Battery help please
#1
Battery help please
first my rad now my battery. i drive a 91 FC NA and my battery wont hold a charge whatsoever. it cranks but wont turn over. i hear the clicks (i think coil ignitors). i flip up my lights and they try to flip but really slow or they turn on but don't flip at all. im assuming its the battery and hope it isnt the alternator i get jumped and it works but the second i turn it off it wont turn on and all the lights get dim as if they don't have full power. my battery has the cells to fill with distilled water and they are low so i will try to fill it and see if that works. but any help will be greatly appreciated as this is my only car
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The alternator has a thick gauged Black wire which is the output voltage wire. W/the car running it should read at least 14 volts.
If this checks out okay then you'll want to check the connections to the battery and perhaps clean them and retighten.
The battery ground (negative) will run to the driver fender and bolts to it to provide a body ground. You might want to clean and retighten this connection as well.
If this checks out okay then you'll want to check the connections to the battery and perhaps clean them and retighten.
The battery ground (negative) will run to the driver fender and bolts to it to provide a body ground. You might want to clean and retighten this connection as well.
#4
Hey...Cut it out!
iTrader: (4)
Satch wasn't quite right, so I've included a passage from the Second Gen FAQ:
As for your specific symptoms, the "click" you hear is the starter solenoid attempting and failing to engage the starter. My car does the same thing due to my ignition switch being original (11/11/1986!) and showing its age by having more resistance than it should. Result is that the starter solenoid doesn't get the juice it expects. Some owners wire in a relay to correct this as follows:
Pin 85: To Starter's S Terminal wire
Pin 86: Ground
Pin 30: Fused Constant 12v+ source
Pin 87: To Starter's S Terminal
As for your cables, I have one simple formula that works every time:
Proper RX-7 Grounding Procedures
Separate the stock alternator output and fuse box cables, then follow Aaron Cake's guide to the letter, while giving your car Marine Battery Terminals.
Battery Positive to Starter: 48"
Battery Negative to Main Chassis Ground: 24"
Main Chassis Ground to Engine Ground at Starter: 24"
Battery Positive to Alternator: 30"
Chances are that your alternator is on the edge of "okay" and "dying". If your engine running voltage is under 13.5, it's shot. you can upgrade to a FD Alternator by getting the correct pulley from Mazdatrix as spelled out here in the FAQ:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/
When measured at the battery terminals, it should read:
Key Off (battery voltage) 12.6v
Key on: 12.5-12.6
Cranking (engine turning over): 10.0 or greater
Engine running: 13.5-15.0v
Key Off (battery voltage) 12.6v
Key on: 12.5-12.6
Cranking (engine turning over): 10.0 or greater
Engine running: 13.5-15.0v
Pin 85: To Starter's S Terminal wire
Pin 86: Ground
Pin 30: Fused Constant 12v+ source
Pin 87: To Starter's S Terminal
As for your cables, I have one simple formula that works every time:
Proper RX-7 Grounding Procedures
Separate the stock alternator output and fuse box cables, then follow Aaron Cake's guide to the letter, while giving your car Marine Battery Terminals.
Battery Positive to Starter: 48"
Battery Negative to Main Chassis Ground: 24"
Main Chassis Ground to Engine Ground at Starter: 24"
Battery Positive to Alternator: 30"
Chances are that your alternator is on the edge of "okay" and "dying". If your engine running voltage is under 13.5, it's shot. you can upgrade to a FD Alternator by getting the correct pulley from Mazdatrix as spelled out here in the FAQ:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/
#5
The weird thing is is that it would always start up every time no hessitations at all. I drianed the battery when I installed the oem fogs since I left the headlights on for a few hours because I forgot to turn them back off. But I jumped the car and all was fine for a few weeks then I was going to head to work and the battery was dead so I got jumped again then after work it was dead again. Thw final jump and I make it home no problem and I park turn the car off and try to turn it on right away and it was dead as if it didnt charge at all.
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#8
heres a pic of my battery just in case. dont know if it will be of any help. i dont know if its the original one from the factory or not(doubt it). the terminals are a bit chewed up looking but it was working fine. also they are unbelievably soft(read they are lead) so im gonna pick up some better ones.
its funny because i feel a love hate relationship with this car. i love it to death but hate when things go wrong as they normally would on a car as old as me. i guess what i mean is i love working on it and hate it at the same time if that makes any sense LOL.
its funny because i feel a love hate relationship with this car. i love it to death but hate when things go wrong as they normally would on a car as old as me. i guess what i mean is i love working on it and hate it at the same time if that makes any sense LOL.
#9
Just bought a new battery. Swapped the old one for a Bosch 51R and all is well. It started right up no problems. In fact my windows seem to go up and down a bit faster now. Will still be checking everything though for good measure. Thanks all for the help.
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