I have a 90 Vert automatic that I want to convert to a 5-speed manual. I've read all the other How-to threads about doing the swap and have all the components to do the conversion with one exception... my 5-speed is from a T2, actually have 2 T2 trannies at my disposal. So my questions are, can I still perform this swap using the T2 5-speed and what adjustments would I need to make other that the obvious size in clutch/flywheel diameter?

 

TII clutch and starter
TII slave.
TII drive shaft..(If you want to KEEP the NA rear then you need a Conversion shaft.that goes from TII Trans to NA Diff)
TII Diff
TII axles.

 

All T2 components the same for all year models?

 

Unless youre going with a lightweight flywheel in the process you also need a Tii flywheel, which is series specific s4/s5.

 

The transmission needs the specific Crossmember to fit.(you can't swap s4 crossmember to an S5 Trans and vice-versa)
BUT then again the car is an Automatic and that means you need to MAKE a Crossmember to hold the trans to the car.
IF it was a Manual chassis then you would not have to do this.

and Ya.the Engine needs ITS flywheel..as the flywheels are not swappable between series.
If you go to a light flywheel KEEP the counterweight.You will need it to put the light flywheel onto the engine.

 

I know for certain one transmission is an S4 but unsure what series the other is. How can I determine the series?

 

go to MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories and look up the Cross members.
you should be able to spot the difference.
It is in the way it mounts to the Trans.
The way that the crossmember mounts to the body though(Manual body) is the same though..

BUT as I stated you have a AUTO trans Chassis,so you have to Make a mount to fit.
Placing a manual Trans in an Auto car is not "plug and play"..it requires some custom Modification.

 

I need to know the series in order to know if the flywheel that's with the transmission will work on my engine after removing the counterweight.

 

NO.
you need to match the Flywheel to the ENGINE...and the flywheel must be a Turbo flywheel for a turbo trans.
Aftermarket LIGHT flywheels will be "universal" for s4,s5 Turbo.(except for the ones NOT requiring a counterweight,like a lightened steel flywheel)
The difference is when installing that Flywheel needs the SPECIFIC Counterweight that MATCHES the Engine series to make the assembly balance out.
S4 AUTO counterweight for an S4 engine..(can't swap on s5 in for an S4,and vice versa,It will throw the whole rotating assembly out of whack))

 

Yes, that I understand, but this is my situation... I have a 90 vert automatic which should have s5 drivetrain. I have 2 T2 5-speed transmissions, one I know is from an 87 (s4) the other I'm not sure. Both T2 transmissions have flywheels, so if the other 5-speed is s5, then couldn't I just remove the counterweight from my engine and install the s5 flywheel and transmission? If so, how can I tell if it is indeed s5?

 

Anyone?

 

If you run the stock TII flywheel then remove your AUTO Counterweight.
ALL Stock Flywheels have the counterweight built INTO the Flywheel.
Besides you can plainly see that the Stock flywheel Bolts on with just the Eccentric shaft nut, That BIG *** 54mm NUT.
You can't attach the flywheel to the counterweight as the old stock Auto counterweight has 6 bolt holes to attach the old Auto flex plate to it...NOW,IF you decide to use a Light flywheel then keep the counterweight on and attach the Light flywheel to it...(IMPORTANT!!:GET A PILOT BEARING..Auto trans eccentric shafts did not use one..You NEED one when you go to a 5 speed.)
S4 Trans mount Y BRACKET attaches to the Bottom of the trans.
S5 Trans Mount Y bracket attaches to the SIDES of the trans.

I take it you didn't go to Mazdatrix website..it has PICS.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g3.htm

You can use the TII flywheel on an N/A Engine and use a TII trans.,But as I said you need the rest of the list I posted.

 

Well, I checked and both transmissions are S4 so I'll have to order an aftermarket flywheel. Thanks misterstyx69 for your help.

Now, I need to find out which clutch kit I will need to use, S4 or S5. I checked Autozone.com and they are NOT the same. The S5 clutch diameter is a few mm smaller than the S4 as well as a difference in price. Not sure if the diameter difference even matters, but I guess that's just something else to take into consideration.

 

Anyone else with info on the difference in clutch size?

 

The turbo clutches are interchangeable. If it helps you sleep better, I've used a S5 235mm clutch disk on an FD and it was fine.

 

i run an n/a diff with a turbo trans.
all that has to be done is drill the N/a flange to the turbo driveshaft pattern. the flange is the same otherwise, put plenty of miles on a driveshaft done this way, no problems.

put he flange/driveshaft on the diff and drill them thru the flange holes to make sure they line up,, rather then marking them and drilling them..

i would drill the first hole, and put a bolt thru it, then drill the next so it stays lined up.

 

I posted this in the archived thread, but couldn't just the flange from the TII be swapped to the N/A diff and use the stock unmodified drive shaft?

 

time and time again i have posted that the turbo drive shaft can be put on the flange and the holes drilled in the n/a flange, it stays centered and balanced and you need not spend any extra on a shaft.

 

So, I've got everything together and starting to install, but I'm still a little unsure about the wiring. I've seen a few different write-ups on how to wire things up, but each method seems to omit something. I want my car to function as it would if it came from Mazda with a 5 speed. My Vert also came with cruise control and there has been nothing mentioned on wiring that into the new 5 speed.
Basically, I just need to know what wires to look for in the FSM wiring diagram.


1. The wire from the ignition switch to the clutch safety switch so the car will start only when the clutch pedal is pressed. The bypass some have used IMO is UNSAFE.
2. I want everything to be wired WITHOUT cutting wires. I've gotten pretty efficient at removing wires from connectors and joining them in spare connectors acquired from salvaged cars. Makes for a much cleaner looking install.
3. I want the cruise control to function like it did from the factory. Meaning, when the clutch is pressed, the cruise control is canceled.