hi,
i'm new here and wanted to know how much apex seals usually go for? is it something that you can replace yourself? thanks in advance!!

-jet-

 

You will also need a gasket set. Stock will run you 800 from Revolution Rotary

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b3.htm scroll down till you see Apex seals. You can replace them yourself if you can rebuild your motor.

 

Mazdatrix should be called Expensivetrix... Use longlife Hurley apex seals if you don't wanna spend too much on factory seals, plus these are better, last longer and require shorter break-in period. I had the chance to talk to Abel Ibarra (Flaco Racing/K&N Filters sponsored) back in May at Atco raceway in NJ and I asked him about them. He said that they are great those are the ones he used in his RX-100.

 

They do seem pretty high, especially those ceramic seals. How can they cost $300? What's so special about them?

 

here check these out. If you buy a gasket set and then just want to buy a set of apex seals these are the cheapest you can get. They are not a bad seal at all, and people have had good luck with them.

http://www.hurley-engineering.ltd.uk/

CJG

 

Ceramic = doesnt absorb heat, doesn't need lube (much), lasts damn near forever, won't get hurt by detonation, and i *think* holds more compression .

 

more compression equal more HP


i want those

 

Whoa! Super Apex Seals! Thanks for the info.

 

They all get hurt by detonation...


IMO, if you blow your seals, just get some more 2mm ones and try TUNING your car next time.

I hate when people think they can rely on "race" seals as a crutch for crap tuning.

 

Ceramic won't just snap on the first pop like steel....

In fact, a totally ceramic rotary (w/exception of stationary gears and E-shaft) would not need coolant or oil. It would run MUCH more efficiently since the lack of heat = MORE power.

You could boost at 40psi and make 600+ hp @ 12,000 rpms and still have an engine that lasts beyond 200,000 miles. Imagine the possibilities...

 

Steel doesnt snap on the first pop either.
You need to get some experience and stop thinking everything you read is true.

 

Ugh, sorry I heard it from Mazdaspeed7 (forum name). He seems to know what he's talking about....

 

Well Ive seen 7's go pinging down the track for multiple runs and not let go.

 

I've detonated probably 50-100 times and not hurt the engine Other people have detonated so hard the rear housing cracked but the apex seals were fine.

Back to the original poster... replacing them essentially means removing the engine, tearing it down completely, and re-assembling it. It's similar to replacing the rings in a piston engine except you don't have to disassemble the engine block itself to get at the rings If you've waiting until the seals have physically broken then there's probably not much left of the engine to rebuild anyway, as a broken seal USUALLY means taking out a rotor housing and a rotor. If you have access to good parts then you can try that, I've seen/heard of people putting together an engine with five good housings and two good rotors from two engines that each blew only one rotor, but you have to take the time to measure EVERYTHING to see if it's in spec.

Rebuilding an engine isn't hard but it does require patience, cleaning tools, measuring tools, time to do it right, and a place to do it.

 

thanks for all the info guys!

-jet-

 

Hurley engineering

 

My steel seals haven't snapped yet after quite a few hard pings...

 

Ceramic seals will beat the living **** out of your housing when they go. I've seen it...

 

Mmm, so steel isnt that bad?

Quick que.
Anyone tried making seals out of titanium ?????
I know it sounds a bit unusual, but i have some at home, with a thickness of 2mm

 

probably not going to take lubrication as well as the stock ones and chatter on the cold (ignition) side of the engine