Im planning on probably doing this to my na so i dont have to worry about my exhaust backpressure ... Using a summit rpm switch that someone on the forum will be selling me... its adustable fro 4000rpms and up to open the ports, someone told me i could just use a vaccum solenoid (for on off) , insteadof using the more expensive electronic 3 way valve... list your setups...

heres a link to some good info on doing this mod - http://www.idahorotary.com/6portsolution.htm

 

I use the Summit rpm switch.......a spare solenoid like you find on the solenoid rack.....some electrical wire......a plastic barbed tee, .and, sorry about this, the airpump.

I believe the range of the Summit rpm switch is more than four grand though.

I find this arrangement dependable.

 

so the ports open even later then 4000 ? and the rpm switch range is what ? is this good or bad , what rpm if its not 4000rpm

 

this has been covered, infact, its in the archive.

 

You can save time and money by actuating the ports off the ACV air dump hose. The pressure is perfect to open the ports at 3800, it's absolutly reliable, and it costs less then $10 to do. Hope that helps.

 

Your car already has electronic solenoid valves on it btw.. just steal one of them. Won't cost a thing.

 

dump hose ... ? would that make dirty air go into my intake , or is the dump hose clean air ?

 

i had a non turbo and i did the actuators header pipes all the way back i did every thing i could to make my na faster, i came to realise was i wasted a lot of money,so i decided to go turbo, it was a lot easier than i thought ,i did not have tha much experiance,but boy i learned a lot, i bought a jspec motor from canada with the tranny for 500 bucks ,we bought 3 he gave us a deal ,and he was to lazy to separate the tranny , so we got the tranny to ,one engine had a light steal flywheel on it ,an added bonus ,i used my non turbo harness i got a 318 boost sensor , t2 mas air metre,you can use the non turbo one ,a 3 inch down pipe,it was so easy we did 3 cars some people will say its a waste of time but trust me the power you get is worth it , what im trying to tell you is your going to spend all kinds of money to get your na fast, their nothing wrong with that ,im only giving you my opinion, every body on the forum may feel diferently about this issue,im just saying give a thougt i resect every bodys veiw on this , i put the rear end from a t2, my buddy has his na rear with a mazdatrix drive shaft ,hes doing 13.2 ,in the 1/4 with just 3 inch piping 6 puck with a centre force pressure plate running 10psi, im just giving you some thing to think about ,fo more info email me at verly6565@yahoo.com i have no problem helping anyone on a converion when u sea how easy it is you will understand.

 

The air doesn't go to your intake, it goes to your port actuators, and the air is clean: it goes from your air pump > ACV > ACV air domp hose. The air your using is simply the air that isn't going your cats, exaust manifold, or your anti-afterburn valve.

 

I understand its costing me alot more money to make my n/a faster... but think of it this way... my gas is alot cheaper, my insurance is alot cheaper, and i dont have to worry about popping an apex seal from a turbo (fuel cut or boost creep)...and im sure my na engine will last longer than a turbo...

I do plan on doing a turbo II conversion to my parts car someday, but for now the cheaper route is to have non-turbo. The prices i were getting for a complete conversion with engine/tranny swap/ engine rebuild, rims, drivetrain , hood, wiring etc ... its costing me probably who knows ... 4000, maybe 5000 i have no idea... but in the case of using my stock n/a stuff i have everything i need... probably costing me half as much money, sure ill half half the amount of rwhp but i assure you its not going to be slow like youre trying to make it sound....especially with the mods ill be getting-

Rotary resurrection rebuild and streetporting w/fd springs, racing beat lightweight flywheel, dual friction clutch, new motor mounts/tranny mounts, all necessary vaccuum hoses / oils etc , full header back exhaust (2.5" piping to 3" tipor 3.5" tip) and later on an safc and other upgrades

I should be getting at the minimum 165 rwhp (with the safc, about 200hp at the flywheel)

this is by no means slow to me, especially considering my last car was a nissan 240sx sohc , rated at 145 hp stock and governed to 120mph

i mean it may be costing me alot of money, but solid aftermarket performance is never cheap any way you look at it...

For a tII a brand new turbo and front mount intercooler for a turbo can run you over $1000 bucks , especially with piping...

 

what if you remove your emissions do you jus keep the air pump on to make it work this way

 

I really don't buy into the idea that 3800 rpm are the ideal rpm for the auxillary ports to open. Sorry 'bout that. I used the Relief Solenoids electrical signal to activate mine for some time and found it unsatisfactory.

 

People are still using my setup? I should state, as you've mentioned before, that the Air Compressor (AC) I used does not have a long and healthy life. Use my layout but a different AC and you should have no problems.

 

We should get a mod to open the thread for a few edits. Infact theres several threads in there that need to be updated desperately...

 

Actually I'm probably wrong on that. The series five fsm does say 3850 rpm to turn them on. I set mine to somewhere around 42/4500 rpm. I've frankly forgotten where. And ain't a gonna look.

 

on my old dyno sheets you could see the torque start to drop and blip back up after the ports and vdi opened. you could probably find the optimal opening spot through dynoing with them closed and fiddling with the opening points.

 

just curious will an EGR valve off of some other car work like at 3 way air solinoid???

 

Except for our cars already have a 3 way solenoid, several infact... Hell I'll sell you one... otherplaces are probably raping $30 or some ****. What will you offer?

 

1300ccTuner:
I've gutted the cats, removed EGR, but I don't see any point in removing the ACV/Air pump because the minimal (sp?) weight savings is far less important to me than a dependable, working 6PI system.
Hope that answers your question.

 

here is what i did seeing i have a S4 and no air pump. i used a MSD Rpm switch (becuase the summit ones ramp volt) then have that wired to the motor from a 200psi electric pump modified to max out at like 5psi. so the air line from the pump then connects to the act. and all is good. i got all of important information from the rather dust covered search feature of this forum. put i did learn you need to paint the motor otherwise it will spot rust overnight. seeing 2nd gens like to get water into the engine bay....

...but here is my review on it.

+ worked very well and was in a sense, tuneable seeing you can alter when they open
- loud as hell once the motor came on. even in the engine bay you can here it on the freeway at 100 over the stereo.
+ relatively cheap. most expensive piece is the rpm switch