Apex Seals...decisions...decisions!
#26
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Originally Posted by Net Seven
Yea check out what happend to my housings with RA seals. Im rebuilding with mazda seals. https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/rotary-aviation-apex-seal-report-397712/
I'll be using stock Mazda 2mm seals from now on.
#27
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by 88IntegraLS
This same thing happened to my housings, using RA seals. It's happened to other users of the seals too.
I think I'll stick with Atkins...
#29
Rotary Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by wpgrexx
yeah I see those score marks on RA seals too. I would like to see them after a failure due to wear not tuning.
#31
Sevendreamz I hope the rebuild goes well and now that you are a advocate of doing a rebuild on a jspec. Did you tear down the motor yet and see if the rear housing was still usable? After the breakin is a great time to get a full ems system.
#32
Originally Posted by Net Seven
Sure but what difference would that make? I never broke the seals. Detonation and running lean DOES NOT cause marks on your housings. Detonation makes thing BREAK not put big *** wear marks all the way across the housing like on my housings.
Tuning issue.
-jb
#33
I was just on the phone with atkins ordering some parts and asked them about the hardness of their current apex seals. Sometime in the last year or so they started making their apex seals harder, and they are now almost as hard as Mazda seals. Just slightly softer.
He rattled off some hardness numbers that were something like 54-55 for Mazda, and the Atkins were now 52-54. I don't know what method that is (rockwell etc) but put the numbers down to show how close they are. I also asked for the hardness numbers of their old seals but he didn't remember.
RA claims their seals are 85% harder than "current aftermarket competitors (Atkins and Hurley)". Is that really a good idea?
Anyway just throwing some more info out there for people to consider when deciding on seals. I tend to think that customers engines shouldn't be the test bed for new apex seals.
He rattled off some hardness numbers that were something like 54-55 for Mazda, and the Atkins were now 52-54. I don't know what method that is (rockwell etc) but put the numbers down to show how close they are. I also asked for the hardness numbers of their old seals but he didn't remember.
RA claims their seals are 85% harder than "current aftermarket competitors (Atkins and Hurley)". Is that really a good idea?
Anyway just throwing some more info out there for people to consider when deciding on seals. I tend to think that customers engines shouldn't be the test bed for new apex seals.
#34
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Originally Posted by vintagespeed
Do you know what detonation is? I'll save you some searching: It's pre-ignition of your fuel mixture due to a "hot spot" that lights off the mixture before the spark plug can do it. The "hot spot" is the edges of your apex seal in this case. Like I said earlier, running lean causes those EGTs to go way up on an already hot rotary, the edges of your apex seal started forming a "hot spot" (you know, like a welding arc?) then as your detonation began it began chipping the molten tips of your apex seal off. All that metal circulating in the rotor housing and a serrated apex seal are what caused your score marks.
Tuning issue.
-jb
Tuning issue.
-jb
My NA, which runs nice and rich under throttle and never detonated, had those same scores on its housings after using RA seals, and the seals were NOT "serrated" or deformed in any way.
#35
Rotary Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by vintagespeed
Do you know what detonation is? I'll save you some searching: It's pre-ignition of your fuel mixture due to a "hot spot" that lights off the mixture before the spark plug can do it. The "hot spot" is the edges of your apex seal in this case. Like I said earlier, running lean causes those EGTs to go way up on an already hot rotary, the edges of your apex seal started forming a "hot spot" (you know, like a welding arc?) then as your detonation began it began chipping the molten tips of your apex seal off. All that metal circulating in the rotor housing and a serrated apex seal are what caused your score marks.
Tuning issue.
-jb
Tuning issue.
-jb
#36
controlled kaos
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yea I can vouch for 88integrals his housings are pretty scored.... runs rich on the prmix.... the apexs were still in pretty good shape.... makes ya wonder.... I've got a motor that I rebuilt s5 na got about 6000 on it... good vac excell compression... side seals are allowing a liitle too much blow by thou (clearenced tight/broke in loose) gassy oil runn prolly (80:1) amsoil... rapped daily... will soon be peeking in the exhaust ports... or replaceing the side seals... if it gets worse.... I wonder how bad my housings are.... They were perfect housings.....almost new... I really wish the "NRS" seals were more reasonable... and I'd never go back... **** they'd prolly make more... in the long run..
#37
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Originally Posted by Net Seven
Sure but what difference would that make? I never broke the seals. Detonation and running lean DOES NOT cause marks on your housings. Detonation makes thing BREAK not put big *** wear marks all the way across the housing like on my housings.
I am in agreeance with you, if thats how u spell it. The motor I am talking about has the same marks, apex seals are great, never detonated.
Last edited by wpgrexx; 02-28-05 at 10:46 PM.
#38
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by vintagespeed
Do you know what detonation is? It's pre-ignition of your fuel mixture due to a "hot spot" that lights off the mixture before the spark plug can do it.
Detonation is not the same thing as preignition.
#41
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Originally Posted by Bukwild
Sevendreamz I hope the rebuild goes well and now that you are a advocate of doing a rebuild on a jspec. Did you tear down the motor yet and see if the rear housing was still usable? After the breakin is a great time to get a full ems system.
Mike
#42
Sharp Claws
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those pics still lead me to believe the engine was run lean for an extended period, audible detonation is horrible while under boost but it can still hold together. inaudible detonation can be going on without you knowing it is going on, running lean wreaks havoc on internal parts especially in a premix setup.
the scarring looks as though the apex seal could not cool properly(the seals cools by it's contact with the rotor and contact with the rotor housing face) or was running a hot mixture.
the scarring looks as though the apex seal could not cool properly(the seals cools by it's contact with the rotor and contact with the rotor housing face) or was running a hot mixture.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-28-05 at 11:41 PM.
#43
Originally Posted by Net Seven
.....Question is do you even know how to build engines......I dont see it doing all that in 1 month of driving. Again ill say it MY SEALS WERE NOT CHIPPED. Got that?....noob.
Got any pics of the apex seals? I'm sure we'd all be interested to see them, show us all the evidence, that way we wont have to fill in the blanks.
Originally Posted by scathcart
Apparently you don't know what detonation is.
Detonation is not the same thing as preignition.
Detonation is not the same thing as preignition.
"The secondary ignition of the air/fuel mixture in the combustion space causing extreme pressures. Detonation is caused by low gasoline octane ratings, high combustion temperatures, improper combustion chamber shape, too-lean mixtures, etc. Detonation produces dangerously high loads on the engine, and if allowed to continue, will lead to engine failure. Detonation, unlike preignition, requires two simultaneous combustion fronts (fuel burning in two or more places in the combustion chamber at once); whereas preignition occurs when the fuel-air mix ignites (with single burning front) before the spark plug fires. Both preignition and detonation produce an audible "knock" or "ping," but detonation does not produce the rapid "wild pinging" noise that is typically associated with preignition. The extreme pressures of detonation can lead to preignition, but even worse the high temperatures of preignition can cause detonation."
#44
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Originally Posted by vintagespeed
Got any pics of the apex seals? I'm sure we'd all be interested to see them, show us all the evidence, that way we wont have to fill in the blanks.
#46
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
has anyone used the mazdaracing seals with used housings? i'm about to start a rebuild and i'm totally lost as to which seals to go with...
i want to use the stock mazda seals, but where do i buy them? (the newer 2piece ones) and how much do they cost?
i want to use the stock mazda seals, but where do i buy them? (the newer 2piece ones) and how much do they cost?
http://mazdatrix.com/b3.htm
#47
Carter 2.0
^^ dDub, They never quit do they?? I think Karacks thread is the first in the archives if not first then 2nd. The Title could not be clearer.
To add to the discussion, I could not find anybody locally that did not advise strongly anything other than Mazda Apex Seals. I did not go to Mazda to buy them as they were cheaper at Mazdatrix. 4 independant builders all suggested that I use the Stock Mazdas.
To add to the discussion, I could not find anybody locally that did not advise strongly anything other than Mazda Apex Seals. I did not go to Mazda to buy them as they were cheaper at Mazdatrix. 4 independant builders all suggested that I use the Stock Mazdas.
#49
Rotary Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
has anyone used the mazdaracing seals with used housings? i'm about to start a rebuild and i'm totally lost as to which seals to go with...
i want to use the stock mazda seals, but where do i buy them? (the newer 2piece ones) and how much do they cost?
i want to use the stock mazda seals, but where do i buy them? (the newer 2piece ones) and how much do they cost?
#50
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Has anyone seen the Rotary Aviaition Engine Installation and Removal Video by Bruce Turrentine? How was it. If it is just as informative as the Engine Rebuild video I certainly will invest in a copy of it.
Mike
Mike