50 dollar paint job
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vac leak
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Rutgers
50 dollar paint job
saw this on the other forum
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=133867
was wondering if anyone tried with their FC.....im curious if the paint will stick to bumper and other non metal parts
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=133867
was wondering if anyone tried with their FC.....im curious if the paint will stick to bumper and other non metal parts
the ol' tremclad roll n' buff eh?
I've seen it done, but not on an FC
Will the paint stick to plastic? not really, it will *stick* to the paint thats already on the bumpers, providing any damage to the bumpers isn't sever enough to require sanding most of the paint off.
But what do you expect? its a 50 dollar job- foam rollers, 1/2 gallon of tremclad and 1 roll of masking tape........its not going to be miraculous.
IMHO as a bodyman, for a guy who is too cheap to pay for real bodywork and paint.......or too inexperienced to do it themselves.......its a great way to make the car LOOK decent (providing you do it right...well I guess right should be taken with a grain of salt when tlaking about rolling tremclad on your car and then wetsanding it out)
I've seen it done, but not on an FC
Will the paint stick to plastic? not really, it will *stick* to the paint thats already on the bumpers, providing any damage to the bumpers isn't sever enough to require sanding most of the paint off.
But what do you expect? its a 50 dollar job- foam rollers, 1/2 gallon of tremclad and 1 roll of masking tape........its not going to be miraculous.
IMHO as a bodyman, for a guy who is too cheap to pay for real bodywork and paint.......or too inexperienced to do it themselves.......its a great way to make the car LOOK decent (providing you do it right...well I guess right should be taken with a grain of salt when tlaking about rolling tremclad on your car and then wetsanding it out)
Thread Starter
vac leak
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Rutgers
i have no doubt it will stick to metal and the paint thats already on the car..but i dont know if its flexible enough to stand the abuse my bumper will hopefully not be seeing..i'd hate to put this stuff on and have it flake off if someone bumps me at the grocery store...i guess if no ones done this before i'll be the test mule and try it on some spots(moonroof, headlight cover, door handle etc..)
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Oscoda, MI
I just read the original post.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I'd like to see closeups of the paint, but what I saw looked quite miraculous for an expenditure of $50. However, the original author points out that 90% of the work is in *prepping* the body for paint. Fix all the dents, rust, and make the surfaces as smooth and straight as possible.
When, not if, you use body filler, use only thin coats, never more than an 1/8" (not even that if possible), and *never* use filler to repair rust; use metal and welding to repair metal panels.
Could be handy if you want to build a vehicle that's meant to be a driver (or rally car, or strictly functional) and not a show car.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I'd like to see closeups of the paint, but what I saw looked quite miraculous for an expenditure of $50. However, the original author points out that 90% of the work is in *prepping* the body for paint. Fix all the dents, rust, and make the surfaces as smooth and straight as possible.
When, not if, you use body filler, use only thin coats, never more than an 1/8" (not even that if possible), and *never* use filler to repair rust; use metal and welding to repair metal panels.
Could be handy if you want to build a vehicle that's meant to be a driver (or rally car, or strictly functional) and not a show car.
Thread Starter
vac leak
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Rutgers
ohh yeah...i dont expect this to win any contests...strictly a DD job but i do like the white(as well as other colors) rust-oleum offers so most likely i'll try it on my rusted moonroof.. and see how it turns out before i try it on a permanent spot
hmm...now to decide what color to paint.....white looks good...but so far i've seen too many done in white....anyone recommend runrise red?
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...8&SBL=1&dds=16
hmm...now to decide what color to paint.....white looks good...but so far i've seen too many done in white....anyone recommend runrise red?
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...8&SBL=1&dds=16
Tremclad is not flexible....in comparison to urethane based paint with flex agent that is.
But really there is no need to be a "test mule" its already been tested....I can tell you that after 6 months in the sun all the upper panels will be faded and checked and require re-buffing or possibly re-coating. The paint will not flex as it should one the front and rear covers...and anywhere its touching raw plastic will blow off with the lungs of an infant...
But for the actual money spent - its worthwhile - but you have to figure...say you go the full nine yards, you do you body up nice - repair some rust here and there and have the car prepped for a nice paint job.........you've probably put 100 hours into that.........now, you're goign to cover that up with **** paint that farmers use to hide the raw, rusted steel on their plows? IMHO, its not worth it - but if you just wanna coat the car then it is.
But really there is no need to be a "test mule" its already been tested....I can tell you that after 6 months in the sun all the upper panels will be faded and checked and require re-buffing or possibly re-coating. The paint will not flex as it should one the front and rear covers...and anywhere its touching raw plastic will blow off with the lungs of an infant...
But for the actual money spent - its worthwhile - but you have to figure...say you go the full nine yards, you do you body up nice - repair some rust here and there and have the car prepped for a nice paint job.........you've probably put 100 hours into that.........now, you're goign to cover that up with **** paint that farmers use to hide the raw, rusted steel on their plows? IMHO, its not worth it - but if you just wanna coat the car then it is.
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Originally Posted by cluosborne
I just read the original post.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I'd like to see closeups of the paint, but what I saw looked quite miraculous for an expenditure of $50. However, the original author points out that 90% of the work is in *prepping* the body for paint. Fix all the dents, rust, and make the surfaces as smooth and straight as possible.
When, not if, you use body filler, use only thin coats, never more than an 1/8" (not even that if possible), and *never* use filler to repair rust; use metal and welding to repair metal panels.
Could be handy if you want to build a vehicle that's meant to be a driver (or rally car, or strictly functional) and not a show car.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I'd like to see closeups of the paint, but what I saw looked quite miraculous for an expenditure of $50. However, the original author points out that 90% of the work is in *prepping* the body for paint. Fix all the dents, rust, and make the surfaces as smooth and straight as possible.
When, not if, you use body filler, use only thin coats, never more than an 1/8" (not even that if possible), and *never* use filler to repair rust; use metal and welding to repair metal panels.
Could be handy if you want to build a vehicle that's meant to be a driver (or rally car, or strictly functional) and not a show car.
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 122
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From: GJ, CO
Originally Posted by mrivera
i was thinking doing that.. eh.. not too sure anymore. it doesn't shine too good as you can see in the pic of the orange car.
Originally Posted by OMGWTFBBQ
I guy i know did it on a 240fb
looked pretty bad...
looked pretty bad...
The roller trick *can* be made to look decent, but just don't expect the paint to hold up for very long........unless the car lives in a cyrogenic chamber
Originally Posted by mrivera
i was thinking doing that.. eh.. not too sure anymore. it doesn't shine too good as you can see in the pic of the orange car.
Yah, not too shiny, maybe needs lots of buffing IDK. It's $50
Originally Posted by blackb15
Might just be the lighting. You can clearly see a nice reflection on the drivers side of the car. Here is a good pic showing how shiny it can get:
Makes the car look like plastic. That EK looks pretty good though..
Last edited by LAN; May 9, 2006 at 03:59 PM.
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: GJ, CO
Originally Posted by classicauto
Probably didn't sand the orange peel out all the way
The roller trick *can* be made to look decent, but just don't expect the paint to hold up for very long........unless the car lives in a cyrogenic chamber
The roller trick *can* be made to look decent, but just don't expect the paint to hold up for very long........unless the car lives in a cyrogenic chamber
All Rotor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: fl
Originally Posted by eatmyclutch
I second that. I demand closeups.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...&fpart=29&vc=1
Originally Posted by rotorforce
LOL Numbers guy painted his civic with rustoleum, and it looked like ****!
You gotta realize it's a $50 paint job
Better than spray paint.
Have you guys used White Out?
Yah, put white out on a paper and when it dries. Rub it with the shell of your fingernail. It gets shiny.. reminds me of using this TREMCLAD/RUSTOLEUM ...
strike up the paean
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,495
Likes: 2
From: fort lee, nj
number guy was dumb because he used what was recommended by rustoleum -> acetone. rustoleum is supposed to dry all rubbery and ****.
using mineral spirts is what allows the rustoleum to harden instead of just becoming a rubbery mess.
this originated not from club4ag, but from a mopar board.
are you talking about the idiot who tried to paint it two tone? that guy did not follow instructions. he just painted on one thick layer of the stuff. don't even think he mixed with mineral spirits.
using mineral spirts is what allows the rustoleum to harden instead of just becoming a rubbery mess.
this originated not from club4ag, but from a mopar board.
Originally Posted by omgwtf
I guy i know did it on a 240fb
looked pretty bad, I'd rather have rattle can flat black
maybe he did a shitty job though, I dont think he sanded it enough
I'll try to find pics....
looked pretty bad, I'd rather have rattle can flat black
maybe he did a shitty job though, I dont think he sanded it enough
I'll try to find pics....
Rotary Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,181
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From: USA
Originally Posted by blackb15
Might just be the lighting. You can clearly see a nice reflection on the drivers side of the car. Here is a good pic showing how shiny it can get:
Rotary Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,181
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From: USA
from the mopar thread:
"Keep in mind i know a little about painting, i've shoot a few cars with single stage enamel with professional results, but it's expensive and tedious. I used duplicolor paint, primer, reducer and primer sealer on this car:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00194.jpg
it looked like this before paint:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg"
"Keep in mind i know a little about painting, i've shoot a few cars with single stage enamel with professional results, but it's expensive and tedious. I used duplicolor paint, primer, reducer and primer sealer on this car:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00194.jpg
it looked like this before paint:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg"