Ok after removing the rat's nest I forgot to plug the little bitch back in and the car ran fine no hesitations or stalling. I still have power steering and a heater. I ran the car with all the stuff on( high beams, heater, full blast, hazards, rear defroster, brake depressed and, shifter in reverse, and the interior lights on) did not even want to stall. My question: can I run the coolant line from the TB under the UIM and to the front of the engine without problems? I plan on making a block-off plate for this and the cold start noid. Would I have to worry about anything else?

Thanx

 

You can do that if you want, my NA engine has that done exactly, just running it under the manifold and a block-off on the bac.

 

Cool


Thanx!


Oh an my car today shot a two footish flame.
I was showing my friend and BOOM!!!! he said it was just white not yellow or blue like the ones I saw. That is awesome.

 

Oh what would you all suggest for removing the connectors that are left over? I was planning on cutting them off and putting a dab of RTV on the bare wires so they don't contact each other. Would that work? Any other "cleaner" methods you all can think of I would like to hear.

 

Zip tie the spare connecters down to the main wiring bundle. Dont cut them off.

 

Then eventually, reloom your harness entirely and remove everything you don't use and replace wires that are old and dead, but that's only if you're extremely into it!

 

I like to think of myself as "really into it" I don't know what the difficulty level of that would be though. Maybe I could do it in sections over time like a month and one section of it a week. Is there a write-up on that? link?

 

Not many people have reloomed the harness (basically taking the harness out of the car and taking the wrapping off and replacing the wires/removing those that aren't needed) And since it's a rather difficult job, I'm doubting there's been a really good write-up on it, I'm going to be doing it on my GXL soon, and the NA as well when i run the megasquirt ecu.

 

Its pretty self explanitory. Mark the spare plugs around the engine bay some how, cut off the stock wrapping, remove the wires that are connected to the spare marked connecters, rewrap and reinstall into car.

When you rewrap it I suggest using that black tubing crap (forget what its called) then wrapping silicone tape on top of that. Also while you are doing this take the time to replace any damaged/cracked wires. And do this one wire at a time.

 

Ok I already have a block-off plate done for the BAC I have some questions though: WHat about the large vaccume hose that connects to the BAC? Do I just cap it? and what about the other thing that hose connects to? I have not found it "YET" on the FSM but want to know if I can remove it or not? How would I block something that large off? I have some RTV can I just fill it with a bunck of the silicone and let it cure?

 

there are no vacuum hoses on the bac. Two coolant lines. Do the tb mod and run a 3/8 coolant line from the back of the water pump housing to the rear end plate of the engine. Both are hidden under the UIM.

 

OK I have an 87 N/a on the BAC there are two coolant hoses and then there is a large rubber hose comming from the big hose on the intake. DO you get what I am saying know. Maybe a TII does not have that but N/a's do.

 

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2ndgen/manu...systems_na.pdf


It is on the FSM on page 4A-62

I believe under Fuel and Emmissions control systems. ther is a pic of the BAC and the hose/pipe that I mentioned is on the top right hand corner.

 

OK I figured out what the other thing does. It is called the Air Bypass selenoid. It helps the BAC when the car is cold. This means I take it off with the BAC right?

 

BUMP!!!

 

I belive so, the air bypass silnod is supposed to give you that 3000 rpm startup assist...I still have it on my car but don't have the 3000 rpm assit ???, I run around with my BAC unpluged but it still seems to effect the idle when I turn the screw.....not sure if I'm ready to remove mine...

 

well i am taking them off. How would you all plug the holes left from the air hoses? This is an N/a remember.

 

Just because I don't want to make a new thread;

Would there be any problem with drilling, tapping, and blocking off the coolant passages the BAC uses, instead of re-routing the lines? I'd prefer to know they're sealed w/ bolts, instead of having more rubber I'd have to replace down the line.

 

1987RX7guy: for what it's worth I'm not sure about the vacum hose from the bypass air control valve. I do know that you need the one that goes to the intake tube.

Liquid Anarchy: I don't know if I would drill and tap the coolant line going into the block unless the engine was apart...for obvious reasons, but you could drill and tap at the water pump without to much work.

Hope this helps,

mothership

 

It's possible, though running it under the intake is a lot easier, sure it's one more hose, but definatly easier! I've been running without a BAC for about 3 months now, my car's as bare block as you can get :-D

 

what the heck??

This thing is hella old. lol

Anyways I already took the BAC off months ago. I routed the hose under the intake.

 

Yeah, Anarchy brought it back from the dead asking a question.

 

Hey SonicRat do you have any pics of your motor? Im contemplating removing my A/c and BAC, and what to see what it all looks like.

 

Yep, here you go!

 

Hey sonic where did you hook up the FPR? I hooked it to the vaccume nipple just under the BAC but you have that capped? whaere did you rout that to?

Santiago