BDC

It was after the fact. Alex took those videos during the first couple days before it was calibrated correctly. The 20* across the board advance test (done by reducing 20 out of the Trigger Angle on the Haltech) was done in cruising to see if it'd light up and it did. Obviously Alex was told not to boost it and was told to set it back afterwards.

B

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Look, when the cars on the dyno and hook up the knock, see how fast it actually reacts. idk why you act like its the end of the world all the time. so what if it dont work..what do you got to lose $50, **** i think when i drive my car i spend that in a day in gas easy.

BDC

That'd be the test. I figure it's better than nothing. It's not just possible but highly likely to have a motor make a smattering knock racket that you won't hear so at least this thing gives you a bit of an edge in seeing it. After all, it's only $50 and pretty simple to wire up. Might as well give it a shot. It's worked on one car so far. I plan on having it when I go to the dyno.

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

TitaniumTT take it to the pms keep the chatter off the thread please.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

See the way i looked at it is, it dont have ONE 1 ONE single LED that all of a sudden goes BRIGHT. it has many, So if it detects knock on say the 2nd/3rdish bulb i would figure thats enough to detect knock on the single red one, let oof the throttle there...

BDC

That's pretty much my guess. The $64mil question is whether or not there's enough practical time to react when one sees the lights light up like a Christmas tree prior to the motor getting nuked.

Slow Rotor

Geese man after months still no dyno time? I thought all that was left was fine tuning it up to 30psi? Can we get a vid of it hauling *** down the road? I wanna hear it!

BDC

Yeah, I know, and you're not the only one askin' about it. Part of me thinks I might be biting off more than I can chew by trying to run this much boost. Not only am I wanting to install that little knock meter but I'm also eyeballing some ignition options to ditch the factory FC stuff. I've been told that the stock ignition hardware is exceptionally strong for a stock car but that doesn't truly tell me how far I can take it especially since on this setup I'm using so much alcohol in place of gasoline. I'd like to find a coil solution for both leading and trailing and perhaps some sort of dual channel CDI box for the non-wastespark leads.

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D Walker

iTrader: (1)

I dont know if it helps, but I ran FD coils using a Mitsubishi V-6 ignitor running e-85 and it worked perfectly, never missed even when it was so rich it literally was off the widebands scale (below 7.99/1). Unfortunately the FD ignitor is like $400 bucks last I checked and not often found laying about in the used parts bin, while V6 Mitsubishis litter the countryside.

I have condidered using a Dynatech ignition box on the leading coils, but just have not needed to. Yet. I have however used them on many e-85/e-90 cars making over 600 and even 1300awhp and have had zero ignition issues.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Im have 2 crane S2 Hi-6 boxes with 4 Crane lx92 coils. I haven't installed anything or even really looked at installing the setup yet. What i have done is install a few dynatech boxes. The one i fittle around with runs 4 ls2 coils i believe. so far the mixture has been off the charts rich many many times with no failure. I mean off the scale rich for many hours. many WOT pulls ....oh good ol' road trips.

BDC

On my setup I'm still using two FC trailing ignitors and four trailing coils. No CDI boxes anywhere. I really think I ought to take a good look at it and put some more ferocious ignition in given what I'm trying to do with this damn car. A car I worked on a couple years ago had the Lx92 coils. Never got a chance to really tune the car and see what it'd do but from what I understand they're a powerful coil. My first thought is to replace just the leadings on mine and use two boxes (one per coil I'm assuming) but a part of me also says to do something with the trailings as well. Perhaps just the change of coil itself would be beneficial aside from the boxes. Know of any CD box manufacturer that can handle four individual coils?

B

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, Alex, we're well past the warning point per the following post blasted in this very thread...I've bumped up the text size and underlined in blue the relevant point that has led to the vacation...no PM will be sent.

rotordad

Try M&W ignitions & MSD for CDi boxes

http://www.mwignitions.com/
http://www.msdignition.com/default.aspx

I not sure if I would put too much faith in that knock box, but it's not my car. As for results doesn't seem like anytime soon I guess. Are you going to test where it is now or are you going to move on with a different ignition set up then test?

BDC

Eh, I'm tempted to just go ahead and beef the thing up. I s'pose I should've done it a long time ago given what I was trying to do then.

Does M&W make a good coil? I'll start first with replacing the four factory coils with something beefier.

B

rotordad

Not cheap, but probably the best on the market. Is the car together now?

BDC

Yep it is and running. Any opinion on Crane ignition products? I see their PS91 and LX92 Fireball coils.

rotordad

Nope never used the crane products, so can't say one way or the other.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

This thread (post# 59)
https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/703rwhp-34psi-pump-fuel-water-only-injection-863250/page3/

And talking to him threw PM and hondahater threw Pm they convinced me lol.

i just realized he has 2 boxes just on one side. idk weather to make a new thread or just ponder on it for a while. i was going to try and run 2 boxes, 4 coils. IDK if its even possible bc i never looked into it. just bought the stuff and that was that. If you wire the box up to the stock coils it works b/c its like wiring to 1 coil. In the instructino it only shows how to wire to one coil...idk i thought hondahater wired 4 coils 2 boxes. geeze im lost now...time to take a step back.

BDC

Thanks for the link. rx72c's ignition sounds good to me. If it works for him on what he's throwing at that motor, it'll work for me! Right on. That'll be the next upgrade!

B

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Any updates?

BDC

Haven't done anything on the red car. Busy packing up, tossing old stuff out, and giving other stuff away in preparation for our move next move. Will hit it though before too long.

Slow Rotor

So anything happen with this car yet?

BDC

Not a whole lot lately although I am about to grab a pair of MSD 6A boxes to put on the leadings. We're about a week away from moving so much of my focus is on that and not so much the car.

One of the considerations I've had is that I might not have enough ignition with all the crap I'm throwing at the motor. I'm still keeping the stock ignition coils (four trailings) but am going to tie the MSD boxes on to the two lead coils and see what happens. I've already got a tentative dyno date setup probably in April or May to spend a few hours tuning it (mainly to determine a good ignition curve in boost). I've also installed that little $50 knock box up above the wideband w/ an FD knock sensor in the rear rotor housing. It's not calibrated yet though but it works and lights up. Pretty cool.

Also had the alcohol pump checked out last week. It'd been sitting immersed in alcohol for months at a time without being recirculated and was 5 years old. It got updated along with a protection sleeve added. Pretty neat. Can't wait.

Oh, and one more thing, just for fun, nostalgia, and to yank the chain of a certain somebody on this forum, I made a new pair of wood engine mounts out of a 2x4, cut in an octagonal shape w/ a 3/4" hole drilled in the centers, painted black, and installed them yesterday.

B

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Oh Brian...if ur goin t kick th antpile, I gotta let them bite you a little.

BDC

Yeah, I s'pose.

Well, I ditched the wood mount and went to hockey pucks instead per a suggestion from a well known drag racer here on this forum. Two per side. They're great for the car. Took almost all of the chassis vibration out but still kept the engine and driveline feeling solid to the car. Glad I did it and they were $1.25 each.

Got a pair of MSD 6A boxes coming that I'll wire up on the leading coils to finally add some CDI. Moving this weekend so I doubt I'll have an actual update worth anything.

B