Ok i got i hooked up on my s4 n/a, when i turn the ignition on the last rich LED comes on.But when i start the car it stay's that way,even at WOT. So i already know N/A run rich but is it really this rich? oh and my injector's and o2 are good.

 

on a narrowband it should be fluctuating between rich and lean (flashing red and green) when you are in closed loop (i.e. on the highway with cruise control on). On my nonturbo with AEM wideband it fluctuates between 14 & 15:1

 

im using the stock o2 sensor do i need something else? or a diff o2 sensor? hell maybe its just rich.

 

It will likely be running rich, and at WOT don't expect anything else. Only when cruizing or on decel should it not read rich. A narrow band O2 sensor (stock type) only registers a narrow band of the range of lean to rich, right around stoich, meaning it'll pretty much just show either full rich or full lean. If you want to know what the AFR really is you need a wideband O2 sensor and controller.

 

Yeah, but hes saying that it is always reading rich, which shouldnt happen. Under cruise you should get into the lean range, or at least not all the way rich.

 

yeah on autometer's website it say's its supposed to bounce back and forth, if its not they say it could be ur o2 sensor which mine is good. I dont know its all hooked up right,i have it grounded to the battery and the 12v is hooked into my ignition switch and the violet wire is connected to my one wire o2 sensor.

 

I have an OBX Racing A/F meter. I have it hooked to one channel of my Innovate Tech. Wideband which is programmed to output as a narrowband (0v to 1v)
The thing is all over the place within about 30 seconds of startup which is the warmup time of the heated sensor. It shows full rich during acceleration, full lean during decel and bounces full rich to full lean during cruise.

 

Put a volt meter on the lead from the O2 sensor. See what voltage you're getting, IIRC on a narrow band around 3.5-3.7 volts is stochiometric. If it stays constant on any voltage while cruising I'd be suspicious.

 

welp i guess that means my o2 sensor is out huh. i can get a new one for 20$ thankx guys.

 

um, i have a question about this. my narrow band stays about 2 leds from the end during full throttle, my o2 sensor is brand new. thats not really my question though, what i would like to know is what my narrowband is supposed to read in terms of leds and what not. im getting an afc neo dirt cheap, so id like to know what i should be looking for. ive got 750cc secondaries and an rtek 1.7 so i need to know what to look for in terms of narrow band leds. i know i should get a wideband, but i cant afford it right now. so id just like to know what im looking for. 2bars from rich into stoich. right on rich. a bar into lean...you know, whatever.

 

your letting the o2 sensor warm up before you trust the readings right? cuz they wont give you a good reading until it is fully warmed up.

 

oh yea, its about 5-10 minutes if i just let it idle in my garage until its reading correctly. otherwise, itll sit on lean and next to lean.

 

you let it idle in your garage?

 

um, yeah.










no, i dont leave the door down!

 

You'll need a wideband if you really want to make good use of an A/F gauge.

 

yes, i know this. but like i said a few posts up, i cant really afford it right now.
im looking for anwsers as to how to tell what i should be looking for as in terms of an actual AFR. i know i saw something that Karack or Icemark said, like 14.1 or 12.1, something like that, but i want to know how this number relates to a narrow bands reading so i can have my motor relativley safe UNTIL i can get a wideband. i know that narrow bands arent all that acurate, but its all i have for now. thank you for the replies so far.