awr rear camber links, locking things down?
08-13-14, 09:57 AM
#1
awr rear camber links, locking things down?
So I bought some rear camber links that are very similar to awr, mazdatrix. The top block is threaded so the height can be adjusted on the car, and a lock nut at the top to lock down that adjustment. My question is with the bottom. There is a lock nut that can tighten the bottom block to keep it from moving or sliding. I contacted the seller and he said you can leave the middle locking nut out.
Wouldn't removing that middle nut out possibley cause positive camber in certain situations?
If I used that middle locking nut to hold the bottom should I torque it down to keep it from moving or should I just screw the locking nut just enough to allow it to rotate, but not allow the bushing block to slide upwards?
I remember reading about people removing some lock nuts in these type of adjusters, but I wasn't quiet sure
Wouldn't removing that middle nut out possibley cause positive camber in certain situations?
If I used that middle locking nut to hold the bottom should I torque it down to keep it from moving or should I just screw the locking nut just enough to allow it to rotate, but not allow the bushing block to slide upwards?
I remember reading about people removing some lock nuts in these type of adjusters, but I wasn't quiet sure
08-13-14, 10:39 AM
#2
Josh18_2k's advice:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10797409
you need the nut on the lower block because it's not threaded so the nut is the only thing keeping it in place.
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10797409
Originally Posted by josh18_2k
AWR/Mazdatrix:
dont use the jamnut on the upper block. as the suspension cycles, the upper and lower blocks rotate slightly with respect to each other, so the bolt needs to be free on one end. the only nut i use is on the lower block to prevent the bolt from rotating (changing camber).
grease the threads through the upper block and leave it free. camber wont change as long as the bolt is secured to one of the blocks, and this way they can rotate slightly with suspension motion.
the bolt will still see bending, you just have rely on the material's strength to keep it alive.
top and bottom bolts can be tightened normally assuming the sleeves are well greased.
dont use the jamnut on the upper block. as the suspension cycles, the upper and lower blocks rotate slightly with respect to each other, so the bolt needs to be free on one end. the only nut i use is on the lower block to prevent the bolt from rotating (changing camber).
grease the threads through the upper block and leave it free. camber wont change as long as the bolt is secured to one of the blocks, and this way they can rotate slightly with suspension motion.
the bolt will still see bending, you just have rely on the material's strength to keep it alive.
top and bottom bolts can be tightened normally assuming the sleeves are well greased.
you need the nut on the lower block because it's not threaded so the nut is the only thing keeping it in place.
08-13-14, 11:30 PM
#4
Josh18_2k's advice:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10797409
you need the nut on the lower block because it's not threaded so the nut is the only thing keeping it in place.
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10797409
you need the nut on the lower block because it's not threaded so the nut is the only thing keeping it in place.
08-14-14, 07:01 AM
#7
making the whole bolt pivot and getting rid of the top nut fixes this.
LOF took it one step further and put lock nuts on the other bolts so he could leave them a little loose so it can pivot and he doesn't have to worry about the bolts backing out.
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08-14-14, 09:20 AM
#9
Yes. How they're supposed to work is the middle lock nut is supposed to be a little loose so the bottom part can still pivot. but the side to side motion will eventually either loosen or tighten this nut (when I took mine off the nut was super tight and the link didn't pivot)
making the whole bolt pivot and getting rid of the top nut fixes this.
LOF took it one step further and put lock nuts on the other bolts so he could leave them a little loose so it can pivot and he doesn't have to worry about the bolts backing out.
making the whole bolt pivot and getting rid of the top nut fixes this.
LOF took it one step further and put lock nuts on the other bolts so he could leave them a little loose so it can pivot and he doesn't have to worry about the bolts backing out.
So also the bottom block, you aren't full tightening the big lock nut that would secure the alignment adjustment? Just snug enough so it's not allowed to slide up and down, but can pivot left and right?
If that is the case, I might use that 2nd lock nut to double nut the alignment adjustment, no?
I wish someone made an adjustable link with spherical bearings
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