ok I just brought my battery to autozone to check it and right of the machine said bad! So I said ok and bought another battery, however this battery was quite a bit smaller than the one I had but the computer said that was the one, so I said cool and bought it then stuck it in my car. Well I"ve been trying to figure out if the injectors are bad or the wiring so I have the uim off and the secondary injectors in the primary location, tie strapped in with cups underneath each one. Well when I went to crank her I turned it to the on posistion and all the lights lit up etc.. however when I went to turn it on the car just clicked once and all the lights etc... shut off. I then had to get out and unplug the battery and plug it back for all the lights to come back on. Tried it again and the same thing happend. Is this happening because the new battery is smaller? THanks.

 

Are the batteries charged??? What does your multi meter say the voltage is??

Make sure you don't install the battery backwards. Remember the negative battery lead is the one that goes closest to the headlight and the positive battery lead is the one next to the shock tower/fuse box.

 

brand new battery with a 12v readout on my multimeter and I have black (negative) and red (positive) battery terminals so I don't install them wrong

 

is it still 12 volts when you turn the key on???

How about at the main fuse??

 

dont wana steal your thread, but the other day i was trying to figgure out about the wire going to my starter, checked it and it read out at 14.something volts, do deep cycles make that much of a difference in voltage? btw, im running a optama yellow top deep cycle
too tired to spell right

 

hey icemark, I've come to the conclusion that I am slow I used to be able to put the terminals on the battery without having to bolt them down and I would get a constant 12v everywhere however with this battery the posts where a little smaller so I was getting 12v at the battery posts but only 1 to 2 at the terminals so as soon as I bolted them down it all worked fine,

 

Dude, what are you doing to that poor car, lol? Did you accidentally short any wiring while rigging up the injector thingy? Is the starter good?

Just because the battery's smaller shouldn't matter (HOW small are we talking here?)

What about jumpering the check connector to get the pump to run with the key on, then putting 12v on the injector to get it to fire, think you could do it? Wouldn't check out the whole system like you wanted, but it's a start...

 

hey wayne check my post up above

edit: after I bolted the batery terminals down I checked the injectors and they worked fine! So now I have to move toward maybe some sort of wiring issue with the secondaries.

 

What kind of voltage are you getting with the car on/running?

 

Man, you're impossible

OK, I KNOW you know where the ECU is, but I'll tell ya this one more time...Put a meter on the dang secondary pins at the ECU, and go for a drive. Three things you want to watch for:

1) You should have system voltage at each as soon as the key is turned on, and should have alt voltage there with her running. This means the wiring is GOOD...

2) When the secondaries kick in, the voltage will fall, sometimes as low as 6 or 7 volts, depending on how bad you're romping on her. If the voltage falls for both of them, the entire secondary system is GOOD. If it doesn't fall, proceed to #3...

3) If #2 doesn't work, could be ECU...Could be boost sensor inputs...Could be injectors...Could be operator error, who knows

Hopefully you won't need #3...

 

I just put the multimeter to all four injectors at the ecu while the car was on and each one is getting 13.46 volts??? is this right? I thought they where only supposed to get 12vdc? I'm going to take it for a drive in a sec to see what happens with the secondaries.