Just for searches or whatnot. Almost looks like a factory install IMO!

I used /really/ thick wire.

 

 

so did you install a fuse within 6 inches from the battery + terminal?

 

I should mention that I can pull on that strap as hard as I want, the battery isn't going anywhere. I used one of the stock holes for mounting, and drilled two more. I just used a nut/bolt/washers combo through the floor. Probably not strong enough to lift the car up or anything but definatly strong enough to hold the battery in case of an accident or whatever.

Under that battery is the stock battery tray.

I want to build a battery box but am waiting till I go to the drag strip and see what they want me to do there, because I bet they want me to do something stupid. I heard I even need an external kill switch, yay

 

why the hell would I need to install a fuse within 6" of the + terminal? It would have to either hang in mid air or be mounted to the battery since it's about 8" tall.

I do however have a 200A time-delay circuit breaker installed about a foot from it.

 

what the hell? If you dont like criticism, then dont post it.

 

Shorter the better, but I go with the IASCA (car audio) standard of 18" from the terminal.

Looks good!


-Ted

 

I wasn't taking offense, just pointing out the impossabilities of mounting a fuse block within 6" of the terminal

 

the stock fuses are about 18" or so from the battery. why does his fuse have to be 6"??

 

OK lets get off the topic of the 6" fuse thing.. I didn't want my thread to become a flamewar!

 

that looks like a vented battery. i would get a sealed, lightr one

 

Now let's see it without the storage bins

 

Pic of under the hood now?

 

i never thought of the storage bin for battery, nice one

i would also sugest a sealed battery

 

how is the + wire routed? can you tell?

im about to do the same relocation myself, looks like it fits real good

 

the + wire is pretty easy to route, the hardest part BY FAR was getting it through the main wiring boot in the firewall. I eventually figured out the easier though still nearly impossible route, I soldered a lug connector onto the end of the wire and used a coathanger to "pull" it through.

this is the writeup I used, it went as described. I used the stock battery box though as show above and mounted it to the "floor" of the bin.

My friend was taking pictures and didn't take one before it was installed.

You can't see the cable from inside the car, except the driver's side rear-panel (the panel right behind the door) doesn't /quite/ sit right at the bottom. I'd think that using thinner cable would make it fit MUCH better in that area.

 

that's under the hood. I have a plastic cover for that box but it's not on. I mounted it where the leading coil mounts stock since mine won't fit there anymore. (greddy fmic)

excuse the dirty engine bay and nothing being attached, car is a work in progress and this picture is just for an example!

 

You can install a 150amp breaker, additional 7 gang fuse block for extra accessories and a 4 gang fuse block for even more accessories. Still fits in the hatch.
I routed the cable underneath through the frame rail and out through a grommet.

 

^ Niiiiiiice

 

very nice job!

 

The clamp on battery terminals are designed for temporary use only. At the very least I hope you covered all connections with dielectric grease. But ideally you should use prefab battery cables from the auto parts store. These have cast lugs and battery terminals that seal on the wire ends and are much less susceptible to corrosion.

 

^

what do you think about the lugs that you solder on the cable your self?
I just soldered my own connections( not for the 7) with a brazing torch and
solder.
seems to work just fine, and the only way to get the copper rings/lugs off would be to cut the wire.

 

Everything is covered in grease.

Those prefab cables are WAY too expensive.

I was going to use marine-style connectors but these have more clearance

if I wanted one in 1/0 gauge 18" long they wanted $70. I'm aware of the short lifetime that these have but I don't mind replacing them every 2-3 years.

I spent about $70 on this whole project.

 

I have no pictures, but I have my battery in the passenger side compartment, and the postive line runs over to the driver compartment then goes through the floor and follows the brake lines to the starter then it hits the starter and keeps going to the fuseblock in the engine bay.

 

I have a 74 Bronco I use to rock crawl and I am running two Optima's, I went to the local over the road truck parts store and bought my cables; much cheaper on their pre made cables.