I need one of these manifolds. Higgi you have another?

 

Mine is barely finished and it will take few weeks or months until we will be able to say its working good....Before that it makes no sense to talk about making other one....

 

yeah I see. when it makes sense I will buy the first one from you.

 

update

http://rx7cz.net/photos/workshop71/

 

Yeah, that's a neat design, but I could probably eat a bag of cookies before the exaust traveled from rotor housing to turbine. But, I've nothing to compare with it.

 

LOL

Its actually working pretty cool....ask RETed

 

Think about this...

The big piston exhaust builders shoot for a 20" min from exhaust port to turbo or NA collector.

The rotary is still burning the combustion charge when the exhaust port opens.

In theory, you want the exhaust gases to hit the turbo at it's full expansion - i.e. completed burn - so it can hit the turbine wheel with the most gas volume.  This is completely ignoring gas temps, though.

hIGGI's turbo exhaust manifold isn't even close to 20".

We blew up the engine on that turbo exhaust manifold, and a side advantage to that design is that it probably saved his EXPENSIVE GT3540 turbine wheel, as the apex seal piece went to the WG side of the turbo exhaust manifold.  Most engines fail under heavy load with the turbo boosting.  How many other turbo exhaust manifold designs can boast preventing engine bits from flying into your turbo?


-Ted

 

Any thoughts on this design?

 

That looks expensive!


-Ted

 

Yeah, we have sold a few and the customers have had good results. List on them is $1200 with 2 35mm wastegates so it isn't cheap, but each one takes about 8 hours to make.

I am running a version of it (a bit modified) on my TII with a GT45 turbo, but it sits a bit more forward to clear the strut tower and engine.

 

I was gonna say, it doesnt look like that thing would clear the FC or FD frame rail/strut tower. That appears to be either an RE or REW motor or some hybrid thereof, with a FC front cover, so I can't tell what car it's meant to go in. Why did you need to sit the turbo out so far from the LIM?

 

It is an RE that I built for my partners FC. The manifold was built in the car, so the fitment isn't an issue. It is an illusion because the LIM is so close to the block, it makes it look like it is far out. Plus, we wanted the turbo as far from the intakes as possible to help with heat.

On my car, the turbo sits underneath the upper radiator hose I used a Heatshield Products "Stealth Turbo Kit" turbo blanket to keep the heat down.

 

Not to go too far off topic, but this comment goes to one of my long standing questions about the different types of motors -- RE, REW, Hydrid, Cosmo, etc(?). Can someone produce a short list of the engines and their differences? Thanks in advance.

 

Well, that sounds well and good, but I can tell you from experience...everybody is about writeups, but there are only a few of us with knowledge enough to complete them. And those of us are also the busiest people here, with the least amount of time to sit down and do such a thing. Furthermore, you get nothing in return for your time. Finally, the masses just ignore your writeups and ask their dumb questions anyway. You can spoon feed information to the public and they'll spit it back at you.

Just look at me...I took weeks to make a big na--t2 conversion writeup, and people still post daily on this board asking the how's and why's. IT makes you feel like you're beating your head against the wall, so i don't bother much anymore.

 

Uhh...okay.

Anyone else? Icemark? I'm just looking for a cheat sheet...

RE =

REW =

Cosmo =

Hybrid/Combo Type(s)

But nobody get yer panties in a bunch over it.

 

UHm...cosmo = re.

Re = bigger intake ports than REW
rew and re = ports slanted upward at an angle
FC and prior = ports come out perpendicular

 

Thanks RR! That's a good start.

Don't want to jack this cool thread so I started another one:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=317447

I would like to hear more about...

1. HIGGI and RETed blowing up the engine.

2. Dave Gibson's manifold.

 

blowing up one engine twice in 8 days....**** happens...

 

It was Ted's fault, wasn't it?

 

For some reason, We can't respond to archived threads! So maybe it just LOOKS like the fantastic wealth of writeups avalable (To whitch many users are no doubt very greatful) are being ignored :O *Twighlight zone music*

(For a split second, I tried imagining how Icemark feels whenever a question is asked that the FAQ addresses)

 

Sure, I was the one punching the keys.
The first time is blew up, it was due to a nasty bug in the Haltech E11 that shuts off the fuel injection and ignition output channels while adjusting ANYTHING.  We had just figured out how the stupid Haltech E11 boost control works, and it totally slipped my mind to NOT touch any of the maps while under boost - it let go at around 5,000RPM at around 11 - 12psi of boost.

The second time it was no warning - EGT was fine, AFR was fine.  About the only thing that can make the 13B spit a seal out without any hints on the EGT or AFR was improper ignition timing control (I've seen it before).  We checked ignition timing upon return and found two nasty things.  There could've been excessive RFI being emitted by the Splitfire spark plugs wires (there were two nasty cuts in the silicone insulation that we easily found - there could be more)which caused the leadings to fire at "TDC" and about 40-degreees retarded revving in neutral (trailing split timing anyone?), and there's a possibility that the home trigger was wired backwards...which induces the ignition timing to be firing 15 to 20 degrees retarded under load when it let go.  It was running around 4,500RPM at 15 - 16psi of boost when we found out the motor got hurt.

I will be verifying the Haltech E11 is NOT at fault, as I will be testing this unit to see if we can blame the Haltech E11 or not.

Sorry for the thread jack...


-Ted

 

Well, sorry about the misadventures with the engine but damn, that is a great post, Ted. Thanks.