Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I have a set of mustang GT rims on my S4, and before you say anything, I left off the center cap with the mustang emblem, and yes, they look awesome. Anyway I'm trying to find someone else running the same wheels. I know people do because I've seen pics. Anyways, are you guys using the stock lugnuts with them or something else? I ask because after reinstalling my subframe, I torqued the my cheap *** tuner lock lugs down, and a mile down the road they are coming loose. Like enough to turn by hand. I jacked the rear end up and the rims have a lot of wobble. They are not out of round and I literally just had the balance checked, about a half hour ago, and it's perfect. I think it's the lug nuts because the ones I have are very skinny and they just barely bite the edges of the holes. Anyone have thoughts or input?

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Get new/longer lug nuts? throw away tuner nuts.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I had a full set of tuner nuts lying around, vs. having only a handful or so of stock ones... so that's how that happened.

Anyway, is your opinion based on any experience, or what?

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Factory Mazda lugnuts work on my 2003 Ford Mustang GT (16x8) wheels...

Held up several hundred miles and several autocross sessions.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

These ones?



*edit

No, google is your friend...

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

I have used these style lug nuts on my cars with the Mustang wheels for 3 years.

http://www.tulipcitywheels.com/tcwst...t_detail&p=351

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

My opinion is that you cant go wrong with stock lug nuts. Ive seen short stock luggers that wont work with my donut so i found some stock but longer lug nuts laying around that i keep just incase i need to use my spare. If its bottoming out before it can get tight onto the wheel then you need longer lug nuts hands down.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

It's not that they're bottoming out, it's that they're just bigger around than the hole in the rim. I used them on my old Konigs for years with no issues. So it seems that indeed is the problem. I need to get some stockies. Does autozone or advance sell suitable replacements?

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Ah i understand what you mean now. I would say grind the edges but f-in with something that is ment to hold the wheels on the car wouldnt be a wise idea.


If you want OEM lug nuts i would just place a WTB ad in the parts section. Then make sure they are the long version not the short ones. Im sure someone will hook you up for DIRT CHEAP. If you cant wait for oem luggers then i guess you could check out autozone and ect but i bet there going to be more money and mostly tuner style luggers...from what ive seen

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Well they have a bin in the back filled with all the OEM style lugs, short, long, whatever. Problem is they only stock 5-6 at a time. It's meant for like if you strip one or lose one or two. I'm going to need 20, lol. Then they'd have to order them which will take a week. I'm probably better off buying those ET style lugs.

Nismo, do those lugs work without any modification? I have heard that the rim has to be specially drilled to accept those. Also, do you have some kinda dust cap or something in the back? Or did you just spray it black.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Nope, no modification, they go through the rim 1/4" so longer studs are not needed. I do not have a dust cap on the rear, I just cover the threads of the half shaft with grease, never once had a problem getting them off.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Hmmm, I have a set of these wheels, black looks pretty good on them, but I'm planning something a bit more vibrant.

I haven't mounted them yet, but I got applied racing tech aluminum lug nuts and ARP wheel studs to put them on. Total cost was around $100 for lugs/studs and you don't have to worry about rust.

gkarmadi

iTrader: (20)

I am running cobra (17x9 + 24mm) @ the rear. I have installed extended lugs and using an open end lug nuts (forgot the brand).

oakback

I'm not sure what stock nuts are, since mine may have been changed at some point. I have the GT wheels, and use the chrome cap nuts that's been pictured above. They're tapered where they meet the rim, so they tighten it down very well.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Ok.. this topic of this thread's gonna have to change. I'm still having problems after buying a full set of stock replacement lugs. I jacked up the rear of the car, with both wheels off the ground. I put the rim on, and tightened the lugs. Then I started the car, put it in 5th and slowly take it up to about 60mph. Around 45 or so, I get a slight vibration. At 60 it's hell. The wheel is visibly wobbling. Now, like I said before, the rims check out. My dad works at NTB, and I took them up there yesterday to have the balance and round checked. Perfect.

Recently I removed the entire rear end to replace the pivot bushings. I got everything back in without much problem, and everything bolted up, and double checked. I don't know what could possibly be causing the vibration. I'll post a video here in a sec, as soon as I get it shrunk down a bit.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

If you watch the lines on the tire, it's easier to make out. Test is from 45mph to 75mph.


Yea it's only a small wobble, but it's causing the whole car to shake.

Small things to note, may or may not have anything to do with it.

The screws that hold the disc on are missing on the featured side, and are present on the other side, been that way for years.

The discs are pretty bad, but I don't know if enough to cause a wobble.

Everything was disconnected (half shafts, control arms, subframe) during the bushing install. What could I have done here to mess something up?

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Too late to edit.

Some things I have done to try and narrow down the problem:

Removed both tires and brought it up to 60mph. No vibration.
Removed one or the other tire and brought it up to 60mph. Vibration
Removed brake pads from both calipers and reinstalled wheels. Vibration

I'm going to try rotating the tires next to see if the tuner lugs damaged the holes in the rims (They are V-ed out, but I don't know if thats the problem or not)

gawdodirt

Did you remove the drive shaft, and if you did, did you mark it for RE-installation in the same location bolt?

I used the stock LUG NUTS, but installed 10mm longer STUDS. Dorman had a huge selection of hardened STUDS.

GD

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Heres another update. I may have found the problem but I need a second opinion. I was under the car checking for problems, loose bolts, etc. I checked driveshaft play, and there was none. I grabbed a hold of the halfshaft to pull myself out from under the car, and definitely felt it move. I grabbed it and wiggled, and there is a fair amount of play in the driver's side. Actually it is the stub shaft moving,going into the differential, not the half-shaft itself. Passenger side not too much. Normal or no?

The differential seal on the driver's side was bad, and I knew about it for a while. The car sat for a few months while I did all the work / acquired parts. There was always a small spot of oil on the ground below it. When I took the car for a test drive the other day, I did not check the oil at all. Then the vibration started. I did just check to see if there was oil in it and a fair amount gushed out. So... i dunno.

I did remove the driveshaft when doing my engine swap (that happened first, then the subframe stuff.) I did not mark the driveshaft, because I have removed and installed the driveshaft without marking it a hundred times in the past and never had a problem with vibration.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I'm really getting desperate here. I would love for someone to chime in with an opinion. Here is what all I have done, and the results of each.

Removed both tires and brought it up to 60mph. No vibration.
Removed one or the other tire and brought it up to 60mph. Vibration
Removed brake pads from both calipers and reinstalled wheels. Vibration
Re-aligned driveshaft (3 times, every way it can be bolted on)
- This seemed to improve it slightly, but it might have just been in my head, as I was hoping to god it worked.

Another note, the vibration seems to get worse under acceleration, and decreased on deceleration. It would be steady if I held the gas at a certain RPM/MPH. The vibration is apparent at about 45mph and continues from there. Very little vibration, if any is felt under that speed.

There is a loud metallic clang when the wheels come to a stop from spinning.

I'm going to try in the suspension forums and see whats up there.

Also, any mods feel that changing the title of this thread is warranted? It now encompasses so much more than just a lugnut question.

oakback

Have you tried rotating the wheels to see if that makes a difference?

nofords

iTrader: (9)

to me, the way you described the vibrations, it is a half shaft problem. check the outer CV's for play or clicking on bad angles.

Another issue could be rear bearings, but wouldn't have the "clang" when they stop.

The only other thing i can think of is that there is something behind the rotor. When you torque down the wheels, it make it wobble. I had this on the front of my race car once. A flake of rust got behind causing a wobble as shown in the video. I took the rotors off, wire wheeled them and haven't had an issue since.

one last thing to check is the taper requirement on your rims. There is more than one angle that nuts can be replaced at and the "tuner lugs" you have for your konig's may not be the same angle for a factory rim. Usually 60 deg, however, there are others.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Yes, no difference.

Also, I'm pretty sure I said this, but I went out and bought a new set of wider, acorn shaped lugs. They fit the wheel perfectly, but did nothing for vibration. On closer inspection of the tire wobble, it is more of an up and down motion than in and out.

I also did mention something about the halfshafts. Where the half shaft bolts to the stub shaft, there is play, but it is actually the stub shaft moving. It's got a fair amount of play in it.

Something stuck behind the rotor makes sense too. I had the control arms sitting in the garage for forever, and on one side I have no screws holding the rotor in, so it just flops around. There is a sharp piece of metal sticking out of the screw hole, but I didn't think much of it. I mean it's not sticking out much at all.

I'll go out and check this stuff out, and report back.