ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

ok does anyone know of/have a complete write up, diagram, or instructions on how to replace the PD with a banjo bolt. in advance im not asking if i should replace the pd with a banjo, its too late the banjo bolt is here its in my hand and the pd is coming out. ive been roaming the nets and the fourm and all i find is conversations about replacing it nothing on how to replace it. i saw reteds Q&A about it but there were no links on where to go to see a write up or anything. just a link on where to go to buy the bolt and where to write a complaint about a PD (which reted if you see this that link no longer works). so if anyone knows of/ has a complete write up on how to replace the PD with a banjo, from "which screw to start with" to "start car", please reply. again if your just going to tell me my engine will blow cuz i put a banjo in dont waste your time.

thanks guys

iluvmy3rdgen

Remove UIM if you're familiar with it, if not search. Once that is off you will have access to the FPD. I would then remove the FPD and install the banjo bolt with new crush washers. Tighten snugly. Instal UIM and "start car". If that doesn't help I'll try to be a little more helpful. Goodluck with the no FPD thing.

-Jon

arghx

iTrader: (3)

A t2 looks a little different than an n/a but the basic process is the same

a haynes manual or factory service manual can tell you how to pull off the UIM. You will need a new gasket. There are also coolant lines and other stuff you may want to replace.

the PD is on the primary rail which is closer to the engine (secondary rail sprays right into the manifold). It's a pretty big size to pull off... maybe like a 23mm or something?

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

I did this a few months back...
here's my half-assed write up with a few pics

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/replacing-pulsation-dampener-banjo-bolt-fc-damper-pd-s4-674780/

RETed

Thanx for pointing that out.
Looks like the moved the page again...
I've fixed it for now.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html


-Ted

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

You guys were great. Ive set a date to do the install, this saturday. Im going to try and steal a digital cam and do a complete write up, they kind of hard to find. Ill let you guys know how it goes, and RETed thanks for updating that link, ive filed my report and hope it counts for something. also i want to thank you, if i hadnt found YOUR write up on PDs i never would have know what the hell they were. im sorry that my new found knowledge had to come at the price of your baby, and will try to do a write up worthy of your loss.

till probably saturday night,
ja ne

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

ok well count that as partial fail. im sorry guys i was going to do a full write up on this but when i removed the UIM i found a nother 10 or so problems that had to be fixed, so no pics latter ill do a write up on just the banjo install but i started working on the car at 1030 this morning its already 730 and we havent even started putting things back in yet. there are really that many things wrong.

greg if you can read this, talk to your son, ask him if hes been out pushing the car a little bit too hard. But no complaints i bought the car as is and i fully understand that. Plus im having way too much fun fixing all the problems, and im not joking.

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

anyone seen an UIM gasket melted on?

micah

"melted on"? You mean basically glued to the surface? Thats pretty normal if its a stock gasket...

While you are under there, make sure your vacuum hoses aren't popped off.. Might be a good time to replace them as well. Most importantly, the ones on the oil injectors.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

yes yes... vacuum lines,
I replaced 3 cracked ones while I was down in mine. And cleaning and oiling all those moving parts is alot easier too when it's apart.

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

AAR:

The UIM was successfully removed, gasket removed, PULSATION DAMPER REMOVED, vacuum lines all replaced, gasket replaced, thermostat replaced, BANJO BOLT INSTALLED, front rotor housing cleaned with A/T fluid(sat for 6.5 hours), spark plugs replaced, 50/50 replaced.

Successes: Banjo bolt installed, PD removed. all vacuum hoses replaced, front rotor housing cleaned, constant smell of fuel is now gone(while driving).


Fails/Unknown: Still leaking fuel, still have little to no acceleration, still cant idle, top speed still 60 MPh.

Basic layout of current situation, nothing has changed except that i dont constantly smell unburnt fuel. So now im completely lost, and have nothing to go on. Unless someone tells me other wise im going to replace my primary fuel injectors, in a couple of weeks.

As we had a series of bad things befall us, one after another, i will not be posting a write up today or tomarrow but as we did actually swap the banjo, and all the vacuum hoses and such, i will be posting a "pop hood" to "start engine" write up, by the end of the week.


also if you want to replace your vacuum hoses, go buy 15 FT of 5/32 vacuum hose. also please remember not to use vacuum hose for your fuel lines, your fuel lines will need HIGH PRESSURE hose and the vacuum hose will not cut it so dont try it, its bad when you go into an auto parts store and have to teach the clerk this, needless to say i wont be returning to that store, not for a while anyways.

alright guys i think im done here. I am going to leave you with a couple of questions though.

1. Very low power all around(poor acceleration, low top speed)
2. Fuel still leaving the system remarkably fast, (PD replaced)

if you guys know any trouble shooting tips that might help me fix this problem that would be cool, im kind of dead in the water here.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Step one: Check your compression. Could very easily have a cracked apex-seal or other internal damage. Don't do anything else until you know if your engine is good (or bad).

micah

What in the **** made you think that cleaning with ATF was a good thing? ATF *WILL* destroy rubber seals... Its okay to use it if you are going to start the car immediately afterwards, but letting it soak is the worse possible scenario.

In all cases, 2cycle oil is a better choice.

gnicoson

Not really sure how he was driving it; I never saw him pushing it and he's not really into cars at all. I originally bought it thinking I could fix it if he broke it, but after I checked it out when I bought it I really didn't do anything myself to the car until he told me it was down on power. I did a quick check with a standard compression tester and discovered that the front rotor had much lower compression than the rear and basically stopped there thinking that I was probably looking at rebuilding the thing or finding another S4 engine. I didn't find an engine for a decent enough price and with another S5 TII project car sitting there already with another S5 TII motor in the garage to rebuild I came to the conclusion that I didn't have enough time to do justice to both cars. That and I finally bought an RX-8 as a daily driver.

Every 2nd gen that I've owned eventually cooked the vacuum lines and I second the comment that the gaskets usually end up that way. I never pulled the UIM off of that car, so I'm not surprised that the gasket was cooked on there. I do know that the car was the first 2nd gen that never threw a code for the whole time that I had it.

I'm glad to see you having fun working on it and I hope you can use all the parts that came with it. It's always nice to see an RX saved from the junkyard!

Greg

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

OP, if your compression is low on the front rotor as stated, it's cheaper to open the engine up now and just replacing the soft seals, measuring wear, cleaning the carbon off, and going from there. If one of the hard seals goes (i.e. apex), it'll become more expensive in a hurry. Just my thoughts. You'll have good access then to all hoses and lines.

Once you know that's good, focus on fuel and ignition then.

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

hey im having a blast fixing the car, only downside is i have to wait another two weeks to be able to buy the injectors.


were also planing on replacing the the fuel filter when i go back under the hood, also will redo the A/T fluid treatment. we noticed a significant power gain shortly after we finished, but before we finished burning out the build up we turned the car off and started cleaning the area so we could take the car out for a test drive. the car was off for about 1.5 hours before we actually got on the road, when we started the car again the power gain we had was gone all of a sudden ). we also decided to go ahead and do both the front and rear rotor housings this time. we will also be doing a check up on all the new vacuum lines to make sure they all still in place, and cleaning the K&N air filter, as well as an oil change.

If the new injectors dont fix my problem, im going to be looking for a right side front clip and im going to go crazy with the car, and ill rebuild the original motor for later, or sell it.