Battery relocation pics
05-12-06, 11:50 PM
#4
I should mention that I can pull on that strap as hard as I want, the battery isn't going anywhere. I used one of the stock holes for mounting, and drilled two more. I just used a nut/bolt/washers combo through the floor. Probably not strong enough to lift the car up or anything but definatly strong enough to hold the battery in case of an accident or whatever.
Under that battery is the stock battery tray.
I want to build a battery box but am waiting till I go to the drag strip and see what they want me to do there, because I bet they want me to do something stupid. I heard I even need an external kill switch, yay
Under that battery is the stock battery tray.
I want to build a battery box but am waiting till I go to the drag strip and see what they want me to do there, because I bet they want me to do something stupid. I heard I even need an external kill switch, yay
05-12-06, 11:51 PM
#5
why the hell would I need to install a fuse within 6" of the + terminal? It would have to either hang in mid air or be mounted to the battery since it's about 8" tall.
I do however have a 200A time-delay circuit breaker installed about a foot from it.
I do however have a 200A time-delay circuit breaker installed about a foot from it.
Trending Topics
05-13-06, 10:28 AM
#16
the + wire is pretty easy to route, the hardest part BY FAR was getting it through the main wiring boot in the firewall. I eventually figured out the easier though still nearly impossible route, I soldered a lug connector onto the end of the wire and used a coathanger to "pull" it through.
this is the writeup I used, it went as described. I used the stock battery box though as show above and mounted it to the "floor" of the bin.
My friend was taking pictures and didn't take one before it was installed.
You can't see the cable from inside the car, except the driver's side rear-panel (the panel right behind the door) doesn't /quite/ sit right at the bottom. I'd think that using thinner cable would make it fit MUCH better in that area.
this is the writeup I used, it went as described. I used the stock battery box though as show above and mounted it to the "floor" of the bin.
My friend was taking pictures and didn't take one before it was installed.
You can't see the cable from inside the car, except the driver's side rear-panel (the panel right behind the door) doesn't /quite/ sit right at the bottom. I'd think that using thinner cable would make it fit MUCH better in that area.
05-13-06, 10:37 AM
#17
that's under the hood. I have a plastic cover for that box but it's not on. I mounted it where the leading coil mounts stock since mine won't fit there anymore. (greddy fmic)
excuse the dirty engine bay and nothing being attached, car is a work in progress and this picture is just for an example!
05-13-06, 11:25 AM
#18
(Terraplane)
Originally Posted by Terrh
why the hell would I need to install a fuse within 6" of the + terminal? It would have to either hang in mid air or be mounted to the battery since it's about 8" tall.
I do however have a 200A time-delay circuit breaker installed about a foot from it.
I do however have a 200A time-delay circuit breaker installed about a foot from it.
I routed the cable underneath through the frame rail and out through a grommet.
05-13-06, 02:12 PM
#20
Originally Posted by ynkeetratr
You can install a 150amp breaker, additional 7 gang fuse block for extra accessories and a 4 gang fuse block for even more accessories. Still fits in the hatch.
I routed the cable underneath through the frame rail and out through a grommet.
I routed the cable underneath through the frame rail and out through a grommet.
05-14-06, 10:45 AM
#21
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
The clamp on battery terminals are designed for temporary use only. At the very least I hope you covered all connections with dielectric grease. But ideally you should use prefab battery cables from the auto parts store. These have cast lugs and battery terminals that seal on the wire ends and are much less susceptible to corrosion.
05-14-06, 12:31 PM
#22
^
what do you think about the lugs that you solder on the cable your self?
I just soldered my own connections( not for the 7) with a brazing torch and
solder.
seems to work just fine, and the only way to get the copper rings/lugs off would be to cut the wire.
what do you think about the lugs that you solder on the cable your self?
I just soldered my own connections( not for the 7) with a brazing torch and
solder.
seems to work just fine, and the only way to get the copper rings/lugs off would be to cut the wire.
05-14-06, 01:30 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The clamp on battery terminals are designed for temporary use only. At the very least I hope you covered all connections with dielectric grease. But ideally you should use prefab battery cables from the auto parts store. These have cast lugs and battery terminals that seal on the wire ends and are much less susceptible to corrosion.
Everything is covered in grease.
Those prefab cables are WAY too expensive.
I was going to use marine-style connectors but these have more clearance
if I wanted one in 1/0 gauge 18" long they wanted $70. I'm aware of the short lifetime that these have but I don't mind replacing them every 2-3 years.
I spent about $70 on this whole project.
05-14-06, 01:36 PM
#24
yessir
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sebring FL
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have no pictures, but I have my battery in the passenger side compartment, and the postive line runs over to the driver compartment then goes through the floor and follows the brake lines to the starter then it hits the starter and keeps going to the fuseblock in the engine bay.
05-14-06, 01:42 PM
#25
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Gainesville, Georgia
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Terrh
Everything is covered in grease.
Those prefab cables are WAY too expensive.
I was going to use marine-style connectors but these have more clearance
if I wanted one in 1/0 gauge 18" long they wanted $70. I'm aware of the short lifetime that these have but I don't mind replacing them every 2-3 years.
I spent about $70 on this whole project.
Those prefab cables are WAY too expensive.
I was going to use marine-style connectors but these have more clearance
if I wanted one in 1/0 gauge 18" long they wanted $70. I'm aware of the short lifetime that these have but I don't mind replacing them every 2-3 years.
I spent about $70 on this whole project.