longisland87rx7

When i put my battery terminals on the battery i hear a click coming from the air supply valve and vibrating the bac and with out the ignition key turned the battery drains badly right in front of me.
I just installed an s5 t2 engine into an 87 body s4 t2 wiring which i have torn apart looking for any messed up wiring..
I found the o2 sensor wire kinda bashed up with the bac wires i spliced in new wires and its still happening..
I tried starting it last nite and it didnt fire up just yet..
The battery started to drain again even shot some starting fluid in the intake and its just cranking just not firing so ive decided to pay more attention to this electrical issue ..
I now have every harness in the engine bay unwrapped down to bone follwing the bac and no issues and checked for all other wires under the hood..
Could my ecu be bad? is there a one shot way to show if your ecu is shot?
I tested the bac and its ohming to specifications and i ohmed out the asv and thats with in range too..
I also read about that injector wires have no polarity going to the connectors so i spliced in new wires because previous owners chopped them up a bit.. so that shouldnt be an issue I dont think?
Sorry to bother everyone with this but hopefully some one can helppp

longisland87rx7

i also had to jumper the main relay to recieve power to the coils and injectors Im not sure if that has anything to do with it..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Jumpering the wires of the main relay was done to "check" to see if your main relay was the culprit in your problem. By jumpering the 4 wire plug of that relay you are taking constant voltage from the B/G wire and passing it on to the B/Y wire which supplies your coils and injectors and jumpering the W/L wire to the B/W wire supplies constant power to your emissions harness which explains why your BAC is receiving power with the key to off. You should not have these wires jumpered for a period of time for it was done as a "check."

longisland87rx7

okay wow i thought i was able to leave it that way i miss read that one.. but ive switched to another main relay and i'll still recieve no power to the coils and injectors no blipping..do really need to get my hands on a third relay or what else may be behind this?

longisland87rx7

thank you satch for responding i really appreciate your help

satch

iTrader: (1)

Since there are two wires that feed the main relay with constant voltage you would not want this voltage constantly being distributed to the engine. The main relays job is to pass the voltage onto the B/Y wire and B/W wire when you turn the key to "on or better" and only then, otherwise the relay will not do that and there's a good reason for that. I can't remember your exact past responses, but the two wire plug which feeds your main relay which has a B/W wire in addition to the B wire that the B/W wire has 12 volts when the key was turned to on and the B wire was properly doing its job as a ground, then the problem is the relay.

longisland87rx7

yeah im getting battery voltage to the B/W wire and proper ground to the B wire on the 2 pin connector.. and two of these main relays are not working then.. is there another way to test the main relay? to double check? i dont want to buy a new one and still have it not work .

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you read voltage from the B/W wire in the 2 pin plug are you reading voltage from the side that plugs into the relay where the pins slide in or from the other end?

longisland87rx7

from the engine harness side not the relay side

satch

iTrader: (1)

I guess it's possible that the 2 pins under the relay are not coming into contact properly with the plug so maybe cleaning the pins and putting some dielectric grease into the 2 wire plug might help but it is a long shot. If it does you would know because the relay will click when the key is turned to on. You could have the key turned to on and then plug the connector to the relay and listen for a click and then remove the plug and listen for a click and then replug it in and listen for a click.

longisland87rx7

i tried putting in the other relay on again and spinning a spare CAS by hand with the key on and no spark or injectors popping.. i just cant believe that two of these dont work.. I'm on the verg of getting another one unless theres something else i dont know about..

longisland87rx7

yeah these connectors are clean as a button..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Aren't there two slots on the top of the plug? I would put the grease in just for the heck of it. Do you know anyone close by who has a RX7 that could lend you the relay for a brief time?

longisland87rx7

well i just ordered one off a used running car so thats good haha 27 bones as soon as i get it you'll know what ill be doing and i hope to god thats the last of my problems for a bit and have it back in action finally and you know i'll let know the results and hopefully its a for a good thing and not a bad one because when im pulling my hair is when i come out on here and sell my sole to the devil on the internet to have the rx7 godds save me haha thank you for your time satch..

satch

iTrader: (1)

One thing you could do is take the relay, plop it down on top of the battery and take two wires and connect one end of the wires to your battery and the other ends to the two terminal to the proper pins of the relay. Just remember which pin would get the B/W wire voltage and which gets the ground signal and then listen for a click.

longisland87rx7

unfortunately i've lost all my rx7 connects scince ive been on my wankel break..i wish i did though..

longisland87rx7

im gonna try that straight up like u said direct connect.. i even opened up the relay to unvail the guts everything seems to look fine there too coils in it looking clean a post in the middle with a wire on each side both connected

longisland87rx7

okay update i did the direct connect for both relays and they both work dead on to the battery clickk..so i ordered one anyway with hopes that was it but it definately wasnt.. so whats my next step? follow all the wires that connect to the main relay and see if somethings damaged? or for some reason not hooked up right? see if some wires have cross pollinated?even though ive never tinkered with these wires and they worked on the last engine..?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what this means exactly. Are you saying they both click when hooked up to the battery directly? If this is the case then the plug with two wires is not making good contact with the pins of the relay. Since you said the B/W wire from this plug had voltage with the key to on and that the ground wire was properly grounded then this could be the only issue that makes sense.

longisland87rx7

i'll look at it little more in depth early tomorrow but if directly on the battery i hooked up both main relays that i had available, directly to the battery and they both responded with a clicking sound when attached to the battery and clicking when disconecting you think my connectors arent making good contact.. I'm pretty sure there in good shape but i'll doublt check and let u know i have a feeling it isnt going to be that simple haha..
This car is making me backstroke every part of it and testing me and now others lol

satch

iTrader: (1)

All the relay requires to click is voltage and a ground. Before removing the relay from its home it was not clicking. Is this correct? I am not familiar with the plugs on the relay as far as their shape is concerned because I personally have not had an issue with that part. But if you removed the 2 wire plug is it possible the plug could be reconnected in a reverse manner such that the B/W wire is not connected to the B/W pin but connected to the ground pin instead? If this is not possible then I would if possible disconnect the ground wire from the non plug end and test it for continuity by placing one lead of the meter to the removed end of the ground wire and connect the other lead to the plug end of the ground wire and with the meter set to ohms check what it reads. Should be zero or very close to it. If it reads much higher then there is a break in the wire and it's not doing its job of grounding which would preclude the relay from clicking.

longisland87rx7

it was not clicking in the engine bay aka the home front..
But when hooked directly to the battery it clicked..
yeah i did check for a ground it did seem to be fine @ 0, but I will double check everything early tomorrow morning and see if i didnt get a proper reading..
And no theres only one way for both or these sets of wires can go the way the clip is designed so no room for error with that part of it..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Since you determined they clicked at the battery did you get a chance to return one of them to its nest and see if it clicked when plugged in and the key turned to on?

longisland87rx7

nah its still not clicking in the engine bay bolted up.. so i checked this ground and when i put it on the ohms lowest setting it starts off with a one and then when i check it still tells me one..and this is with out the key on or anything.. what does that mean and where does this wire recieve its gound from exactly? I'm going to follow this line till i hear back from u or i find something and i'll let u know thanks satch

longisland87rx7

so it didnt take me long to follow that B wire on the two pin connector and it goes to a connector that doesnt connect to anything its a 6 pin connector white in color and it has 5 black wires going to it.. may have hooked up to something emissions wise which i dont infact have they have been removed..
So i cut the wire brought it straight to ground and what do u knowww CLICKKK..
I didnt experience this problem on the last engine drop very odd..