Whass'up!
I'm looking for the best procedure for setting the timing on my '88 T2 streetport.
I've tried the FSM method to get things going and it usually starts right up and revs pretty solid but beyond that things get strange.
When I check the yellow timing mark, though, it seems to be about 25* BTDC and the CAS won't go in but at almost fully clockwise (advanced) when lining up with the pin and the dimple in the CAS. Not to mention the engine starts to get a bit warm after about 15 mins.
I've never had this issue with any other engine before. Any other changes to timing seem to get lesser results. Whass'up wit' 'dat?
For finer tuning, I know I have to set the timing at higher RPMs (~4K or so), but I want to make sure all is well before I go to that step, or should I just go ahead and do that now?

More fuel? Coil probs, maybe???

Mods:
med. to large streetport
stock turbo (stock TMIC)
550cc pri., 720cc sec.,
stock ECU (N333)

Show me the light!

-turb'd

 

are you trying to adjust the CAS with it idling or with it revving? because i thought that the ECU advances/retards the timing on different rpms, and if you try to adjust the CAS when it is revving, that it will not bring forth good results.

 

Engines got to be below 1kish, set the timming to the factory yellow mark. If you cant, you inserted you CAS wrong, re insert it. It has a tendency yo skip one tooth while being inserted. what i do is take the cas cover off and mark one of the reluctor wheels that lines up with something memerable with a sharpie, then you know its in right. even if the cas is in right you still have to put a timming light on it to verify factory timming.

 

Who is the dumbass that told you you needed to time is differently than stock???


Who is the dumbass that told you to check timing at 4kRPM???


Why do you think your fuel or your coils have something to do with this???


-Ted

 

Laugh.. I love Ted.... cracks me up....

 

ruthless

no dumb questions! no dumb answers!

 

Well, as to why I might think there may be a coil prob, which I didn't state earlier (my bad), is because I don't always get a signal on L1 but always get one on L2 (possibly grounding issue?), and as for the potential for a fuel prob, I think I might have a bad pump and might be starving for fuel causing the heating issue. There are NO vacuum leaks!
I came to the conclusion on the ~4K timing point for tuning an SP from threads I've read on getting the more performance from the engine - port timing.

I am timing at idle, then am attempting to time for more performance.

Isn't this the reason for these forums anyway, to learn and to find what's truth and what's garbage??? I don't know it all which is one of the reasons why I'm a member - to LEARN!!!

Thanks for the input and Show me the knowledge!!!

-turb'd

 

Find TDC, stick a spoon in the exhaust port and wait until the piston hits the spoon... ... but wait a second... GREAT SCOTT, YOU DON'T HAVE ANY PISTONS!

In otherwords:

After about 1kish rpm, the ECU starts to skew the timing tables out of linear expectations. In otherwords, you'll never be able to set timing at 4krpm (or for that matter, anything below 1k) on a stock ECU rotary engine. I had Project84 come over one day and show me why. Stick the timing light on L1 (or i guess L2 in your case) and turn her on at 1krpm. Great. Now rev the engine. See how much the ECU advanced timing (or retard i suppose in your case if you're trying to boost why setting timing, lol)

 

Yes, if you read some threads about setting timing as you tried it is most likely by someone w/ a stand alone ECU.

Streetports do seem to run smoother w/ retarded timing at idle and if you are running a Haltec and can "lock" the timing it is a good idea to rev it up and make sure the timing stays true.

But w/ stock ECU you are limited to setting the timing as specified in the serivice manual.

 

that's exactly what i was thinking--aside from the dumbass part.

and this is a newly streetported motor?

and DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING???

just giving ya crap man. and if it's a bad port, could that have something to do with it? just an idea.


Matt

 

Whass'up,
I appreciate the input guys, really. I'm more mechanical than technical and trying to bridge that gap by asking.
Again, thanks for the input. Good stuff to know.

-turb'd

 

Timing lights firing on the coils is not a good indication if the spark plugs are firing.
There was a thread a while ago about L1 versus L2 spark - one side does not fire consistently.
This is why your idle has a little burble to it.
This has something to do with the wastespark firing of the leadings.

If you want to absolutely verify the spark plug is firing, remove the spark plug and leave the spark plug wire on it.
Ground the spark plug on a known, good ground spot - I typically use the studs that hold the front strut in place.
It helps to have a friend help you with cranking.
Pull the fuel pump "ENGINE" fuse or pull the relay plug going to the fuel pump on the steering column or pull the fuel pump plug in the rear - this prevents fuel from shooting into the engine.
Crank the engine and verify spark.

L1 and L2 fire at the same time - as long as ONE of them fires at the mark, you're good to go.
T1 and T2 also have the problem with "weak" spark, and most times a timing gun will not pik up either.


-Ted

 

Hey Ted,
I appreciate the help. Again, this helps me grow in a more technical aspect of the "Rotary Realm". Thanks for the input and knowledge.

-turb'd