87 tii want to reinstall my ac !
I have the most horrible lucky 7 pulleys !

I am looking to purchase either stock pulleys or something better .

This will be a race purposed car but I am not so concerned about weight and would like something that can handle some racing as well as a ac unit !

Kinda lost here and can't find much info on this !

 

You won't find much info on "racing turn signal upgrades" or "braided steel washer nozzle hose" either. Primarily because, much like racers who don't care about weight but do care about AC, they don't exist.

I think stock pulleys are your only reasonable option.
RobXX (and others, probably) has converted to more modern ribbed belts (not sure if he runs AC or PS though) through some arcane wizardry with j-spec pulleys off cars that don't exist here but I believe he "knows people" and probably sold some children to acquire the parts.

 

hey quick question here on the topic of reinstalling ac: does the system use a separate sub harness? or is it incorporated into the engine harness?

 

braided steel washer hose. classic

 

there really isn't a lot of info. there are three belt styles. stock is a v belt. the FD and some of the upgrades run a serpentine belt. i think there must be some alternator amp to belt size chart, and the FD's 100amp alternator moves it from v belt to serpentine. there is also the gilmer style, but i don't see the point

you have stock pulleys, which are stock.

then there are Mazdaracing/ebay ones, which seem to be just aluminum versions of the stock ones, might be underdriven, not sure.

racing beat offers a dual belt pulley that will work with the stock a/c p/s pulleys.

KSP/FEED and Atkins have serpentine belt kit. the JDM one works with the stock a/c p/s pulleys, but no airpump.

the JC cosmo had a serpentine belt water pump pulley that has an FC offset, you can use the cosmo main, or FD main pulley, but a/c and p/s need to also be serpentine style, which is a whole lot more work than needed.

 

Can you even change the ac pulley?

 

Hmm braided steel washer hose I will take 60 feet would be handy and don't worry about it if I can find what I need I will make a post about this project ! All I am asking is does anyone know of a kit that will suite my need here ? Or do I have to pay a machine shop to do it for me ?

 

I promise when this works out you will see a lot of fc racers with ac!

 

No, there is a clutch in it that turns on and off when your ac system decides

 

"that's a COOL car you got there!"

YES!..yes it is..lol!

 

HAH! Got eeeeem!

 

The atkins pulley and belt set will retain the AC by still having a V belt for the compressor. It just gives the ability to use serpentine belts with the stock water pump and alternator. I does not retain the air pump!

 

Thank you walker that is what I needed sounds like a winning combo my friends
next is finding the right Shapeople condenser and moving it away from the engine bay !

 

^^that may be tough, considering the condensor needs a fan as well. maybe the trunk? also, ac lines are not all that cheap to make, iirc. there are kits available though to make your own. not sure what they cost or how reliable it would be

 

Yup another e fan and there are pretty cheap near me

 

Isn't racing about being competitive? Why build a "race-purposed" car that isn't built to race?

Or are you building a street car that you will occasionally track?

 

Nope it is simply for my pleasure no one else's

 

I rather enjoy making problems and solving them I enjoy driving fast on occasion as well

 

hsilive i have a gilmer pulley set on my "racecar" and i am trying 2 install my ac system back on the car so your not the only one that wants some comfort on a race car.

 

Thanks ! I have some ideas but just had to spend all my savings on my biz dang I will continue to post as I progress

 

Here is where I am having trouble understanding the point of this...

The compressor bites off about 10hp or more while running due to mechanical draw and the 10 or so amps used to latch the magnetic clutch.

Secondly, any time you go over a specified amount of engine load (I think the threshold is 30%ish) the clutch will disengage. It will also disengage at high RPM for obvious reasons. If you are racing the car, you are probably meeting the above criterion most of the time.

Of course this is the Factory set operation. Don't know how that works with a stand alone.

 

I have to imagine that we are not talking about real racecars, but street cars that are occasionally tracked.

 

If that's the case why not keep the factory V belt pulley setup. It's ugly and convoluted, but it works just fine. Also, I am confused by why people delete the air pump! On an S4 with emissions removed okay but, on an S5!? The air pump takes almost no power to operate. If you don't believe me, take it off and rotate it by hand with your other hand covering the discharge hose, I did this when servicing my water pump just for curiosity. Even more unbelievable is taking that off disable everything that the S5 does to make more power than the S4!

 

lol, here goes:
cosmo ribbed pulleys ( rest of cosmo pulleys are v-belt, so no use there )

the following mounted on a modified factory manual steering equipped FC bracket:
FD ribbed tensioner
FD ribbed compressor ( get the lines to go with this you will need the fittings )
Cut the lines and have -an fittings welded to the factory fittings from there you can have a hose shop make you custom hoses, less then $100
You need the bracket modified for the FD compressor because the bolt pattern is a little different, if memory serves me right at least one maybe 2 holes dont line up to mount the compressor to the bracket

Make sure if you have aftermarket ECU you jump the factory wiring so the AC will trigger, and make sure if you have electric fan it triggers to come on once the AC comes on.
I bought a brand new FD alternator so it came with the correct pulley on it otherwise you need a pulley- you will also have to shim it a bit to line up right.

 

Not really. Other than the aux ports being opened by air pressure from the air pump, the only other thing using the air pump is the VDI valve in the UIM. With all these wired open the S5 will still make more power than the S4 above 5000rpm where the VDI opens when functional. Of course this setup does effect the low end power.

Anyway I too wouldn't care to have a ribbed style belt setup like the FD. How does that setup work as far as the belt slipping on the water pump at high rpm's like a single V-belt does?