anything I can use for a simple expand tool
#1
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anything I can use for a simple expand tool
anything I can use for a simple expand tool for brake pad replacement or is there an easy way to do this or should I go hunting for the right tool?
#2
Carter 2.0
Take a big screwdriver and stick it in between the rotor and the pad and pry it open. ALL THE WAY open because your new pads are going to need all the room.
Don't take the caliper off first.
Don't take the caliper off first.
#3
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by Tiers
anything I can use for a simple expand tool for brake pad replacement or is there an easy way to do this or should I go hunting for the right tool?
single piston front brakes: remove pads, rebolt caliper in place. Pry against brake rotor with a screw driver.
rear brakes: screw clockwise with needle-nose pliers.
Two notes: 1. Put your lug nuts back on if you don;t have the rotor screws installed.
2. make sure you open your hood and drain some brake fluid from the master cylinder so that the piston compression does not cause the m/c to overflow and pour brake fluid onto your engine bay paint.
#5
Carter 2.0
Oh yea, Check the B/F level so it doesn't over flow.........what..... like I ever top it off when it gets low????? When I put new pads on my fluid level rises almost to where it should be. Lazy lazy lazy me.
I am just kidding about that, Scath is right on.
I am just kidding about that, Scath is right on.
#6
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by jhammons01
Oh yea, Check the B/F level so it doesn't over flow.........what..... like I ever top it off when it gets low????? When I put new pads on my fluid level rises almost to where it should be. Lazy lazy lazy me.
I am just kidding about that, Scath is right on.
I am just kidding about that, Scath is right on.
However, I change my brake fluid every 6 months but do not change brake pads that opften, so this doesn't really work for me. For those less diligent on there brake fluid changes, though....
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#10
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Actually, Autozone DOES have the tool for rotating the rear caliper piston back into position. It's a little cube-shaped thing with dimples on it (of varying sizes for different cars) with a 3/8" square drive hole in it. Sells for under $10.
#11
Carter 2.0
I've been fixing my brakes for 25 years.......actually I don't believe I have ever paid for a brake job. I have a favorite Craftsman screwdriver that, (yes, I bought it when I was 13) pry's the pads open......seems like everytime. I have not done the Rex's yet but I am 99% sure that they are like all the other pads out in the market. You old guys correct me if I am wrong. the only caveot is e-brake chingaderos on different models.
Scathcart likes to take the pads off first. I just stick the screwdriver in between the rotor and the old pad a pry it open. Remember....your taking the pad off and will most likeley be thrown away. so don't worry about scaring the face of the old pad (unless by some chance you bought the old pads and you kept the actuall receipt......and the company that made the pads are still in business HA!!! fat chance) Once the caliper is open all the way, you loosen one side bolt and take the other bolt out.....rotate the caliper on the remaining loosened bolt, pull out the old pads put the new ones on and replace the bolts. Unless you scarred your rotor that's all there is to it. It will take you longer to jack the car and remove the wheel than replacing the pad. All the jap cars are like this. The old getto sled American cars of the 70s and earlier where more of a PITA.
Scathcart likes to take the pads off first. I just stick the screwdriver in between the rotor and the old pad a pry it open. Remember....your taking the pad off and will most likeley be thrown away. so don't worry about scaring the face of the old pad (unless by some chance you bought the old pads and you kept the actuall receipt......and the company that made the pads are still in business HA!!! fat chance) Once the caliper is open all the way, you loosen one side bolt and take the other bolt out.....rotate the caliper on the remaining loosened bolt, pull out the old pads put the new ones on and replace the bolts. Unless you scarred your rotor that's all there is to it. It will take you longer to jack the car and remove the wheel than replacing the pad. All the jap cars are like this. The old getto sled American cars of the 70s and earlier where more of a PITA.
#12
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
That's why they gave you a tire tool. Except it won't work on the rears to screw the piston inwards. That requires needle nose pliers.
Thanks for the tips guys.
I as well have done many brake jobs in my 42 years. Never done the rex though so thought there might be a few tips .
somewhere I had read of an expansion tool tyoe thing that worked well but cant remember what it was.
Will just do the pry and pray hehe only concern was gouging rotor faces but will be careful.
Terry
#13
Carter 2.0
Originally Posted by jhammons01
I've been fixing my brakes for 25 years.......actually I don't believe I have ever paid for a brake job. I have a favorite Craftsman screwdriver that, (yes, I bought it when I was 13) pry's the pads open......seems like everytime. I have not done the Rex's yet but I am 99% sure that they are like all the other pads out in the market.
I guess you learn somthing new everyday. For those that are lost, the rear piston has to be screwed back in to open it up for new pads. You take the caliper loose and screw it open after it is off not before as I 'professed' b4 I knew better.
I'll try to be better in the future please don't ban me this one time....i'll be good.
#14
Edmond Dantes
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on the rear piston using needle-nose plyers can be a MAJOR pain. renting/borrowing the proper rear brake caliper retraction tool from you local auto parts store makes life glorious when doing the rear brakes. if yer gonna do it, might as well do it right.
good luck nd have fun.
good luck nd have fun.
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