So I bought some rear camber links that are very similar to awr, mazdatrix. The top block is threaded so the height can be adjusted on the car, and a lock nut at the top to lock down that adjustment. My question is with the bottom. There is a lock nut that can tighten the bottom block to keep it from moving or sliding. I contacted the seller and he said you can leave the middle locking nut out.

Wouldn't removing that middle nut out possibley cause positive camber in certain situations?

If I used that middle locking nut to hold the bottom should I torque it down to keep it from moving or should I just screw the locking nut just enough to allow it to rotate, but not allow the bushing block to slide upwards?

I remember reading about people removing some lock nuts in these type of adjusters, but I wasn't quiet sure

 

Josh18_2k's advice:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10797409


you need the nut on the lower block because it's not threaded so the nut is the only thing keeping it in place.

 

The guy selling them said I don't need it, which got me scared.

 

Oh, ic. You let the top rotate on the threads and lock down the bottom one? I haven't installed them yet. I can see there are 2 major settings it can be installed. Which hold do you think I should start with? The setting for a shorter link?

 

I'd also get longer bolts and locknuts to hold them to the subframe and control arm. They need to pivot slightly, so with a locknut you can just tighten them enough and still allow a little movement.

 

Did you have problems with the bolts going to control arm and subframe backing out?

 

Yes. How they're supposed to work is the middle lock nut is supposed to be a little loose so the bottom part can still pivot. but the side to side motion will eventually either loosen or tighten this nut (when I took mine off the nut was super tight and the link didn't pivot)

making the whole bolt pivot and getting rid of the top nut fixes this.

LOF took it one step further and put lock nuts on the other bolts so he could leave them a little loose so it can pivot and he doesn't have to worry about the bolts backing out.

 

I was told by AWR not to use the bottom hole in the 2 hole piece. it's just there so he can use the same casting on both sides (just flipped).

I would set it up so it's the same length as the stock link using the upper hole and go from there

 

Wow! So replace factory bolts that go through the mounting holes with longer ones and lock it down with a double nut because you don't want to torque so that the camber link can move around in there?

So also the bottom block, you aren't full tightening the big lock nut that would secure the alignment adjustment? Just snug enough so it's not allowed to slide up and down, but can pivot left and right?

If that is the case, I might use that 2nd lock nut to double nut the alignment adjustment, no?

I wish someone made an adjustable link with spherical bearings

 

I have a set of discontinued MMR links for sale :-)

 

Thanks, but I'm going to work with what I have for now. In the future I'm either going to make a custom one for myself or just purchase the MAX ones if I find that their length is what I need. I doubt it though

 

No with longer bolts and locknuts it will be good.