apex seal?
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apex seal?
I have an 89 gxl N/A. It runs really bad when accerlating but it will idle alright when i get it running. I did a compression check and the front rotor was good all bounces were even. The rear rotor had nothing. I put my finger by the plug hole and there was very little air being pushed out. Just wondering if all the apex seals could go out at once. or if there is something else the matter. Haven't tried the atf test yet. Just want to get some pointers
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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If you have one bad apex seal you will get two side of the rotor that don't have good compression, because one apex seal seperates two chambers. If you get one bad reading when you do a compression test, then the side seal is bad. The side seals form the side walls of each pocket and the apex seals form the front and back. The back of one is the front of the next. Its possible you have one bad apex seal an a bad side seal. Or you can have two bad apex seals which is giving you low compression on all 3 pockets.
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all 3 to go out at once, under the right circumstance.
although on one rotor i really dont think youd be able to get it to idle no matter how hard you tried.. but im not sure..
if it coughs up part of a seal, and the seal (on an n/a) cant quite make it past that pesky exhaust port baffle and it just bangs around, the other good seals will sweep by and definately leave an ugly mess.
i got proof sitting on my desk.
although on one rotor i really dont think youd be able to get it to idle no matter how hard you tried.. but im not sure..
if it coughs up part of a seal, and the seal (on an n/a) cant quite make it past that pesky exhaust port baffle and it just bangs around, the other good seals will sweep by and definately leave an ugly mess.
i got proof sitting on my desk.
#5
My 88 SE has one good rotor and nothing on the other, it idles fine a 1000, gets 14 mpg, and been driving it for 3 months daily to work and back, very reliable for half a motor. Pisses off everyone that gets behind me does a 0-60 in about 60 seconds and is very loud. Sounds like you got the same problem as me.
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Originally posted by ga88rx7
My 88 SE has one good rotor and nothing on the other, it idles fine a 1000, gets 14 mpg, and been driving it for 3 months daily to work and back, very reliable for half a motor.
My 88 SE has one good rotor and nothing on the other, it idles fine a 1000, gets 14 mpg, and been driving it for 3 months daily to work and back, very reliable for half a motor.
thats interesting..
i really would have thought one rotor with another rotor wasting the fuel and spark would have made it.. well.. not idle..
anyone ever thought of (when she drops down to 1 functional rotor) disabling the spark to that housing, and shutting off the fuel injectors?
then it would be like a 1 rotor engine with a big fat rotor-shaped counterbalance for it.
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Originally posted by Black13B
Really?
thats interesting..
i really would have thought one rotor with another rotor wasting the fuel and spark would have made it.. well.. not idle . . .
Really?
thats interesting..
i really would have thought one rotor with another rotor wasting the fuel and spark would have made it.. well.. not idle . . .
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cat?
well still.. ga88rx7 just made it seem like he was running a 1 rotor powered 2 rotor engine with no mods to make it run on the single rotor.. i would imagine that you would have to modify the fuel and spark and stuff to actually get it to hold idle and stuff..
well still.. ga88rx7 just made it seem like he was running a 1 rotor powered 2 rotor engine with no mods to make it run on the single rotor.. i would imagine that you would have to modify the fuel and spark and stuff to actually get it to hold idle and stuff..
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Originally posted by Black13B
i got proof sitting on my desk.
i got proof sitting on my desk.
To answer the rebuld Q, you'll probably need a new rear rotor & rotor housing. If you can find those used, I recommend buying a kit from rotory aviation and doing it yourself. Thats assuming you have alternate transportation and some good common sense and wrenching skills.
Don't forget to street port it.
#14
I had to adjust the idle some so it would be smoother at 1000 rpm, shakes like hell at 700. I disconnected the auxillary injector(I'm guessing) the easiest to get to on the fuel rail for that rotor, Isn't there 4 injectors? Anyway it ran a little more smoother after disconnecting. Cat didnt glow any.
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Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
project: I was looking at your pic's, where did you get that killer breaker bar next to your engine stand
project: I was looking at your pic's, where did you get that killer breaker bar next to your engine stand
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AHhhm . what do you consider SMOOTH at 1000rpm? can you put a quarter on the intake plunum and it will kinda stay ther? if not I don't think it is smooth. A well running motor with out radical port job should be able to idle so smooth you can put a coin on it and it will stay. If it starts to break dance on your motor something is not right.
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Originally posted by mazdized
AHhhm . what do you consider SMOOTH at 1000rpm? can you put a quarter on the intake plunum and it will kinda stay ther? if not I don't think it is smooth.
AHhhm . what do you consider SMOOTH at 1000rpm? can you put a quarter on the intake plunum and it will kinda stay ther? if not I don't think it is smooth.
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