Snailz

Ok! So basically when i go to start up, turbo timer says voltage is between 6-9 volts when cranking, really struggles for abit and then fires up when it gets to 10 volts.... So is it the battery or something more sinister behind it?

And what could have caused this?

Don49

iTrader: (3)

It could be the battery is bad or just not fully charged. Check the battery voltage at the terminals with the car not running- should be about 12.8 volts. Check again with car running-should be about 13.8-14.2. If both those readings are good, I would look at a bad starter as being the problem. The ignition won't work properly at less than 10 volts, which is why it takes a little for it to fire up.

87turbo_turtle

It definitly sounds like the battery. The battery should read no less then 10volts when starting or the car will not get enough power. This is with any car. You can test a battery when there is no load and get 12-12.8volt but this does not show if it is or is not a good battery. You have not had any other problems right. (like crazy lights or radio????)

Snailz

Nah nothing else wrong. So battery it is. I'm gunna buy one, test if it fixes it at work today and if not take it back. I'll give you guys the results.

Icemark

dead cell in the battery, or poor battery post connections

Snailz

BAD NEWS UPDATE:::: Went out this morning to take my car to work(Audi dealership) so i could check the battery ect ect. Didn't start. Cars still got power everywhere, lights radio ect. But won't crank. So i bought a new battery just for safe measures and obviously didnt work. So starter motor is at fault? Currently looking for one now, found a guy up in Sydney selling for $80 each.

Now is there anything else it could be? My 1st thought when it happened was low compression? :S But somehow that doesn't feel right... It's always had abit of trouble with flooding on warm starts, but it runs like a tank when its going. So low compression couldn't just pop out of nowhere if car is running great. Or could it?

Thanks for your assistance guys. Car is doing my head in!

Go48

iTrader: (7)

If the engine doesn't even turn over when you try to start it, the problem is usually with a starting system component. Low engine compression will not stop the engine from turning over.

If the engine turns over but doesn't start, then first check the compression. And if the compression checks, then it's time to check for spark, fuel and correct timing. With acceptible compression, spark at the plugs, fuel supply to the engine and the correct timing, the engine should start. So if it still doesn't start, use the factory service manual (links to free copy in 2nd gen FAQ) charts to troublehoot the problem.

Snailz

Yeah i looked through the manual already, 1st one their was starter not turning or not turning fast enough. So replace starter it is.

On the compression issue, because i'm abit confused as to how a blown(no compression) engine would behave. So even with no or low compression, the engine still cranks but just wont fire up?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If the battery cables are bad, it will be slow to crank even with a new battery. A car that is slow to crank can easily flood.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

If an engine has little or no compression, it will actually crank faster than if it had good compression--all other things being equal. Think about it. If the rotor is not compressing the air/fuel mixture, there is little resistance to the rotating rotor.

Snailz

How would the battery cables get worn? Well if it's not the starter that will be the next point i check off. :S

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Battery cables can corrode internally, separate from the lugs, etc.

JBL

Remove and clean BOTH ends of the battery cables AND the ground cable from the engine to frame. Ditto the connections at the starter motor.

Snailz

First thing i did was clean the battery terminals and all the visable groundings. Havent had time to jack it yet so the rest can wait till the starter gets here.