sleejay

i want to run a LED to the cabin that shows when the aux ports (and vdi) are opening (2 leds really).

what i gather so far, is to take one wire of the led and run it to a switched 12v source, and the other one put where on the solenoid?

here is the info i got already:

If you wanted to look at the LEDS then you need to connect one wire of the LED to a 12v source of power. Then the other lead to the pin on the ECU that outputs the ground signal to turn the item on/off.

The six ports pin would be 3R on a series five. The VDI would be pin 2M. Pin 1A would be a good place to pick off 12vdc.

using the FSM, i located the diagram, found 2m and 3r... how would i go about doing this? run 1 wire from the led to say the cigarette lighter (switched 12v?) and the other through the firewall to which wire on the solenoid? im confused... this is really helping me learn about electronics

thanks a lot everyone

MRX_Rotary

This is what I did:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=78906

But if you're still running off the stock airpump & ACV configuration, just wire the LEDs in the positive wire of the connector.

sleejay

well the part i dont understand (and i want to learn, not just slap it together) is that the solenoid opens when it gets 0v... it gets 12v all the time, so the light would always be ON, *until* the ports open, then it would turn off...

basically, im trying to have the leds light when the ports open, and stay on while they are open.

same with vdi

HAILERS

Look at your six port solenoid and your VDI solenoid. One wire on each solenoid should have a black/white wire. That wire has 12vdc as long as the key is to ON or better.

The other wire in the solenoid comes from the ECU. The ECU puts a ground on that wire when the solenoid is activated.

Do this. Take a LED light you bought. Put one wire of the LED to the black/white wire. Put the other LED wire to the other wire in the solenoid.

Oh shucks. I just remembered those items probably won't open/shut unless your driving. So if you just rev the engine in the driveway they probably won't cause the LED to light up. This means you need to make long wire leads from the solenoid to the cabin, THEN go for a ride and watch the LED light up at approx 5000 for the VDI and approx 3850 for the six ports solenoid.

If I were you and wanted to gain confidence in this, I'd buy some wire and run a couple of wires as described above from the six port solenoid to the drivers window and into the car. This is just temporary so you can drive the car and see that the light will light when the solenoid is activated at the right rpms. Then once you see that it works run the two wires in a more sensible manner into the cabin.

I don't own a series five. But I'd bet that if you connected the LED's two wires as described above , right at the solenoid, then pulled the vacuum hose off the boost/pressure sensor and capped that hose, that you could rev the engine in the driveway and when the rpms reach 3850 it'll light up. I won't guarantee that since I don't own a series five.

Another way of doing the above without running wires from the engine bay, is to access the ECU and install one wire of the LED to the power wire of the ECU which is I THINK 1A (most likely a black/white colored wire) and then install the other wire of the LED to pin 3R of the ECU. To make the connection to those wires you either have to solder the LED wires to the 1A or 3R or buy one of those wire connectors that make a mechanical splice ( I dumbed out here and forgot what they call those things).

In either method you'll have to make the LED wires longer than what they come with. So buy some 18-22 gauge wire and some splices.

If just experimenting you could cut the insulation of the wire ends and shove the wire up the back of the connector where 1A and 3R are, making sure not to let the bare wire touch anything else.

Again I don't own a series five and don't have a series five fsm so I don't KNOW what the color of the wire are. I'm fairly sure of the power wire at the solenoids being black/white.

sar

iTrader: (1)

It is my personaly experience that if you need LEDs to show you that your aux ports or vdi are working then your aux ports and vdi must not be functioning correctly.

I can feel my aux ports open as I leave my neighborhood each morning, and this is not me flooring it, this is me shifting 800 rpm late for warmup.

When I hit 5200-5800 rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear while flooring it I can def feel the vdi.... flooring it it really does feel like 2 psi of boost

BklynRX7

Well I dont know how you would do it with the stock system but I am about to set my 5/6 port up open with a rpm switch and airpump, im just gonna wire the leds to be turned on the same time as the pump. My only problem now is finding a dc airpump small enough.

NZConvertible

Nope, it's nothing like that at all. One of the solenoid's wires gets power from the main relay and the ECU switches the other wire to ground. If you wire a 12V LED in parallel with the solenoid, it will light up whenever the solenoid is on. The easiest way to do this it to run three wires from the ECU wiring to the location of you LED's. At the ECU connect these wires to pins 1B (power from main relay), 2M (VDI) and 3R (6PI). At the LED's connect the LED's red (+) wires together and connect them to the wire from pin 1B and connect the black (-) wires to the wires from pins 2M and 3R.

Note that these lights will not tell you whether the systems are actually working properly, only when they're supposed to operate.

Syonyk

Ehm... please make sure you're using the correct dropping resistors when wiring LEDs in. 12v through a normal LED makes a very, very unhappy LED.

-=Russ=-

NZConvertible

That's why I said to use 12V LED's...

http://www1.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=SL2644

HAILERS

Radio Shack numbers are here: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

MRX_Rotary

It must be your imagination because the ECU doesn't open up the aux. ports until it is at normal operating temperature. Also, they don't open unless you are at atleast 50% throttle, which I wouldn't recommend doing during the warm-up process.

stock

.

sar

iTrader: (1)

Weird, it must be my imagination then.... i could like swear I feel it though, maybe its just me and the torque curve becoming friends.

Is it also my imagination that I can hear/ feel the vdi kick in, cause i think i can.

MRX_Rotary

The VDI opens up at any operating temperature and throttle position. Although those two factors will determine exactly when the VDI kicks in.

You think you can hear it? You must have a stock exhaust, because with my open exhaust all I hear at WOT is WAAAAAAAAAHHH! BWAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! Even with the windows up, lol.

sleejay

nz, your saying that HAILERS' approach is wrong? i have these clips that i planned on putting inbetween the harness and the solenoid, they are kind of like a splitter, one female and 2 male on the other side... in not too keen on hacking up my harness

HAILERS

I don't see him disagreeiing much. He'd use 1B for the power wire where I said 1A for the power. 1B is switched power where 1A is a constant battery power. Switched is better.

To me those clips your talking about sound ok for what your doing. Try to do it AT the ECU plug and not the engine bay. Follow what the NZ said as follows: ************************************************** *******

ECU wiring to the location of you LED's. At the ECU connect these wires to pins 1B (power from main relay), 2M (VDI) and 3R (6PI). At the LED's connect the LED's red (+) wires together and connect them to the wire from pin 1B and connect the black (-) wires to the wires from pins 2M and 3R.&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

I also helps to KNOW exactly which pin is which on the ECU.

HAILERS

I see from the above posts that the factory service manual is wrong about the operation of the VDI. The manual says it operates above 5200 rpm and only when driving. At least that's what I got from the series five eighty nine manual that's online. From page F1-80 and page F1-77, thats what I understood. I've never touched a series five though.

Usually the driving part can be overcome in the driveway by disconnecting the boost/pressure sensors vacuum hose and plugging the hose. At least that is the way it works for the secondary injectors on a series four non turbo and turbo.

sleejay

how do i PROPERLY splice into the ecu without cutting anything? i want to do this properly, and safely...

sleejay

ok i tried some stuff...

the brown (aux) solenoid has 2 wires. black with white stripe, and yellow with black stripe(?).

one wire hooked on the black/white, one hooked on the yellow/black, running to a LED in the cabin.

let the car warm up, and commenced driving. over 1/2 throttle, when i hit 3850 rpms, nothing. nothing at 4. etc etc. when i released the throttle over 3850, the light flashed brightly once.

i am using this led: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=276%2D270

its resisted so it should be fine with 12v.

jediknight7

ok, heres what i did to tell me when my six ports are opening. since i have a s4 i wanted to know when they were physically opening, and not just when they were supposedly open.

i got a wire and hooked it up to the 12v right off the battery, ran it up into the cab where the led was wired in. then i ran the ground back into the engine and esposed the end of the wire from the sheath. i then carefully placed i next to the part of the actuator that moves, with the sheath resting against it, and the exposed end extending down with a slight curve at the very end. when closed the sheath is contacting the actuator, but when they open all the way, it hits the curved wire and shorts the system to the engine block, the led turns on.

i would post pics but my camara battery has died, perhaps a little later.

i found this to work very well and at first showed me that my ports werent even opening, so i hooked them up to the air pump, and now they open at ~4500 rpm. you do need a really thick wire (10 gauge i think i used) to make sure it wont move and short itself when you dont want to, and it took a little time to tweak it to work right.

HAILERS

I've no idea what went wrong. Take you light assy and put the red wire on the positive post of the battery and the black wire of your assy on the negative post of your battery. It should light up.

This is a Light Emitting Diode. Emphasis on the diode part of the name. It will only light up if the red wire is going to the source of voltage. In this case it's the black/white wire. It won't work if you put the red wire on whatever that other wires color is.

I'd try again if the light lights up when you put it's leads to the battery post (red on the positive terminal of the battery, black on the neg post of the battery). Press on.

Oh, those were WIRE TAPS that I could not think of earlier. Radio Shack has them in abundance.