one of my actuators is ok, opened up good and all, but the other is kind of sticking and requires alot more pressure to move it, how do i clean them, and is this all i need to do to make them work? the good one was opening but the other wasnt. how do i make it work, i mean its pushable but its hard as hell, the other ones pretty easy.

 

In order to thouroughly take off the sleeves, to the Auxilliary Ports, you must take off the COMPLETE Manifold. Doing this Insures you will get optimum activation of your ports. In other words, right out of the factory.

At the very least, remove the Actuators. By doing this you could check the status of them. Depress the rod and notice their movement. While you are doing that, depress the rod and hold onto the holes which allow the Actuators to vent. Are they continuosly holding the rod down while you are blocking off the vent holes? A shot of WD-40 coupled with continous depressing should ease the Actuators to the way they are supposed to work.

The sleeves them selves are a little more work.

 

cool bro,. thanx alot, ill go the hard way, i love a challenge.

 

While your Intake Is off, why don't you Invest In some Pineappleracing sleeves? Atleast you'll feel your Auxilliary Ports opening now, of course depending on your current mods.

 

but wait, what is it that i have to remove in order to clean the ports?

 

so far i have intake, and straight pipe exhaust

 

As I said before, the comple Intake.

Upper/Lower Intake Manifold. All accesories like ACV,Actuators, Alternator, Air Pump.etc. Not hard but real time consuming

 

any specific order in which i should do this, any write up on doing it?

 

and also, air pump, alternator, but im sorry for being so ignorant, whats an acv, and by actuators you mean the aux port actuaurs right? last, can you tell me ALL the things i have to remove?

 

The way I do this.:

Start by disconnecting the negative Battery terminal than the Main Air Duct at the Air Flow Meter. Than disconnect It at the Throttle Body. Remove Alternator, Air Control Valve (located b'n the Actuators), Auxilliary Port Actuators. Disconnect all vacuum lines of the complete Manifold. You should be able to reach them by hand.

Disconnect the Coolant Lines at the Bypass Air Control Valve(Bac Valve)both ends. Disconnect the sneaky Coolant line behind the Throttle Body. Now you have to remove the bolts and nuts.

Remove the TB and Upper Intake as one unit. Do this by removing the 4nuts and one bolt that the Upper Intake coonects to the Lower Intake. All other bolts are used to stabilize your Intake In position. So simply loosen them. Optional to remove them completetly but I don't see the point In this. The Upper Intake aswell as the TB can come out. The lower Intake Is held by 6 bolts evenly dispersed. You'll find them. Remove the Lower Intake with the attaching Acutuator sleeves. Now you know what gives you those 10 extra horsies. Scrub them good by using Castrol Super Clean.

This may seem Intimidating for the first time but It Is far from hard. You'll spend half the time putting It back together.

While you have everything off replace the Air Lines, Fuel Lines, have Fuel Injectors machined cleaned, port the Manifolds and put the PR Sleeve Inserts In.

A few subtle things I missed but surely you'll pick up as you go. Oh, don't forget to bleed the air out of the Cooling System.

 

thanks alot bro, im on it.

 

Forget the Pineapple sleeves. Clean them really good and put an epoxy radius in them by using Devcon plastic steel epoxy. Same results for only $5 not $60. I've used this technique for years and never had a problem. Do not use J.B. Weld for this. Radiused sleeves only improve airflow through the port by 1% anyways so why spend so much for a horsepower when you can do it cheap. The control rods are the restriction in the airflow. If these were gone then the radius would work really well. Sorry this got off topic but I'm sick of people wasting their money for nothing.

 

ok, i removed the acv and the alternator, and the actuators, but i need you to bve specific, or anybody, about where the vacuum and coolant lines are at. thanks

 

On the Driverside, you'll see 2 coolant hoses from the Intake. One end of the hose comes out of 11'oclock (If facing front of car, Intake we are talking about). It Is shaped in a 90 degree that ends up to the Bac Valve. At the other end of the valve, you'll see a water hose that goes to the Water Pump. Right? Disconnect the hoses at the opposite ends of the Valve.

The other sneaky hose I mentioned earlier Is at the Water Thermo Valve. At the back of the TB. If you have a Manual you will see 2 vacuum lines coming out of the white valve (3 for automatic). It Is best to loosen the 2 bolts of the big metal air line for the Accelerated Warm up Valve so you can use pliers to squeeze and pull the clamp back. So three total for the Coolant Hoses.

Air lines would be tedious to mention. If you see one pull It off. There Is like 11 of them that need to be pulled off. I wouldn't worry about labeling them b'c they will retain their shape, provided you don't replace them with Silicone ones.

Oh, you have to disconnect your Accelerator/ Cruise control cables aswell. Just push down on the plunger, at the front of the Intake, to allow easier removal. Real easy. You are all set.

 

thanks bro, i found the bolt and 3 nuts to hold the intake to the lower one, but its kinda loose, it shakes, but i can't pull it off, what am i missing?

 

wow, finally done, no porting for me, but i did do the epoxy radius thing to my actuators, will jb weld hold, hope it doe,s anyway, im in the final step, how do i bleed the air out of the cooling system?

 

From the neck of the Upper Radiator hose. Cap everything up and loosen the plastic screw. Allow Coolant to seep out for a few seconds and than tighten It back up - done.

 

Remember to get gaskets!! Your old ones are sure to be shot to hell, especially if you have to work to get the manifolds off. They're pretty cheap, except for the LIM<->block one, which is ~20$, made of metal, and reusable. Any mazda dealership should have/be able to get them, as should www.mazdatrix.com if you can wait for shipping.

All in all, it's a pretty easy job. Just start at the non-engine end of the intake, and start unbolting. ***LABEL EVERYTHING***!! I didn't and it was a HUGE pain to get it back together, and I had a second car for reference! Keep your bolts seperated and labeled!! Label all vacuum nipples!

-Tesla

 

now you tell me, hehe, well i put it all back tohether how i thought, but now it won't start, what did i do? i mean i checked the plugs and it wasn't shooting spark.

 

Reconnect the Negative Terminal of your Battery.