hey guys i need to rig a push button up and im not sure how to do it, i need a list of parts and how to do it, thanks alot guys.

 

the only thing i am working off of is the schematic for the ignition circuit. keep in mind i have not done it yet, but I'm working on it.

as far as parts go. you'll need:
a switch
a 30A relay (i think) you may need a larger one.

then it's just a matter of splicing into the right set of wires under the steering column.

hope that helps... probably not,

TR

 

how much is a 30 amp relay?

 

under $10 from an autozone.

the reason for the relay is so you don't burn out the switch.

a regular momentary switch that you would use as a starter button would fry if you tried to use it against a starter circuit. that's where the relay comes in. they are built for higher current loads.

TR

 

Here's the schematic:


So, you'd want to tap off of the main black wire to one switch leg of your switch(the feed wire going into the ignition switch, it will be a heavier gauge, with a single spade connection), and then either tee into the black wire with the red stripe (for key and pushbutton start), or disconnect the black wire/red stripe from the ignition switch, and connect the other switch leg from your switch to it (push button only start).

You do not need a relay, the starter has one built in.

 

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...ive_Power.html
30A relay, $2.40. Add $6 shipping and you got $8.40. Takes about 3 days to ship if you're in California.
They also have a variety of switches/buttons for ~$0.50 to $2.00 each. Makes me wonder why you'd want to burn out an expensive relay to save a cheap switch. Just get multiple switches or buttons and replace it when it finally fails.
They have a whole bunch of other electronics/electricals too. I love them.

 

You DON'T need a relay!

 

$2.40 is expensive? i know you dont need one but if you were to burn out 2 a switch and have to buy a new one wouldnt that equate to about $4 anyway?

 

a relay is useless in that. a proper push button will work fine.

just did this on a friends metro cause he broke his lock cylinder.

Id recommend still having a key tho, if you want just a straight push button no key no nothing (aka hello someone steal me) then maybe youd need a relay. but if you keep the key and add a push button to crank it its safer and 100x easier to wire, you just snip a wire and insert it between the pieces basically.

kevin.

 

Its not about expensive. Its about installing a useless part.
When was the last time anyone installed a hp-rated mag contact on their residential light switch? Never, that's retarded, because the light switch contacts are rated for the inrush and interrupting current of the load. This is also true for the push button switch. Their is already a stock relay in place, and adding an extra set of contacts will do nothing, except use a relay to control a relay. Practically any 12 VDC push button rated for an amp or so will handle the load of the stock relay coil.

 

you need to set up a fuel pump switch if you plan on doing a straight push button. i would recommend hiding them both and not telling anyone about them.

BTW why do you need to rig up a push button?

 

Just find the clutch interlock switch. Pull its two wire plug apart. Run a wire from the Black/Green wire to your push switch.

Find a source of 12v and run it to the other side of the push switch. Done

All you doing when you push the switch is pull the starter solenoid in. The large amount of power to spin a starter comes from the large wire on the starter solenoid that runs directly to the battery.

The weak link in a starter problem where the starter solenoid goes click...click each time you go to Start with the key................is the ignition switch. The circuit is so corrupted in the ignnition switch that it will not even carry enough current to pull in the starter solenoid.

So with your push switch, your using a different souce of power to pull the starter solenoid in. Your eliminating the problematic circuit inside the ignition switch.

 

having a push start, you still need to have the key in the ignition to start the car right ?

Or does this mean that you dont need the key in the ignition to start the car at all ?

 

Depends on where you pull the +12v to the pushbutton from.
You can set it up either way.

 

Here is how the idiot that had the car before me did it!!

 

Like DOKKER said, it depends.

But on the whole you have to turn the ignition switch to at least ON. That act puts power to the ECU/Main relay/coils etc. NOT to Start but to ON with the ignition switch.

THEN push your push button to turn the engine over.

Are you installing a push button because your getting just click, click when you put your ignition key to Start???? Curious.

NOTE: If I installed a puch button switch, I can GUARANTEE you I'd NEVER take the power from the ignition switch. That ignition switch is the problem with cars going click,click, click, start. That's a general statement but True. Worn out ignition switches that won't carry the current that the starter solenoid needs. So it goes....click, click, click and finally starts.

 

i get click click with my ingintion key then i take out re insert and repeat till it crnaks but oince it cranks it starts

how do i fix click click..

it occurs about every other weekend

 

I'd say it's a loose battery connection. Clean the terminals/connectors.

 

I'd ASSUME that one would have cleaned/repaired the battery terminals...........cleaned the battery power and battery ground cables at the starter solenoid.........cleaned and made sure the small blade connector on the starter solenoid was good...................made sure the problem wan not related to the Interlock switch on top of the clutch.

Then blame the ignition switch itself. I assume a lot. Been there, done that, and it is/was the ignition switch on two of my cars.

Installed a common/ordinary auto relay near the Starter Cut Relay connector in the engine bay. Used the Black/Green wire from the ignition switch to pull the relay in and used a fused source of battery power directly from the fuse box in the engine bay to send 12vdc to the starter solenoid. The gnd for the relay is just a wire with gnd lug on it to a nut on the Trail coil assy.

The idea is that the pwr from the ignition switch is good enough to pull in the new relay each and every time , but couldn't carry the current for the starter, and what was needed was a uncorrupted source of 12vdc to the starter solenoid. Works fine. I tried all the other things plus new starer solnenoids (good for about a day max).

 

anyone competent enough and want to do this on my fc for some $$$ in DFW? See thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/south-rx-7-forum-34/need-electrical-gauge-savvy-person-who-wants-some-%24%24-622908/

 

if i were you, i would definately include some type of security on this

 

To make a push button start, you'd need to keep the key in the cylinder anyway to disengage the column lock. In S2000's you still need the key in the ignition to drive it, it just has a fancy button.

 

Still looking for someone in DFW to do this, anyone???? I have a Lonagcre switch panel intead, just needs to be wired up.

In response to the replies...

security: this is 100% race car, does not even have side windows. I can pull the kill switch key and quick detach steering wheel - then they still have to get off the trailer. I leave the key in the ignition now anyways.

steering wheel lock: that's already been disabled and removed - that's required by SCCA

 

all you need is a toggle switch and the pushbutton start i have the same setup on my 87 rx7 and works great i put the pushbutton start in the same place were the ignition switch was and the toggle on the other side ill try to send pics

 

guys, the reason i have to is because my whole key ignition got really screwed up and it broke, inside it, so im riggin up a push button. but i kinda already have a solution , just no time to finish it