up to be bullet proof and very accurate. My only concern with the 12v air compressor, that I will be receiving next week, Is the air line Input will be to big to plug In to my EGR Solenoid. There Is ways around this though.

 

this was already brought up. the problem with this is that those door openers are only made to be on for only a moment. And i dont think they would hold up to the heat in the engine bay. It would have a very short life.

 

Then don't locate the actuators in the engine bay. That's what the bicycle cable is for. The solenoid type suck, you need to use the linear actuator type. They can stand long periods of stall.

Hell, with this system you could even adjust how much you want the ports open at what RPM...Sort of like an S-AFC for the 5th and 6th ports...

 

found another on ebay, just bought it now!

 

Atta boy.

 

the only think that worries me is that the pump doesnt seem to be rated for constant use. but its so cheap its worth a try!

 

I feel that the best way (without enough exhaust back pressure and with the air pump removed) is as follows.
First some facts:
We tend to drive based on torque. Horsepower is hard for us to feel since the seat of our pants can't multiply very well.
If one uses RPM to open auxillaries then they would open at different levels of torque.
If one uses manifold pressure (which is proportional to torque) you get what I consider is a good solution.
You could use the signal from the AFM to open them but it is proportional to HP not T.
Snapping them open might lead to tractability issues but I doubt it since the power increase is probably not enough.
Heat kills electronic systems.

Now, throttle position is somewhat proportional to manifold pressure.
I am going to try this cheap, simple solution. Take some bicycle cables and open the 5 and 6 ports using the throttle linkage. Use maybe the last half of throttle travel to take them from full closed to full open. Kind of remind anyone of 4 barrel carbs? Of course I'll have to remove the actuators and add some light return springs but what the heck it sounds easy and should be good.
Any comments before I get started?