satch

iTrader: (1)

When checking for continuity you "don't" want the key to on for you could possibly damage something in testing. There are different things to check to isolate your problem and one of them is to disconnect the ground from its source (where the other end connects to) w/o compromising other grounds and rig up another ground that you could touch to its terminal at the back of the plug if possible so when you turn the key to on you could check if the relay clicks or not. Trying to get it to click in its normal resting place should be your primary goal here. If the temporary ground does not work and the other wire, B/W wire, is still providing 12 volts then the plug is at fault somehow for its not passing on the either the voltage or ground or both.

EDIT: Actually as far as the ground is concerned all you need to do is add another one to the back of the plug with the other one intact at both ends. Not really necessary to remove the existing ground where it makes contact with the body, just add one additional one.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I didn't see this post so disregard my previous one. The plug in which you speak of that has other black wires I believe are other ground wires as well and very well may have to be grounded as well. Let me see if I can find some info on these wires.

EDIT: Connector jc-01 has a diagram in the upper right in the link below. This should be what you found.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...9&d=1226499521

Focus on post 28 and 29 of this link: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+voltage+coils

satch

iTrader: (1)

I believe this is the plug you found and it shows where it "should" be connected so I would do just that.

HAILERS

************************************************** *********************

On the AFT side of the left strut tower is a six prong outfit that is bolted to the tower. The six wire connector with all black wires goes to that six prong outfit. One of the six gnd wires in that plug goes to the MAIN RELAY and is required for the Main Relay to pull in. The other gnds on that six wire plug go to various outfits like headlights. Seems I described this gnd point on another thread recently.

longisland87rx7

First off thank you satch and hailers i appreciate your time,,
Okay well i dont know where that connector on the strut tower has gone haha.. so i will ground all of those out would this also explain why it high revs and then drops and shuts down i hope?
because shes firing up now about timeeeeee haha and now i see why my head lights stopped working a while back and i see why my tail and front signal markers are on when ignitions turned..
What can i do about adjusting idle and the tps and rich and Lean when the car just shuts down after hanging out at around 3000rpms for a few ?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure I can help with your remaining problems but are you saying that now that your car starts but it shuts down after a few minutes? Try regrounding the group of wires first and then proceed from there.

longisland87rx7

yeah shes firing up finally and she jumps up to around 3K rpm and sits, then drops and shuts down..
I'll give it gas and it'll pop down and it will rev but its not able to sit at an idle..
She sounds good and clean turbo sounds nice.. nice to hear the old greddy rs bov been a while haha
I'm about to ground the rest of that connector harness out and see if the idle is trying to act a little bit more stable..
Also I would like to order some new injector connectors but they seem difficult to find it seems.. the pig tail has to fit this injector..
they are not the center notch..

cccccccccccccccccccchttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Fue...item5d262bd520

longisland87rx7

i grounded out the those wires..
and I swapped fuel rails to a set that i knew i had a good fuel pressure regulator on and pulsation damperer on and she idles now a lil bit but it will idle highhh at like nearly 3 K Rpms ill bring it down a lil bit with the throttle by hand and she'll die.. I was running through my hanes manual and it doesnt talk about the tps in full but im sure it needs some adjusting..
Also when revving it up to about 4k it back fires a bit but the car feels like its not responding well when i hit the gas kinda sluggish and holding back also my turbo manifold seems to be a lil bit smokey i know its on there tight and with a good gasket but it smells kinda like anti freeze doesnt seem to be gas.. maybe its just burning some sort of liquid residue thats on it..I just hope that the cooling system is working properly and circulating to the turbo because i didnt have it running that long and everything was hot quick.. i forget if that was common its been a while.. So thats where im at..I'll do some more research on fine tunning the throttle body..

longisland87rx7

im running into problems of coarse my problem is im using and s4 uim and a s5 lim and my vacuum lines are messed up not sure if im doing this the right way.. if i put the s5 uim on whats gonna happen to the air supply valve? I no longer need it ?

satch

iTrader: (1)

This above my head but try using the advance seaerch feature for assistance.

1. Click on search link located towards the top of page.
2. click on advanced search when the small search page pops up.
3. Top left of advance search page enter what you are looking for in the "keywords" box
4. Toggle down to bottom right of advanced search page and scroll down to 2nd generation specific to narrow the focus of the search or any other forum necessary.
5. Click on the "search now" button located at the bottom of advanced search page.

longisland87rx7

yeah thanks Ive been doing that ..unfortunately not my problem lies in my throttle body.. i finally got my tps to be around 1 k ohm's and but when i start the car it revs high and just sits there and any other screw on the throttle body isnt doing **** to drop the rpms.. all though there no surging going on any more but its just sitting at 3 k and just seems like i've play with too many screws on the throttle body..I'm gonna have to get an indept look at whats going on this TB.