w00t

iTrader: (-1)

I have a T2 with all NA running gear. Not getting fuel or spark. No power to the fuel pump, only 2.77V to the blue wire on the pump. Tried check for power to the fuel pump relay but I do not know the pinout. Car as every piece of emissions removed and not much of the sensors(water, oil, etc) are hooked up. Can they cause no spark or fuel if not hooked up?

All grounds are good that I've check, block is grounded, body is grounded, power to the fuse box and alt. so right now I'm stumped.

Car turns over too, so I just need to figure out why it's not getting fuel or spark.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Just did a little more searching, got to check the ground on top of my engine and my ENGINE fuse in the interior and will report back!

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Ground on hte EFI harness is good, ENGINE fuse is good

rx-711

iTrader: (2)

i had this same problem was checking everything to find out it was a bad sensor grounding everything out. are you getting 4 v to the pressure sensor.

heres my thread hailers helped me with, giving me every possible way to check

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/please-help-no-spark-fuel-794888/

arghx

iTrader: (3)

have you used the fuel pump check connector?

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Well it's a combination of a few things I found out. Hardwaired my pump and still nothing so that's bad. I have no power going to my injectors so I'm assuming my ECU ground is bad also. I still need to finish wiring up my sensors and see if that does anything.

HAILERS

The fuel pump relay is called the CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY.

It's located above the steering wheel about where your knees are. Yellow in color if I remember right. Pull the relay out.

The black/white wire is in the middle socket. Key to ON and it should have power.

But now you need a ground on the coil to pull it in. That comes from the afm's internal switch OR the fuel pump check connector that is yellow, two sockets near the pressure sensor. You jumper it to put a gnd on that Circuit Opening Relay.

There's another coil in that relay that can pull it in and feed the pump. It's the black/white wire in the corner. It could also be black/red depending on the model car. THAT wire only has power if the key is HELD to START.

So, if you have power on the black/white wire, then the fuel pumps BLUE wire will have power IF the yellow check connector is jumpered or the afm vane is shove aft at least a 1/8'' or more. OR the large BLUE wire will have power IF the key is HELD to START.

No power on the black/white wire with the key to ON???? Well, it works like this. You turn the key to ON. The ignition switch sends batt power to the fuse box in the interior to feed the row of fuses that are with the ENGINE fuse. The ENGINE fuse sends out batt voltage to the MAIN RELAY and the Circuit Opening Relay on a black/white wire.

The Circuit Opening Relay gets powered up and feeds the fuel pump. The Main Relay pulls in and feeds power from the EGI fuses to the coils and the ECU and injectors.

That was for a non turbo car. For a Turbo car, it works the same, but the output of the Circuit Opening Relay goes on to a Fuel Pump Resistor Relay before going to the fuel pump. That is located on the bulkhead in front of the air filter assy. On series four cars, this is only found on a Turbo car. I don't really know what the car is (chassis, turbo or non turbo?) so I'm not going any further.

By the way, the moderators will punish you if you use a members name in the thread title. Get ready for the firing squad.

HAILERS

I think your going to find the problem is the Main Relay isn't pulling in OR the EGI fuses are bad. Makes more sense than any thing else.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Check the main fuses, all good. The car is a S4 T2 with a S4 NA engine in it, T2 drive train, NA running gear(ECU, EFI harness, atmospheric sensor, pressure sensor, AFM, etc.)

I've read your response to another thread that had similar problems to me with the ohms read out of the main relay, I'm going to try that tomorrow and see if it's good.

Would the sensors not being hooked up cause it to not get any spark? I don't have my oil pressure sensor, water temp sensor, water thermo, etc. hooked up.

I had a bad ground on the sending unit body, cleaned that up and I'm getting 12v to the pump now, but it's still not feeding anything so I'm swapping that out tomorrow with a new pump because this one has been sitting a while.

Assuming that fixes the fuel problem I have to figure out the no spark problem. What is the voltage/ohms supposed to be for the coils? I want to check if they're getting power first, and narrow it down after that.

Tomorrow I'm going to hook everything else up and see if that helps anything.

HAILERS

The sensors you mention have nothing to do with spark.

The water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing MUST be installed for the engine to start worth a darn. It helps control the amount of fuel delivered by the injectors during the Start cycle and later on when the engine actually runs.

You should go to the MAIN Relay and pull its two plugs off. On the two wire plug, you should have batt voltage on the BLACK/WHITE wire with key to ON. If you don't, then the ENGINE fuse isn't feeding that wire OR the ignition key is not feeding the Interior fuse box when the key is to ON. One or the other.

The other two wires on that Main Relay plug won't have power. They're output wires. Don't bother them.

Then look at the four wire plug on the MAIN RELAY. The BLACK/GREEN and the WHITE/BLUE should have batt power. If not, then the ENGINE bay fuse box isn't putting out from the EGI fuses. Simple as that. So you'd check those fuses for being any good. IF good, you'd pull them out and see if there is power on one leg of those fuses. The front leg IF the fuse box is installed right and not 180* out.

That might be the problem. See if the headlights will go up/down and light up or not (called a CLUE). No key needed for that. IF they don't go up/down and their fuses in the engine bay fuse box are good, then the cable b/t the batt positive post and the engine bay fuse box isn't feeding the fuse box.

To check the coils, all you have to do is pull the TWO WIRE, WHITE IN COLOR plug off the LEAD coil assy. One wire is black/yellow. IF the key is to ON, it should have batt voltage. IF not, then the MAIN RELAY isn't pulling in OR the ENGINE fuse isn't being powered up for the reasons already listed. See diagram attached above.

Don't waste a moment looking at the Trail coil assy. It's a more or less useless item and does not effect starting at all.

I'd start with the SMALL, WHITE, two wire plug on the LEAD coil assy. IF no voltage, I'd go next to the MAIN RELAY and work it from there. The coils didn't suddenly go kaput all by themselves. They just are not getting fed power from the white, two wire, small plug at the lead coil assy.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Everything else works. Headlights go up and down, don't know if they turn on because they're not plugged in at the harness, but the headlights go up when i turn the lights 'on'. All interior lights work, all blinkers, hazards, etc. etc. I did take a gamble putting the fuse box in, but I'm assuming I got it the right way.

I'm getting power to the fuse box, already checked that. Will check leading coils today and go from there.

Got a few more things to install before the engine can actually stay running under it's own power, but I still should of seen spark when cranking for a few seconds.


My friend came over last night and used his audi(?) detector, the little LED light thing you plug into the injector clip and when you turn it over it should light up, which it's not. So I'm not getting power to my EFI harness, atleast not to the injectors. Going to check out the pinout for the CAS and see if I'm getting power there also.

HAILERS

0k, the engine bay fuse box is ok then.

I'm also curious about what year and type this car is? Like a 87 non turbo chassis??????? If it's an early 87, then you might make sure the Soleniod Resistor Package is plugged in. Only used on cars prior to June 1987. Located about a foot below the afm/filter. Bolted to the fender and has an aluminum cover and a large round electrical plug with Five wires. They/it feeds power to the injectors.

Key to ON, all the injectors should have power on ONE of each injector plug. Only the Primarys will pulse when starting. Secondarys won't pulse during starting or idle. The batt voltage will be there on the secondarys, but the pulsed gnd from the ECU won't be there.

If you had the harness off the engine and disconnected from the ECU, make sure you have all the plugs reinstalled on the ECU AND have both of the ORANGE plugs also reconnected. The ORANGE plugs are just inside the passengers compartment.

If you used a TURBO harness on the engine, and connected it to the Front harness inside the passengers foot well, then you should have made some minor changes to that TURBO EM harness so it will work with a non turbo front harness.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

The chassis is a 87, early 86 build date. Engine is from an 88. NA harness, ECU, etc. Everything is plugged in by the ECU, all orange connectors connected. Solenoid resistor IS plugged in. Main relay is getting power but I can't get any power from the connector going to the Leading coil.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

I'm going to go out now and see if I'm getting any power at the injector connectors. Going to pick up a new fuel pump today from a friend because mine isn't doing anything even with it hardwired in.

HAILERS

Well, if you have power on the black/green wire and the white/blue wire at the MAIN RELAY, then either the MAIN RELAY isn't pulling in OR it's internal contacts are not making.

It's a straight shot from the MAIN RELAY to the small,white, two socket connector at the LEAD coil assy. No connectors inbetween.

You NEED to go to the two wire plug of the MAIN RELAY and see if you have batt voltage on the BLACK/WHITE wire when the key is to ON. IF you don't then the MAIN RELAY won't pull in and feed the coils. So you HAVE to look at the BLACK/WHITE wire at the two wire plug of the MAIN RELAY. See the jpg I attached of the MAIN RELAY etc. You can see that it has to pull in for you to get coil voltage and or injector voltage.

You could jumper b/t the B/W and W/L wires and the B/G and B/Y wires at the MAIN RELAY four wire plug, and THAT would power up the coils and injectors. Then go start the car.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

I'm getting power at both connectors of the MAIN relay, and I'm also not getting fuel too. Swapped out the whole sending unit and still nothing. Which is weird because I'm not getting any power from the white connector on the leading coil.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Anyone? I really need this thing running!

HAILERS

Tell me the COLOR of the wires that you have power on, at the MAIN RELAY.

Should be the Green/Black and the White/Blue on the four wire connector. IS that what your talking about? And do you have power on the BLACK/WHITE wire on the two wire connector or not?

It's this simple. If you have power at all three of those wires, then I suggest the MAIN RELAY is not pulling in or the ground wire is kaput in the two wire connector.

Even simpler, jumper the BLACK/WHITE and the White/Blue wires in the four wire connector to the OTHER two wires in THAT connector. Now see if you have batt voltage on the white, two wire connector at the LEAD coil assy.

HAILERS

Just in case, this is what is meant by jumpering the four socket connector at the MAIN RELAY.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

I have power at all the wires you told me to check on the MAIN relay. I should have a spare main relay I will try, to see if that does anything.

I will use a jumper on the 4 pin in a little bit tonight to see if I get power to the leading.

How many volts should I be seeing at the LEADING with the key on 'on'?

HAILERS

Whatever the battery has on/in it.

You check the BLACK/YELLOW wire as shown in the diagram. The OTHER wire in that connector is to be ignored.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

Alright, because I was able to get like 2-3V from the leading coil, that's it though. Batt has 12.3 coming out of it.

And yes I am getting full voltage from the B/Y

HAILERS

The small, white, two wire connector, when pulled apart, has 12vdc approx on its black/yellow wire, when you check it?????

I don't understand where your getting the 2-3vdc????

The yellow/black wire feeds the coil pack. See what I mean?

Did you do this with another Main Relay or by jumpering the sockets in the Main Relay plug?

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

With everything plugged in normal, I was only able to pull 2-3V out of the 2 pin, white connector, on the B/Y wire.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

I also tried the holding the AFM open trick to get the fuel pump to work, I hear the circuit opening relay click(I assume that's it) but still nothing