I figure I would do a write up on the installation of our new FC Oil pan brace

First thing you need is the Oil Pan brace kit



Tools & Materials Required

M6 x 1.0 Tap (recommended) or Pick
3mm Allen Wrench
Torque Wrench
10mm Socket
17mm Socket & Rachet
RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

Let's assume that you know how to remove your oil pan.

First step is to clean the oil pan and engine contact surfaces thoroughly.
Clean out oil pan stud holes completely, ensuring that there is NO RTV, dirt, etc. at base of holes. Failure to do so may result in cracking of plates. We recommend using a M6 x 1.0 Tap , but you may use a pick if necessary



Next using 3mm allen wrench, thread studs into oil pan mounting holes. If you experience difficulty inserting the studs, ensure that the holes are thoroughly clean



Check Oil Pan for rim defects. If necessary, use pliers to straighten edges



Place oil pan brace on oil pan



Apply a 4 - 6mm continuous bead of RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to the bottom of the engine components along the inside of the studs and around bolt holes. Install oil pan within 5 minutes.



Install oil pan and brace as pictured, lowering onto the studs



Thread hex nuts onto oil pan studs. Torque nuts gradually and evenly to 8.9 - 11 N-m {79 - 104 in-lbf}



Using stock hardware (17mm bolts & washers), install passenger-side engine bracket. Torque engine mount bolts to 75 - 93 N-m (55 - 68 ft-lbf).



Allow to cure over night, and you are done. This is a little more difficult when you are installing the brace on an engine that is in a car.

 

I should try that. I can never get my oil pan to stop leaking. Its always wet around the mating surface.

 

Now sorry if I sound like an idiot, but what does the brace do in comparison with your oil pan (witch is pure sex by the way, very nice job guys I can't wait to get mine)? What is the cost compared to your oil pan?

 

Rotaman99- This will cure that problem, it will also help to to save your rear plate from cracking at the dowel pin landings.

Alex6969- We do not sell an oil pan.

 

Oh **** thats right, sorry it was a rough day yesterday. Either way, the brace looks very good.

 

how much does this piece cost? Im not making a ton of power (yet), but I do have a leak at the front of the oil pan that I'd like to fix.

 

This is not a "for sale" thread so I can not mention pricing. You have a PM

 

I can see how it would help to even out the pressure on the joint and help with sealing, but are you serious about stiffening the engine? I mean it'll be way more flexible than the engine to start with, so that won't really help, and if it does anything, I doubt it's enough to make any real difference.

 

The reason that it works is because the motor is like a sandwich, so it takes stress off the dowel pins and helps keep all the plates alligned because its one piece.

 

Exactly!! Thank you for answering this one for me.

 

Does that mean you'll give me a discount on one?

 

It's just a thin piece of metal (3/16" thick) with a big hole in the middle compared to these vast chunks of metal held together with many dowels and studs plus there's the compressive friction holding them stationary (that's what holds the wheels on your car). I can't see how it'd give any significant increase in stiffness, especially as it's so thin, has a hole in the middle and it isn't bolted down immediately adjacent to every joint, so if the plates move a bit it's easy for it to lift off on one side. It's probably not hard to get it to flex in your hands, so how's that going to contribute significantly to the stiffness?

I'm a 4th year Mechanical Engineering student and I seriously doubt it'll improve the stiffness of the engine a measurable amount. Now as a solution to oil pan sealing I can see it working, but not for stiffness.

 

i wonder will this work with the pineapple racing oil pan

 

That would probably depend on the flange thickness of the oil pan. If the ring fits around the oil pan and the flange is too thick you'd probably need longer studs.

 

I really don't think you'd need it with the Pineapple pan.

 

+1

The Pineapple pan has an O-ring seal and a thicker flange, so it shouldn't suffer from sealing issues.

 

The cast aluminum pans are good if you only drive your car on the track, unfortunately they are too brittle from common road debris. I also would not attach our brace to an aluminum pan for fear that the flange would crack.



As for the brace being flexible, you would be hard pressed to bend it by hand. It weighs 3 lbs even with the big "hole". Think of the brace as a splint, it gets it's rigidity from being mounted to the engine, the engine stack movement is them limited by the brace. They help each other and in turn negates the need for a 2" thick steel plate to be mounted to the bottom on the engine.



15 year UMASS Engineering Graduate & Rotary Engine Builder.

 

Chris,
I ordered the pan Friday, So your opinion is not to use a gasket? And Im installing it on an engine already installed.

I use you motor mounts and trans mounts, Thanks for making quality products.

Johny

 

Johny- We do not install oil pan gaskets as they have a tendency to blow out and actually be the cause of many leaks.

 

Thanks sorry to hyjack but is crancase ventlation necessary? Im running a 13
b-rew in an FC. Just about to get it all together stay tune for pix.

Thanks in advance

Johny

 

if you don't want a ton of oil blowing out the back then yep . I run a catch can.

i tried to explain that to my friend who blocked off the crankcase vents on his VR4 which runs 25 psi, but he didn't believe me at first... Result: insane smokeage. also blew out the dipstick.

 

You have PM