PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I had just busted my mount about a month ago. Replaced it and then i got under the car the other day cause I started hearing a noise again. I look and half the mount is torn. I want to get a mount that isnt going to rip, tear, bust, break or anything. I have tried looking but didnt find any that seem alright. I dont want to put a used one in again and it last a few weeks. I havent been drifting or doing hard lauches or anything like that. It is the LSD diff idk if that makes a difference on the mount. Its also a S4.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Install delrin rear diff mount bushings. That'll keep your front mount from tearing itself to pieces.

Might as well install a pinion snubber while you're at it. There's a writeup you can search for.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

for now, flip the rear diff bracket ring upside down. Will support the rear better. Some japanese companies make rear diff bracket rings for that purpose but you can just flip the original.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Flip it with it being half busted? I dont think i get what the rear diff bracket ring is..

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

i meant the 2 brackets at the rear of the diff, they are like large washers with rubber on them. I dont know what they are called. Flip em upside down so they support the rear.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Alright and flip the ones holding the diff or the subframe? are you talking about the crown type rubber thing?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

yeah that thing at the rear diff.. Flip em upside down so the hard metal part is up against the diff arms.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Alright ill do that here in a little bit. I gotta wait for rain to let up. Is there a easier way to replace the mount? I might have done it the hard way but it seemed like it took forever.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Like others have said, delrin rear bushings for the ears, mazdatrix competition front mount, and a pinion snubber properly spaced will give you the best results...

As far as I know, the easiest way is to drop the whole subframe....

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I will try that set up.where does the snubber go? i searched earlier but didnt quite find anything..

lonetlan

Here is the pinion snubber install. Same in vert and hatch. You may need a buddy, if not than don't forget to wash your hands.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I should put the snubber on after I replace the diff mount right? or does it matter?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Then they collapse and allow the diff to make even more noise

powrdby13B

Disclaimer: flipping the rear mount or in any way reusing a partially broken part is NOT a permanent solution but in fact a short term and temporary solution which will allow you to drive to your local Mazda dealership and pick the part up and back, at which point you will need to fix the car properly

Mazdatrix sells diff mounts -> http://www.mazdatrix.com/G8DiffMnt.HTM

But from the description of the problem, it sounds like you are talking about the front mount. Are we talking about the cylindrical shaped mount or the one with the long arm sticking out from it?

And you shouldn't need the snubber if you replace the part.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

If you're willing to handle a little more vibration, MMR sells delrin diff bushings.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I am talking about the front mount. I thought I added that in the original post. Sorry guys.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Is the competition mount better? I would think so and it would cost more.. is it cheaper becasue it doesnt have the weight block? I am going to order the competition one more than likely..

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

If you're constantly breaking the front mount, you need to look at the rear mounts as well. It means the rear mounts aren't doing their share of the load bearing, sending it all to the front mount.

If you replace the front mount with a beefier unit, you'll eventually rip off the subframe bracket that it bolts on to. It's happened to two cars that I have owned so far.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Follow everyone elses advice including mine and replace those two rear bushings (they are allowing the diff to move up and down too much at this point), get a better front mount (mazdatrix comp is fine as long as you do the rears and snubber), and do the pinion snubber. You will never look back at this thread after doing that.

By the way, the weight block can be transferred from your old front mount. No big deal.

See my build thread in the signature....

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I would replace all the mounts with mazdaspeed competition mounts (same one as the mazdatrix one)

corksport sells them in a kit:
http://www.corksport.com/product-32496.html

and installing a pinion snubber wouldn't hurt either, it's cheap and pretty easy.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

+1 on the pinion snubber.

I replaced my front diff mount w/ the mazdacomp, and the rears w/ MMR . I wanted to do the snubber at the same time but the lames @ summit took a month to send them (and then they were wrong) Now under very low speed acceleration, usually in reverse. I get a very slight clunk. I guess it could be my unbolted swaybar, but somethign tells me otherwise.

Just do it right the first...err.. thrid time

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Im going to order the kit from CS, along with a snubber. Its such a pain in my opinion to replace it but ones its done right it should be good. I appreciate the help guys.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

you can get a pinion snubber locally , if you guys have pep boys, in the aftermarket suspension department they are bump stops

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I was planning on going to either o riellys or advance auto parts since they are closest but a pepboys isnt much farther. ill check with them first

TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

i dont get why you can get solid sub frame and rear diff mounts but no front diff mount? doesnt really make sense to me. has anyone found a better solution than a pinion snubber?