Auxiliary port actuators and Header modification?
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Auxiliary port actuators and Header modification?
Sup dudes? I've got a 88 GXL and I've never had operational 5th/6th ports.
Previous owner put a "race exhaust" on it. True fact, thats what it said in the Craigslist ad. Lol. Turns out this exhaust was merely piping from the manifold with a y pipe and a "cherry bomb" or resonator, whatever the youngsters are calling them these days. Sounds bitchin'.
Anyways, they never hooked up the aux ports, and I would like to make them work again. I recently purchased a new to me exhaust which included a Racing Beat collected header and pre silencer, to a Corksport cat-back.
First question- Which freakin' vacuum line is for the Split air pipe?( I'm hoping that's the right word for it..) I'm looking at 2 vacuum lines coming off the backside of my LIM. One is about 3/4" diameter has a hose coming off of it headed towards my exhaust manifold. Has a plug in the hose with a hose clamp around it, super classy. I'm guessing this is the one I need to work with. The other is like 1/4" diameter, sticks out pointing towards my passenger side wheel well. Looked important, couldn't find what it hooked up to in a FSM so I threw a cap on it.
Second Question- where can I add the hook up for the actuators to my header? Seems to be a lot of misinformation and conflicting opinions when searching, so far I've read that you can add it to one of the runners like racing beat does with the un-collected header also read you can't do that with the collected header and you need to add it in at the collector. Would love to just get that information straightened out, maybe provide a thread for future reference.
Previous owner put a "race exhaust" on it. True fact, thats what it said in the Craigslist ad. Lol. Turns out this exhaust was merely piping from the manifold with a y pipe and a "cherry bomb" or resonator, whatever the youngsters are calling them these days. Sounds bitchin'.
Anyways, they never hooked up the aux ports, and I would like to make them work again. I recently purchased a new to me exhaust which included a Racing Beat collected header and pre silencer, to a Corksport cat-back.
First question- Which freakin' vacuum line is for the Split air pipe?( I'm hoping that's the right word for it..) I'm looking at 2 vacuum lines coming off the backside of my LIM. One is about 3/4" diameter has a hose coming off of it headed towards my exhaust manifold. Has a plug in the hose with a hose clamp around it, super classy. I'm guessing this is the one I need to work with. The other is like 1/4" diameter, sticks out pointing towards my passenger side wheel well. Looked important, couldn't find what it hooked up to in a FSM so I threw a cap on it.
Second Question- where can I add the hook up for the actuators to my header? Seems to be a lot of misinformation and conflicting opinions when searching, so far I've read that you can add it to one of the runners like racing beat does with the un-collected header also read you can't do that with the collected header and you need to add it in at the collector. Would love to just get that information straightened out, maybe provide a thread for future reference.
Last edited by StayRotated; 06-10-15 at 01:37 AM.
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the big hose was for the split air tube that actually had a nipple for that smaller hose you speak of.
The Tube ran from the Cat to the engine to give the actuators back pressure to operate.
Now..you want to operate your 5/6 ports?..IF the presilencer has a place to attach a split air tube on,then get another one and hook it in...done,solved..
If not you can put a small steel tube in between the collected part of the header(drill and weld in) and that will then run to the small tube to activate your ports.
The Big Hose you talk about can be capped.
The Tube ran from the Cat to the engine to give the actuators back pressure to operate.
Now..you want to operate your 5/6 ports?..IF the presilencer has a place to attach a split air tube on,then get another one and hook it in...done,solved..
If not you can put a small steel tube in between the collected part of the header(drill and weld in) and that will then run to the small tube to activate your ports.
The Big Hose you talk about can be capped.
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So I need to add a 1/4" pick up tube to the collector. Awesome, thank you! I'll update when I get the header back. Out of curiousity, should I make that metal pipe run the majority of the header runners or can I just add one approx. 5" long and run a vacuum line the remainder of the length? Obviously I'll make sure that line never comes in contact with the runner and it will be wrapped with the DEI titanium wrap to help keep the temperature around that hose down.
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I think I had about 8 inches of tube on one of my old Pacesetter setups.
You may have to get creative.
If you can find an old split air tube,use the "bell shaped part" with the nippled attachment.Run as much pipe as you can to the tube that you install and (this is where you get creative) join them together.
This way you sort of retain stock attachments at the engine.
You may have to get creative.
If you can find an old split air tube,use the "bell shaped part" with the nippled attachment.Run as much pipe as you can to the tube that you install and (this is where you get creative) join them together.
This way you sort of retain stock attachments at the engine.
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What difference would it make to put the pick up where racing beat does with the uncollected header? Would the pressure from collecting cause it too open the ports to early? Or lack of pressure causing them to open late?
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If you're interested I've got a RB presilencer with the pickup tube on it. One of the threads is a bit buggered, so I'd let it go for pretty cheap. Shipping might make it to where its not worth it though. Hit me up if you're interested.
Another route (what I did) is to use an RPM switch to trigger an air pump. That way you don't have to worry about when it opens. The only tricky thing (at least when using a super basic setup like this) is that you have to have an outlet for the air to bleed off so the port will close back after the pump is shut off. I just poked a hole in the rubber hose lol.
Another route (what I did) is to use an RPM switch to trigger an air pump. That way you don't have to worry about when it opens. The only tricky thing (at least when using a super basic setup like this) is that you have to have an outlet for the air to bleed off so the port will close back after the pump is shut off. I just poked a hole in the rubber hose lol.
#7
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I Basically followed this guide for my s4 na. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...vation-330310/
I forget what I did exactly but I don't remember tapping into the air pump line, I ran it off the air pump but didnt have to tap into the big line like they did in that right up if i remember correctly. I think I removed and blocked off whatever the airpump feed into and fed that line straight into my setup. Worked nicely and I could set whatever rmps the ports opened. I didn't want to mess with the rpm switches and whatnot.
I forget what I did exactly but I don't remember tapping into the air pump line, I ran it off the air pump but didnt have to tap into the big line like they did in that right up if i remember correctly. I think I removed and blocked off whatever the airpump feed into and fed that line straight into my setup. Worked nicely and I could set whatever rmps the ports opened. I didn't want to mess with the rpm switches and whatnot.
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Air pump has been removed, can't go that route.
I went ahead and gave Racing Beat a call and asked them about it, big ups to those guys and their customer service.
They say either position works and that they put the pick up on the pre silencer for the collected header to retain the oem connection.
I'm dropping the header off after work and will update this when I get it back and on the car.
Thanks again dudes
I went ahead and gave Racing Beat a call and asked them about it, big ups to those guys and their customer service.
They say either position works and that they put the pick up on the pre silencer for the collected header to retain the oem connection.
I'm dropping the header off after work and will update this when I get it back and on the car.
Thanks again dudes
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