Apex Seals
08-09-02, 07:27 AM
#1
Gas Guzzlin' Tire Junkie
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Apex Seals
hi,
i'm new here and wanted to know how much apex seals usually go for? is it something that you can replace yourself? thanks in advance!!
-jet-
i'm new here and wanted to know how much apex seals usually go for? is it something that you can replace yourself? thanks in advance!!
-jet-
08-09-02, 07:33 AM
#3
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http://www.mazdatrix.com/b3.htm scroll down till you see Apex seals. You can replace them yourself if you can rebuild your motor.
08-09-02, 08:51 AM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Mazdatrix should be called Expensivetrix... Use longlife Hurley apex seals if you don't wanna spend too much on factory seals, plus these are better, last longer and require shorter break-in period. I had the chance to talk to Abel Ibarra (Flaco Racing/K&N Filters sponsored) back in May at Atco raceway in NJ and I asked him about them. He said that they are great those are the ones he used in his RX-100.
08-09-02, 12:09 PM
#6
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here check these out. If you buy a gasket set and then just want to buy a set of apex seals these are the cheapest you can get. They are not a bad seal at all, and people have had good luck with them.
http://www.hurley-engineering.ltd.uk/
CJG
http://www.hurley-engineering.ltd.uk/
CJG
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08-09-02, 12:57 PM
#10
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Originally posted by dre_2ooo
Ceramic = doesnt absorb heat, doesn't need lube (much), lasts damn near forever, won't get hurt by detonation, and i *think* holds more compression
.
Ceramic = doesnt absorb heat, doesn't need lube (much), lasts damn near forever, won't get hurt by detonation, and i *think* holds more compression
.
They all get hurt by detonation...
IMO, if you blow your seals, just get some more 2mm ones and try TUNING your car next time.
I hate when people think they can rely on "race" seals as a crutch for crap tuning.
Last edited by adamlewis; 08-09-02 at 01:00 PM.
08-09-02, 12:58 PM
#11
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Ceramic won't just snap on the first pop like steel....
In fact, a totally ceramic rotary (w/exception of stationary gears and E-shaft) would not need coolant or oil. It would run MUCH more efficiently since the lack of heat = MORE power.
You could boost at 40psi and make 600+ hp @ 12,000 rpms and still have an engine that lasts beyond 200,000 miles. Imagine the possibilities...
In fact, a totally ceramic rotary (w/exception of stationary gears and E-shaft) would not need coolant or oil. It would run MUCH more efficiently since the lack of heat = MORE power.
You could boost at 40psi and make 600+ hp @ 12,000 rpms and still have an engine that lasts beyond 200,000 miles. Imagine the possibilities...
Last edited by dre_2ooo; 08-09-02 at 01:01 PM.
08-09-02, 01:01 PM
#12
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Originally posted by dre_2ooo
Ceramic won't just snap on the first pop like steel....
Ceramic won't just snap on the first pop like steel....
Steel doesnt snap on the first pop either.
You need to get some experience and stop thinking everything you read is true.
08-09-02, 01:06 PM
#14
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Originally posted by dre_2ooo
Ugh, sorry I heard it from Mazdaspeed7 (forum name). He seems to know what he's talking about....
Ugh, sorry I heard it from Mazdaspeed7 (forum name). He seems to know what he's talking about....
Well Ive seen 7's go pinging down the track for multiple runs and not let go.
08-09-02, 01:12 PM
#15
Old [Sch|F]ool
I've detonated probably 50-100 times and not hurt the engine 
Other people have detonated so hard the rear housing cracked but the apex seals were fine.
Back to the original poster... replacing them essentially means removing the engine, tearing it down completely, and re-assembling it. It's similar to replacing the rings in a piston engine except you don't have to disassemble the engine block itself to get at the rings If you've waiting until the seals have physically broken then there's probably not much left of the engine to rebuild anyway, as a broken seal USUALLY means taking out a rotor housing and a rotor. If you have access to good parts then you can try that, I've seen/heard of people putting together an engine with five good housings and two good rotors from two engines that each blew only one rotor, but you have to take the time to measure EVERYTHING to see if it's in spec.
Rebuilding an engine isn't hard but it does require patience, cleaning tools, measuring tools, time to do it right, and a place to do it.
Other people have detonated so hard the rear housing cracked but the apex seals were fine.Back to the original poster... replacing them essentially means removing the engine, tearing it down completely, and re-assembling it. It's similar to replacing the rings in a piston engine except you don't have to disassemble the engine block itself to get at the rings
If you've waiting until the seals have physically broken then there's probably not much left of the engine to rebuild anyway, as a broken seal USUALLY means taking out a rotor housing and a rotor. If you have access to good parts then you can try that, I've seen/heard of people putting together an engine with five good housings and two good rotors from two engines that each blew only one rotor, but you have to take the time to measure EVERYTHING to see if it's in spec.Rebuilding an engine isn't hard but it does require patience, cleaning tools, measuring tools, time to do it right, and a place to do it.
10-03-02, 04:30 AM
#20
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Mmm, so steel isnt that bad?
Quick que.
Anyone tried making seals out of titanium ?????
I know it sounds a bit unusual, but i have some at home, with a thickness of 2mm
Quick que.
Anyone tried making seals out of titanium ?????
I know it sounds a bit unusual, but i have some at home, with a thickness of 2mm
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