So I got my greddy FMIC in.. for being "the best kit out there" it fits... but not quite!

I can't mount my leading coil, fuse block or battery in the stock location lol.

Fuse block and leading coil are easy to move, but the battery.. hmm.

I searched but didn't find any good FC writeups, did find a nice FD one though.

I've got two options for where to put it from what I can see, the passanger storage bin (probalby what I'm going to do) and the spare tire well (ruins polar moment of inertia, but best weight distribution, especially for launches at the strip). I think I'd take the slight weight tradeoff in return for better handling though - and it being that far back will help regardless.


Thoughts?

 

Oh, you gotta be kidding me, right?

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BATTRELO/battrelo.html


-Ted

 

hey ted, stfu. fc3s pro was down last night, I checked there first!

you're the man, btw. I'd paypal you a buck right now if my paypal account wasn't overdrawn

 

haha don't worry about it.
Yeah, the hosting company has had server issues for the past couple months, so please bear with the connectivity problems.


-Ted

 

Yeah I wouldn't put it in the spare tire well. That would only increase a problem the FC already has which is snap oversteer. I don't really know of any other good options except for maybe using a small braille battery in the stock location.

 

Im gonna thread Jack if you dont mind!! Any better ideas for being clean with the connectivity in the front of the car like a junction box or something to that nature where it makes the wires less noticable. Im sorry but this is one things that bothers me and mine looks horriable so I would like to see what some others have done with theres.

 

I dont agree with you guys... putting it in the back really isnt gunna hurt your polar balance. seriously even a non aftermarket battery only wieghts what? 12lb? I have 2 12inch subs and a full box in the back of my FC, and although i can feel it, it dosnt make some huge noticable big difference where im like "**** i suck at drifting now, cause i have TOO much wieght in the back" if anything putting back there may help to even out the weight a little.


relocating the battery is prolly just as easy as moving your fuse block and all that crap. extend wires. build battery box(I prefer the storage bin behind the seat just for the fact its sealed off decently) and install battery.

If its really that big of a deal, you could always buy that optima battery(cant recall the name at the moment) thats super skinny and small. you could mount that thing damn near anywhere

 

What about a battery box?

anyone know what the NHRA rules are for this season as far as in cabin batteries go?

I have to re-loacte mine due to the FMIC and I've been contemplating the $20 marine battery box from crappy tire, don't know if that will pass scruteneer standards though.

 

Yeah I am pretty sure SCCA and NHRA both state that the battery has to be covered and held down by bolts.

 

right on, they shouldn't have any problems with that box then.

All the inlets/otulets for cables come with grommets and it has a built in vent tube.......can't see that they wouldn't let me run with that

awesome

 

What if you use a Optima. No need for a cover then. Not sure about the SCCA or NHRA rules though. Here are some pics of my relocation, although, dont use a 100amp breaker like I did. The draw on the battery durring craknking is to strong.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/progress-thus-far-497773/page4/

 

Last time I heard, your hatch needs a 0.040" thick metal "box" to cover the entire battery.


-Ted

 

The canadian tire box WILL NOT FIT! I bought one today, and am returning it tomorrow. I totally hacked my storage bin up trying to make it fit, too

I ended up mounting the battery in the back using a modified (ground the bits that stick out at the bottom off, basically) stock battery tray. I can even use the stock battery box over it if I really desired. I am only doing this until I get to the dragstip and see what they say. I also had the same concerns as to passing tech at the track. it's all stock parts right now though, just not in the stock location! maybe they'll let me get away with it. The bin opens and closes as stock right now, the install looks like it could be factory with just thicker cable.

if not, I have a metal brake and will build a box.

For cable I went to everywhere and they all wanted like $4-7 a foot for 2 GA, and I kinda wanted thicker.

I went to a welding supply store (as is suggested in the writeup) and got 25 feet of 1/0 AWG for $67!

So now I have like, the worlds thickest battery cables.. I kinda want to have like a 2000 CCA battery or something... they feel like such overkill.

I've got the negative terminal grounded to one of the rear seatbelt holes (I think that's what it's fore anyways) and I'm going to run the + wire tomorrow.

I too am wondering what I can do to "clean up" things up front. I'd like to have a "jumper post" + wire too so I can still jump cars/jump my car without having to get in the hatch.