Best place for aftermarket coolant temp senor
#2
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Put the sensor for your new, more accurate (presumably) gauge in the same spot as the stock sensor.
The stock sensor (and the hole, obviously) is some bizarre British pipe thread- 1/8 x 28, IIRC- and most aftermarket sensors are standard pipe thread- 1/8 x 27.
I haven't had a problem with the 1 thread per inch discrepancy and consider them interchangeable.
Others may disagree.
The stock sensor (and the hole, obviously) is some bizarre British pipe thread- 1/8 x 28, IIRC- and most aftermarket sensors are standard pipe thread- 1/8 x 27.
I haven't had a problem with the 1 thread per inch discrepancy and consider them interchangeable.
Others may disagree.
#7
talking head
on s4/5 engines, front plate , cas side,, 1/3 up from sump is a pipe bung into the coolant galleries
you can replace this with a bush suit your new sender or you can tap the pipe bung to suit
you can replace this with a bush suit your new sender or you can tap the pipe bung to suit
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#9
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (16)
If you are really concerned about cooling buy two coolant gauges and sensors and put one before the radiator and one after it. Then you can tell if something like changing the air path to the radiator or the radiator itself make a difference. 210F is a good temperature to maintain.
#11
Apex Seal Treachery!!!!!!
iTrader: (13)
How ironic, I was about to start my own thread asking advice between the best of two places on my radiator. I already have the front of my water pump housing tapped for either temp gauge or electric fans switch.
I need a second spot so that I have both temp gauge and electric fan control....and don't want to loose my OEM gauge. Redundancy is safest.
I have a Koyo radiator and just today I found that my drain plug and air bleed are very close to matching my gauge sensor. My question is which spot on the radiator would be best. I'm guessing air bleed because that's the point it will be the hottest.
I need a second spot so that I have both temp gauge and electric fan control....and don't want to loose my OEM gauge. Redundancy is safest.
I have a Koyo radiator and just today I found that my drain plug and air bleed are very close to matching my gauge sensor. My question is which spot on the radiator would be best. I'm guessing air bleed because that's the point it will be the hottest.
#13
Apex Seal Treachery!!!!!!
iTrader: (13)
I have my waterpump housing tapped for the gauge sensor/sender.
I have to decide between the Volvo two speed setup or do a single speed control. If I do a single speed I'll use a Summit Racing 3/8" NPT switch.
#19
Manual Rack
iTrader: (50)
Its hard to see but if you are using a n/a engine tee the sensor into the thermowax? (i forgot) coolant line with some fittings (cost of fittings was under $6) The sensor is roughly in the middle against the firewall in my picture.
This was absolutely the quickest and easiest way to me to do this. I am using a prosport temp gauge, and im pleased with it.
This was absolutely the quickest and easiest way to me to do this. I am using a prosport temp gauge, and im pleased with it.
#21
I the main reason i want to add this gauge is too make sure i don't have a coolant leak on my trip back to FL. i am told that i my have a coolant leak, however the tech was unable to find it. my coolant was low. but i think it was because i didn't bleed the system correctly. i firgued the gauge will help me out. because my stock seems to read colder then it should. about 1/4 cold i think. pro gauge has adapter for the 1/8 BSP.
#22
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (16)
The stock gauge is accurate enough to tell you when you're so low on coolant your engine is at risk. Plus...there should be a "low coolant level" sensor that will turn on a dash light when the coolant is low. It's on top the radiator and has two wires coming from it. I'd keep a gallon of distilled water in the car until you find the leak or are sure there isn't one.
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