Anyway To Make Stock Boost Guage Max Out At 12PSI
#1
Anyway To Make Stock Boost Guage Max Out At 12PSI
Know it sounds crazy, but on a S5, what can be done to make to stock gauge read a max of 12PSI rather than the 8.7. I just get tired of seeing the gauge max out and would like to change that if possible.
Any Ideas?
Any Ideas?
#2
I'm a boost creep...
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The stock gauge is too small and has no logical scale. If you want to boost that high you should know exactly how much boost you're running. Don't waste your time with it, get an aftermarket one like you should've done ages ago.
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I imagine something could be done with a variable resistor or similar, and if you calibrated it against an accurate boost gauge it should be fine. I couldn't tell you what to do though
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#9
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If you take apart the dash, you'll find that the motors and springs that the gauges go by are pretty much set in their ways, unless you want to start messing with the spring settings and flexibility of the parts in there, which would probably be close to impossible. What you could do, which would still be hard as hell, but more possible, is take the housing off the aftermaket gauge and throw it in the spot of the old one. Wouldn't look to nice, and it might not even fit depth wise, so you're probably going to be stuck with mounting it somewhere else.
#11
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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If the car is running 11psi, then you have an FCD, in which case the stock gauge is only going to read up to that anyways, and that is where its maxing out. it's pointless, and a waste of time.
#12
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Originally posted by Turbonut
I have an aftermarket boost gauge. The car runs right around 11PSI consistently. Just wanted the boost gauge to reflect this, regardless of the scale on the gauge.
I have an aftermarket boost gauge. The car runs right around 11PSI consistently. Just wanted the boost gauge to reflect this, regardless of the scale on the gauge.
Originally posted by Slacker7
Dat doesn't mean it's non-logical.
Dat doesn't mean it's non-logical.
Besides.. having a non-linear boost gauge is still better than no boost gauge at all.
#13
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Originally posted by Bambam7
If the car is running 11psi, then you have an FCD, in which case the stock gauge is only going to read up to that anyways, and that is where its maxing out. it's pointless, and a waste of time.
If the car is running 11psi, then you have an FCD, in which case the stock gauge is only going to read up to that anyways, and that is where its maxing out. it's pointless, and a waste of time.
#15
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I have no idea what your point is.
The gauge is linear, it's the scale that's not. This is what makes it impossible to get an accurate reading from. It was put there mainly for marketing reasons. The fact that pretty much any increase in boost sends it off the top of the scale means an aftermarket boost gauge is the first thing that should be added when modifiying.
I do agree that you need an aftermarket gauge if you are above stock but saying that the stock gauge is useless is careless. Mazda afterall states that you should stop the car immediately if the boost levels go above the top mark. I've never seen that happen before but then again this is a 15 year old car.
#16
If the car is running 11psi, then you have an FCD, in which case the stock gauge is only going to read up to that anyways, and that is where its maxing out. it's pointless, and a waste of time.
To me it's not pointless, nor a waste of time, but just thought one of the electrical guru's on here may be able to suggest a shunt or something similar that would reduce the signal to the stock gauge accordingly.
Looks as though I'll do some experimenting.
I do agree that you need an aftermarket gauge if you are above stock but saying that the stock gauge is useless is careless. Mazda afterall states that you should stop the car immediately if the boost levels go above the top mark. I've never seen that happen before but then again this is a 15 year old car.
Thanks again
#17
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Then you must have an aftermarket/reprogrammed ECU, otherwise you would have hit fuel cut a while ago.
Something sounds screwed here....
Something sounds screwed here....
#18
RX-7 Bad Ass
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The output signal from the boost sensor splits in the ECU harness up above the ECU - one wire goes to the ECU, the other to the instrument cluster.
If you use a "normal" FCD that plugs into the boost sensor, the gauge will max out at +40 - that's where fuel cut is. If you have an FCD that's wired into the ECU, the boost gauge will read "right".
You can also do the same thing with a boost sensor FCD by tapping a wire into the output signal from the boost sensor (before the FCD) and running it to the gauge, which wouldn't be hard. That signal is also handy for running a Super-AFC off the boost sensor instead of the TPS.
With my old HKS FCON that had a boost sensor at the ECU, the stock gauge went to the second "O" in "Boost". Great for comedy value .
The stock boost gauge is far from worthless. Yes, it's worthless as far as seeing how much boost you're running, but if I would have paid attention when mine stopped working (just sat at zero, due to the vacuum hose to the sensor popping off) I wouldn't have blown my first engine. The boost sensor controls ignition advance and retard, and it's a good thing to know that it's working right.
On a bone stock car, it's one way to tell if you have a clogged cat, boost leak, clogged air filter, etc.
Dale
If you use a "normal" FCD that plugs into the boost sensor, the gauge will max out at +40 - that's where fuel cut is. If you have an FCD that's wired into the ECU, the boost gauge will read "right".
You can also do the same thing with a boost sensor FCD by tapping a wire into the output signal from the boost sensor (before the FCD) and running it to the gauge, which wouldn't be hard. That signal is also handy for running a Super-AFC off the boost sensor instead of the TPS.
With my old HKS FCON that had a boost sensor at the ECU, the stock gauge went to the second "O" in "Boost". Great for comedy value .
The stock boost gauge is far from worthless. Yes, it's worthless as far as seeing how much boost you're running, but if I would have paid attention when mine stopped working (just sat at zero, due to the vacuum hose to the sensor popping off) I wouldn't have blown my first engine. The boost sensor controls ignition advance and retard, and it's a good thing to know that it's working right.
On a bone stock car, it's one way to tell if you have a clogged cat, boost leak, clogged air filter, etc.
Dale
#19
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Originally posted by Slacker7
How do you know the gauge is linear? How do you know the gauge is not? Have you done tests on it?
How do you know the gauge is linear? How do you know the gauge is not? Have you done tests on it?
I do agree that you need an aftermarket gauge if you are above stock but saying that the stock gauge is useless is careless.
As Dale mentioned, about the only thing the stock gauge is good for on a modified car is monitoring the health of the MAP sensor. For that it needs no pointless modifications.
I suppose with a lot of effert you could recalibrate the gauge and draw on a new scale, but then all you'd end up with is a very small gauge with one third of the resolution of a typical aftermarket gauge (90deg sweep vs. 270deg sweep).
#20
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As Dale mentioned, about the only thing the stock gauge is good for on a modified car is monitoring the health of the MAP sensor. For that it needs no pointless modifications.
I suppose with a lot of effert you could recalibrate the gauge and draw on a new scale, but then all you'd end up with is a very small gauge with one third of the resolution of a typical aftermarket gauge (90deg sweep vs. 270deg sweep).
#22
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This question is a bit off of the topic, but why did Mazda put the boost readings in millimeters of mercury? Maybe because the US is the only dumbass nation to not use the metric scale? Why not just put it in PSI rather than mmHg?
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