i got 2 leds in the green connector, and i have to turn the throttle reverse for the 1 led to blink once, but the other doesnt do anything anywhere in the throttle.

i hooked a volt meter to them, i have no voltage on either connector going up throttle, but yet again, if i go reverse throttle they both go to battery voltage
does this mean TPS is bad?
i can hear 2 different solenoids clicking during the reverse movement

the car surges 1200-1600 after complete warm up, and misses like a dead plug below 4200rpm
(has new plugs/wires too)

 

The led technique is not the most accurate method for setting the TPS. Checking for voltage (1 volt) from the G/R wire of the TPS is the alternative choice and this would be done with a fully warmed up engine while running.

 

so ground on volt meter to ground, and red on volt meter to the green/red wire on the tps?

ok just checked it, still missing, 1800rpm warmup up, 1.3v from green/red to ground
anything else to check?

 

What is the output of the green/red wire when the engine is NOT hot? Say it's been sitting a couple of hrs.

What is the output of the green/red wire when the engine IS hot?

Write back telling us what the two are mentioned above.

Do you know what the waterthermowax MOVES when it alternatley cools/heats up?

The movement of the TPS plunger is what makes the relief and switching solenoids click. THAT is one of the functions of a TPS. Other people for quite unknown reasons think the TPS adds and subtracts fuel as it moves. Why? Got me why they think that.

 

i dont know the measure of cold, ill report back after while.

after it warmed up i held it at 4000rpm for a minute then it idled jumping 1200-1600, voltage was 1.1v

i head something does with temp. also, i dont know if this helps any, when i rev it to 2k and it idles at 1100rpm for 7 seconds, it smells like its running pig rich

 

i hate double posting
i took a ohm meter to the BAC and AWS
BAC was 12.3 ohm, the aws shooting over 133.4ohm, every time i checked it

 

Next time it's hot and idling high.............put the car in gear while idling and slowly let the clutch out a bit to drop the rpms. When the rpms get below or around 800rpm, put the car back in neutral and see if the rpm stay under 1000rpm or not.

TPS 1.1 vdc and engine hot? Then turn the screw.......anti clockwise til the meter reads 1vdc. I'd think it'd take only about a turn anti clockwise. Pretty sure about the direction.

If you turn the screw clockwise the plunger extends more meaning more voltage output. Yeah. That's right.

If it reads 1vdc and the idle still humps.............ain't the TPS. I'd look for air leaks or such or something holding the throttle primary plates open a bit. LIke the piston of the water thermowax not seperating it's fast idle cam and roller.

 

automatic, and anytime theres a load, or revd it drops and surges
what screw exactly?

also, cold, tps is 1.8v

 

oh, the surging is the ICV, tap it and it stops surging, but its still acting like its missing

 

ok, i still have an oil leak lol. i changed all the struts today and ran it up the road hard. i came back and found smoke coming off the car, opened the hood, coming from the driver side, smells like oil
but the oil and auto trans are both still full, any ideas? i cant tell where its leaking

 

anti clockwise, oh HAILERS you crack me up, maybe you were searching for "counterclockwise" and the word eluded you.
In any case....

i have nothing to contribute.

 

thats ok lol, i got it adjusted to 1v
also, i was wrong about the oil
turns out the battery side into the power steering pulley and melted the battery away....the smoke was plastic and acid...